DaveMorris

I feel a drive comin g on. I have two weeks on the continent (with seven) in near future - but would propose a meet somewhere when I get back and we can have a good talk about things (and I can dig out all my old notes on trumpet length and cross sectional area requirements for hoses and air flow velocioty etc). The trumpets are standard length as provided by Jenvey - though I can't find the docs which tell me the actual length. Your description of the air flow is 100% spot on - the two entrance holes for the flexi hose need to be at the rear of the airbox to keep them inside the chasis rails/bonnet line .. .. and I have them at opposing angles to ensure turbulent airflow as the air enters the box, and also as it passes the temp sensor (which is located on back plate of the airbox). Airbox is Alu construction. Could be done much better and to smaller tolerance of hole in bonnet, but as I was doing all fabrication pre re-build a lot of measurements were "guesstimates". It is not perfect - but that is what winter 2015-16 was set aside for :-) Dave

It is about on the middle - but if you put it on the wrong way round tehn teh ball end will rub against the inside edge of the tyre. It did on mine anyway. (or have I got the wrong end of the link ) Dave

Oliver - I went for "as large as reasonably practicable" whilst still being able to turn right without o/s wheel hitting end of airbox. Front face of airbox is >recommended distance by Jenvey and others from end of trumpets. It is, as in life, not perfect - but as a first pass creation it looks "passable" and does the job. RR plot shows that it has some negative effect, but not massive. and I can take some more "airbox specific" piccies if required. Might try a foam filter one day, when next on a RR, to see what effect teh airbox really does have Dave

I can't test/check at the moment - but I can safely say I've never seen 90psi on my XE engine. By "elevated revs" when cold - what sort of revs are you talking about ? Also - what oil is he using n the engine ? Others much more knowledgeable will be along soon, Dave

I moved from twin 45's to the Jenvey set-up in my re-build. Unfortunately as the rebuild took so darn long I can't really tell much about any changes in performance carb-vs-injected, though there are no flat spots, no hesitancy and much easier starting/tickover when cold now it's injected. Even with an airbox it manages to keep a degree of its intake noise - though as this car has been built more with touring rather than sprinting inmind I am happier that it is a little quieter. From your sig I take it that you live somewhere near the bottom end of the M40 ? If so a little too far for me to "pop by" for you to inspect mine. D

Alternatively - when you you do get the seats out, get someone to tack-weld the bolts in place, D

Strangely enough they cam from a stairlift manufacturer There are plenty of hits on the web if you do a search. (T-bolt or T-slot bolt) Potential suppliers in my area are BML Hayley, FWB etc but I would assume there are a few local suppliers to you from whom you could get small numbers Dave (Another option is touse a normal bolt but lock it in place with a hall-thichness nut - the downside of this is that the seat sits on 4 points as opposed to the full length of the runner. Not that this is any different to using the plastic spacer washers that are supplied with the Tillet seats to adjust seating angle).

OR, slide the seat all the way back - which should expose the top of the bolt/hex-head so that you can get a spanmner/allen-key on it. Sliding all the way forward does not expose the rear bolts - but by then you know what they are and whether to push a spanner or allen key towards the head of them. I purchased some "T" headed bolts which lock in place in the channel. Dave

The cam was/is nitrided. The Newman Cam ate the first set of cam followers within the first 15 miles due to some "incompatability issues" but since then has been fine. Cost was more than the 244 equivalent. If you are fitting a 244, I assume you have engine internals installed with ablity to rev to 8000 or so. Re the Newman - I'm impressed with the cam and the smoother power delivery. The 244, which I had in a previous engine incarnation, seemed to "come on cam" a bit more than the Newman one. I can send the power "curve" through it you want it. Dave.

