k80rum

A friend and ex-member is looking for the following if anyone can help: new/good: clutch arm friction plate pressure plate new: CRB all for K-series dry sump fitment, following a catastrophic failure of the old clutch arm which took most of the clutch assembly with it ☹️ If anyone can help, please let me know and I'll put you in touch. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 29 Jun 2009 19:17:51

For what it's worth Eugene, I got my black CC exhaust guard to fit both the large Raceco exhaust and now the Raceline Duratec exhaust by increasing it's diameter. I did this quite unscientifically by putting it on a wooden surface, placing some cloth over the guard and applying some kneeling pressure on it. Seemed to work quite well and it now fits like a charm. I did use quite a careful approach but it isn't too flimsy so it was quite easy to increase it in small increments until got it right Hope your daughter's leg heals soon and it hasn't put her off travelling in the car! ☹️ Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 27 Jun 2009 20:42:36

Not Mobil1 I know, but I was looking for some Comma 5w50 recently and I noticed SARD Racing have it at a very competitive price (£21.45 for 5L compared to £31.31 from *cough* another website...) Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 27 Jun 2009 18:41:02

Hi Ian, whereabouts is your alternator mounted, inlet or exhaust side? I just fitted my engine into an S3 chassis and it slid in a treat without the alternator (I hadn't deliberately removed it though, I just haven't bought it yet ) From some builds I've read people seem to have been advised to remove it before fitted. That's for CC supplied engines which will have an inlet-mounted alternator. Out of interest, are you fitting the engine and box as one unit or have you put the gearbox in first? This seems to be another recommendation from CC although I found it much easier to put everything in as one unit. Best of luck with it Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 24 Jun 2009 20:32:50

Hi Andy. That's really kind of you, I'd certainly like to take you up on your kind offer Whenever you get a chance would be great. The car's off the road off the road at the moment anyway, I'm in no great rush. I'm using them to mount sensors and am bolting them to the diff casing in fact. Not what they were designed for but they're just right for the job. I've had a go at making my own bracket for the other side but it doesn't locate as well as these, so it moves a bit Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Thanks chaps Bri, thanks for the micro-switch suggestion. It'd be just the ticket for an H-pattern but this box would be sequential so unfortunately it'd be a non-starter ☹️ Regin, I'd been doing a bit more digging; the comparator circuit seems like the perfect choice. If I get a measurement from the pot with the box in reverse, then use a variable resistor on the other input of the comparator chip to fine tune a reference to compare against. Finally I can use a relay on the output to switch the lights. It'd be even better if I made a version with Vlow and Vhigh references to create a window against which I check the gear signal. Great Ian - that'd certainly save some time. I think my Emerald is out of spare input/outputs I could use but I'll check. Thanks for the idea. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Thanks both, I did have my doubts about it Jon, I wonder if a toggle switch be acceptable from an MOT point of view? I'll check up. I'd still be keen on solving it with a circuit (CC have managed it on the new R500s) but if it comes down to it I'd probably favour removing the reversing light altogether. I just know I'd leave/knock a manual switch on at some point.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 22 Jun 2009 17:00:25

