Jathro

A 'convoy' followed by one more about 5 mins later.. ...hopefully not heading towards the Air Balloon from Seven Springs judging by the 3-mile queue we passed!!

It's not a leak, it's a rear chassis corrosion prevention system!

Thanks for the replies. Sounds fairly straight forward although I would anticipate a little trouble removing the crank blanking cover! With my cars the words 'drift','prise' and 'ease' normally follow the Haynes definitions and end up involving hours of intense swearing and increasingly larger hammers...!

Help!! I need to fit an oil catch tank to a 1600 xflow. Trawling back through the years’ posts, it looks like I have one of the later engine set-ups; the crank breathing hole under the carbs and behind the fuel pump is blanked off and there is no rocker breathing other than through the oil filler cap. How I interpret POBC suggests removing the crank blanking plug and fitting the Burton jam-fit adapter, running a pipe from here to an inlet drilled into rocker cover and another pipe from an outlet in the rocker cover to a catch tank. Can anyone help with a few numpty questions.... Have I understood this correct? How do I remove the crank blanking plug without too many tears? Does anyone have suitable part numbers/source for the rocker inlet and outlets? Does anyone have any pictures of this set-up? Cheers...

All finished apart from the tidying: Did have a slight hiccup though, following the 7faq wiring, the switch has Z and W terminals: 7faq The switch now has 1 and 2 terminals as below: here I assumed* that Z would equate to 1 as I followed the template also in the faq. You can tell when this is wrong as the car will turn over but not start, the smoke from the resistor is also a bit of a give away that something is amiss . Swapped these as per the second link and all OK. Was I just being daft or would an adjustment to the faq be an option?? ta *I know, never assume etc etc...

Hopefully finishing it off tonight. On the bright side, if the wire does get hot, I could remove the heater.... cheers

Mine is a 95 also. The 2 original cables are both 5mm overall diameter (inc insulation). The supplied cable to extend to the switch is 3mm overall. It justn't seem right to me to extend these 2 with the single unless the originals were considerable overkill as you say. ta

I'm just fitting a Battery Master Switch using the kit from CC. I've disconnected the 2 Brown cables (+ 1 thin brown cable for the imobiliser(?)) from the +ve battery terminal and need to connect these to the very much thinner brown cable included in the kit. Firstly, is it OK to use this much thinner cable to extend the 2 original cables to the switch, using the 1/2 inch ring terminal to connect to the switch, which seems more suitable for larger diameter cable?? If so, what is the best way to connect these all together - solder?? cheers

BM sent.! cheers

Has anyone used this on an FIA roll bar. Supposed to be for 40-50mm but does the 2mm down to the 38mm roll bar make much of a difference?? cheers

Probably was me if face looked like this.. 😬. A bit chilly round the ears today!

T'was me! Making the most of the weather and a day off, looping round and through FoD. First spotted - Ta!

I'm just down the road in Churchdown. The Green/Yellow may have been me though!

Cheers Elie, The springs I have now are 8 inch compressed on the shock with the adjuster at the bottom! I think they may be about 10 inch uncompressed from the struggle I had to get them on. Looks like I may have to disassemble and measure properly to see what I have got.... Do you suggest 9 inch at 250lb as well???

Just changed the standard Spax on the front of a '95 LA to adjustable heights (Spax again). Should the same springs be used as they were not the easiest to get back on to the adjustables, even with them wound down to the bottom. Now doesn't seen a great deal of adjustmant is available Doing a search seemed to suggest that the spring could be easily placed on the shock when fully wound down - definitely not the case in my recent experience..... ta