Whatever. Life's too short, D

SM25T - just caught back up on this thread. I don't own/fit a full hood, just a half hood. Wife currently trying to persuade me not to put poppers in the rE-Bag as I only use it once in a blue moon (and normally on another car) - so might not be able to get any pictures of that, or even see how worthwhile/practical it might have been. Some good ideas and options shown above, Dave

JUst a thought - but before pulling out and taking to pieces what might be a perfectly good switch, take a multimeter and see if there is 12v to the fog lamp. Switch may be providing 12v to the fog light - and all issues at that end of the car. It's the only end that you have currently taken to pieces. If you don't own, or have acces to, a multimeter - I'd recomment buying a cheap digital one. If you don't know how to use one then get a friend to show you. Invaluable things. Dave

Oliver, I moved from the 234/244/264 range of cams to a nitrided Newman cam a few years ago (and f.w.i.w. have just completed a conversion to throttle bodies/injection). I think it was a bespoke cam - not one from their catalogue range (though I could be talking rubbish on that last part). The one I am using has quite high tappet acceleration - and so I also went for a roller-rocker set-up. I had a degree of head work carried out also and the results of the above + accralites and couple of other tweaks have been quite successful. I can give you chapter and verse if you want Dave.

IF you get stuck I've got a frot hub bearing sitting in the garage - call round and have it for free, Dave

REmember - don't fit the coil wioth the connections at the top (i.e. in vertical position) they don't like it. 45degrees or laying down is better (so I have been told), Dave

I asssume you can disconnect the throttle cable from this butterfly - just to check that you've not got sticktion in the cable run. Dave

(Potentially) stupid question - on the MBE does the fuel pump colntrol from the ECU provide a route to earth or a 12v supply when "active". I found to my cost that the Emerald provides route to earth (when I was expecting a positive supply), Dave (p.s. - I have a 967EF sitting in my utility room if you find you end up doubting the reliability of yours)

I would vote for it being the coil also. (Just out of interest - what orientation do you have the coil. Vertical, horizontal or at 45degres ?) D

I'd agree with first poster - likely fed from a permanent live as opposed to switched live via Ignition. Paul - this is REALLY EASY to check if you have a multimeter. .. .. .. .. .. .. then I wrote down how easy it was, then realised that if you were serious in your reply to SM25T you wouldn't understand my explanation. So I deleted it, Ask a friend :-) D

Bri, I assume you have power to both positive supply wires on the ECU (switched and permanent). and that there is not a problem with the itermittant supply on the permanent wire. Just clutching at straws really asI don't know much about these things (though just back from an interesting day in Watton) D

I'm on a bit of a roll with the shed/garage clear out . .. so decided one of the cars has to go (I am now working from home and I can't justify the number of cars we have in the drive). As per title - December 24th 2007 registered Renaultsport Clio in Red. Covered 55k miles, f.s.h. with Renault then my local man, 6CD changer, digital heater control, retractable mirrors. Other than that - usual spec for this car. No dings, minor scrape on n/s/f/ rim. I have a couple of pictures but need to take more (when it stops raining). If needed I can supply direct or will post up to Dropbox (assuming that people can see them on there). Not for sale elsewhere yet. Looking to sell here and save the hassle of canvassers etc. £4800

Wife getting naggy that this is sitting in Living Room cocooned in bubble-wrap. Sensible offer likely to be accepted, Dave

2 x Ital PCD Rims still available. Sensible offer accepted Dave

I can send you the plans for the roll bar mounted rack if you want. they occasionally come up for sale. Dave.

How many people above have questioned why C7HJE has ability to isolate his middle break light. I may be dreaming but I am sure I read his (her ?) blog all the way to where it mentioned the light was not "E" marked and so being able to turn it off for MOT was a practical solution. I didn't get the impression that it was only turned on for special occasions or when driving in town, but was left on all year. I may be wrong Edited to add - I may be a little biased as I have bracketed for one in same position that fixes onto the two middle poppers on the rear bulkhead (though I'm gonna have to attach some velcro to the bottom of it so that it can stick onto top of my rE-bag if I go touring).