If.... I had a gearbox with a gear position potentiometer but no facility to fit a reversing switch, in a car I wanted to use a reversing light, would the following be a solution? 12v supply into a relay relay output connected to reversing light relay ground connected to gear signal wire (the gear potentiometer wiper) IF (and it's a bit of an if, I realise) the gear pot had a +5v reference supply and a ground and when the box was in reverse, the gear pot signal was 0v I think this would mean the gear pot acted as a switched ground for the relay, effectively operating it when the potentiometer was at 0v (reverse) Would I need any additional circuitry to safeguard pot/relay when the gear potentiometer was not at 0v (ie, in a gear other than reverse)? This all relies on reverse being zero volts of course. if it's not, I suppose I'd need to use a voltage comparator to give me an output when the gear signal matched whatever I predetermined reverse to be.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Those ones in your links are what I have Finnie (the LC-1). The ebay listing looks pretty decent. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Hi Steve. Just to add to the Duratec thoughts; Adam Quilter went the route you're considering and used a donor engine. His write up was in Low Flying a while back but it's all on his website here and is an excellent read I also went the donor route as I wanted to have a go at a) building my own engine, b) keeping costs down. I've really enjoyed it but dependant on how much time and money you have to throw at it will likely make an impact on how long the conversion takes. Mine's taken just on a year now but my time has been extremely limited and I decided to sort out quite a few other things on the car while it was off the road. There are engines a-plenty to be had in Essex, at quite reasonable prices - I bought mine as a complete unit from a Fiesta ST with 6k on the clock for 600ukp. 6 months later I picked up a second engine for 250 less ancillaries that has only done 1k miles. As everyone says, it's the cost of ancillaries that tend to mount up (especially since you'll need an ECU if you're not already running an Emerald). Minor points are that you'll also need to be prepared to cut the sideskin for the exhaust and to find a way to patch up the K series hole on the other side. You can obviously offset some of your costs by selling on the K/parts you won't be using and if you're lucky can keep them low by sourcing parts from other Duratec owners that might be upgrading If you're likely to want to stick around the 200bhp for a bit, the Zetec may be the better choice, particularly as they're attractively priced now there's a new 'engine of the moment'. If you're likely to want to upgrade further later on, the Duratec may be more of an investment. As an aside, from what I've read, the Duratec has a well-spec'd water pump that does an extremely good job of shifting the water so I wonder how important a triple-pass radiator would be. On the other hand, if you will run wet sump, you may need to turn your attention to keeping the oil cool, especially if you are doing track days. I've used the R500 split-radiator for just this reason. It's available from CC if you ring them (it's not listed on the website) and costs about the same as a triple-pass. Keep us all posted with whatever you decide to do! Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 21 Jun 2009 07:15:14

I haven't broken or lost yours John, honest! 😬 It's worked so well that I'm after another for the other side. Problem is, CC tell me they're now an obsolete item, despite being listed on the website 🙆🏻 Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

One of the rear mounted ones like this Thanks for looking Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Hi David, I know how you're feeling - There aren't many parts I mind getting to grips with but the fuel tank is top of the list. It was with a great deal of trepidation that I tested my uprated fuel pump today and I hated every minute of it! Working outdoors and physically disconnecting the battery during the work are good precautions. I'd imagine there'll seem to be a fair amount of fuel stored in the banjo hose. I'd be tempted to disconnect it from the filter end first with a receptacle underneath because you'll be emptying the tank/filter hose as well as the filter and whatever head of fuel it's pipework is holding. I don't *think* the tank should need draining because the banjo outlet is linked directly to the pump so the contents are held at bay. I say think because I've always drained the tank before working on it as a matter of course. Hopefully someone can give you a more definitive answer. If you fancy draining the tank, I've found it quick and easy to disconnect the pump at the connector, run some tube from the hardline in the engine bay to a container, take the two pump-side wires out of the connector and hook them up via a switch to a battery. I can then remotely flip the switch and wait for the tank to empty. Remember when refitting the banjo line, to sit it between the two locating fingers on the tank plate. This keeps it in position and lessens the strain on the tank when the banjo bolt is done up. Best of luck with it Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 18 Jun 2009 21:20:35

Agreed. Some days seem to be such a catalogue of trouble you have to wonder why you bother. On others, everything goes swimmingly, you make lots of progress and are happy with the results. There must be some universal law. As an aside, I've run without a diff breather for 8 years to no ill effect. The little plastic outlet snapped off as I gave the tube too much encouragement so I left it off and never got around to sorting it out

A fellow Blatchatter (who is not unknown for his sossies ) also said to me that he believed quite an improvement might be seen if you could better exhaust the transmission tunnel heat. Perhaps a periscope-type ducting that sits against the rear bulkhead, between the seats , with a scoop just above the prop/diff and an exit over the top of the bulkhead chassis rail would also help. It'd certainly be interesting to see what if any effect it had on the temperatures in the tunnel and engine bay. I'm a RIF tunnel top/mesh gaiters convert . I can certainly feel a fair amount of warm air escaping through the gaiters when I'm on the move so am pretty confident they help matters. Edited by - k80rum on 11 Jun 2009 18:07:53

You'll find a (clean ) file is just the right size for locking the cams too Rich, which might be handy. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 29 May 2009 17:17:48

Might be worth checking out this thread Rich (here) Phil and Guy posted some pics of their very neat arangements and Timbo mentioned he has fabricated a bracket too. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

No problem Jorgen . Given you've got the throttle mechanism on the same side as the pedal box I reckon I'd do the same. If you can find some good mounting points on the head - perhaps a couple of the throttle body mounting bolts themselves, I think a solid bracket would be just the ticket. Best of luck with it! Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Hi Jorgen. My view for whatever it's worth, having just bought one: On my K series where the pedal box was on the same side as the throttle bodies, I went for the Bernard Scouse kit instead of the pricey Jenvey one. Had absolutely no issues and think it's better value for money. On my Duratec, where the throttle bodies were on the opposite side to the throttle bodies, I opted to run the cable around the front of the engine rather than coming in over the top. Because of this I went for the Jenvey linkage. It's nicely made and whilst it's pretty pricey, it does the job well and being a once-off purchase might make it a *bit* easier to justify. On balance then, I'd say the Jenvey kit is worth it if the cable isn't coming in from over the top, where a simple bracket could be used. They do come up on ebay from time to time too, which makes for a more cost-effective purchase. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Non-tensioner (exhaust side) pulley sought.. Thanks for looking. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Thanks Sean, agreed, that looks more like the Titan-type after-market flywheels (although that one may well be manufactured by Cosworth) I took a peek on their website but couldn't see this new one listed yet. I've emailed an American supplier who are advertising it, to try and find out some more details. I'll post whatever I find out. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

I've just noticed Cosworth appear to have launched a flywheel for the Duratec. Very tasty looking it is too although I've yet to find a mention of what it weighs pic here Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Glad to hear it's resolved John. For what it's worth, I test-fitted a recent G60 in my (1999) chassis yesterday. I'm using a CTG propshaft but it's standard length. The fit was perfect with the box in the rear holes and there is about 5mm clearance between the casing and the UJ knuckle so I can only conclude the casing on your early box is subtly different or the UJs on your vintage propshaft are large enough to be a problem. Anyway, every cloud and all that...now you'll have a bling propshaft. It has to be said, the tolerance between box and chassis rails/panels is chuffing small.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 9 May 2009 16:56:22

Ah... got it. ☹️ It sounds as though, alternatively, the mounting points are further forward than expected, which would be peculiar given that it's supposed to be a direct swap for a type-9. According to my technical drawings of the G60, the mount is 371.4mm/14.624" and even says 'as per type 9 gearbox'. Given an overall casing length of 595.2mm/23.435", that leaves the length of the tail as 223.8mm/8.811" if you've got your old box to compare against.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 5 May 2009 16:25:17

Hi John, so its been relegated from doorstop duty and getting fitted at long last eh?! I'm sorry to read about this speed-bump in the progress. Gary Sharville (Garibaldi) has retro-fitted on so he may be worth getting in touch with. Arch may also be able to shed some light as they've done a few in different chassis vintages now by all accounts. I'm having difficulty visualising what's happening; you mention the box won't go back the necessary amount for the mount to meet up with the chassis plate holes, yet the front uj is interfering with the gearbox tail (which sounds as if the splined shaft is buried too deep in the tail because I thought the rear of the casing was flat in terms of projections) is that the case? I'll be interested to hear the outcome. Best of luck Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project