k80rum

I'd favour taking a sabbatical to Dubai for a year, then when you come return everywhere should seem cooler 😬 On an only slighty more serious note, I've lined my pedal box/transmission tunnel with adhesive gold heat reflector which I'm hoping should prevent the panels themselves from warming up. It doesn't address the issue of warm air being forced from the engine bay, down the transmission tunnel and over the diff though. I've not measured it, but I would suppose there's a small amount of negative pressure in the tunnel area which helps to evacuate the warm air, rather than much positive pressure forcing it out. I was considering giving John Howe's idea a try if it became necessary, which (if it works) would be neat and practical; it's effectively a square 'periscope' with a collecting duct at the back of the transmission tunnel, over the prop, rising up against the rear bulkhead between the seats and exiting just over the top bulkhead rail. This additional negative pressure might help provide an escape route for the air in the tunnel. Like many other suggestions, it only works at speed. I suppose if you still have the heater space, an interesting project could be to cannibalise a CC heater to remove the matrix and use a fan to suck in some 'outside' air from a duct and dump it into the cabin. With the Emerald K3 and a user-defined output pin you could even get it to switch on or off automatically based on air temperature (already measured by the ECU) Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 17 Aug 2009 08:16:55

Thanks for the information Ammo, it's good to hear (and no surprise of course!) to hear you've been collaborating. The heads themselves do sound very tasty. I know of one sevener that has some very well spec'd head with which he intends to build a monster engine and I must say if the price is similar, which I imagine it might be it's well out of my reach (the head in question was 3-4 times the cost of an UltimateP one) Price aside, I'd certainly consider one for the supercharged project when I eventually get around to it. If it ever gets off the ground my intention was for a modest, low-boost setup to keep it as usable as possible, rather than something bonkers that makes some impressive figures but it certainly makes sense to have a decent head if you're forcing more air through it in any case, especially if it also suits a n/a motor too Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Cheers folks It does sound as though the reverse light wiring was changed Paul, mine's definitely the later switched live rather than switched earth type. It used to switch through the plunger-style affair in the side of the CC 6-speeder. My new box has no provision for one of these unfortunately but I can provoke the light to come on by applying 12v directly to pin 85 and simulating the supply from the Gear indicator. I'll certainly do as you suggest Jon with some extra-resistance and see if that helps matters. I must admit I was surprised the gear indicator uses a powered output rather than a switched earth as that's what ECUs seem to do.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Crikey Edited to add: (Kudos to Neil (Dobuy) for spotting it - he posted the link originally on the turbosport forum) Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 12 Aug 2009 19:42:17

Ooo, thanks Tbird. I hadn't spotted that. A quick of check the coil resistance of the relays I'm using shows the diode-equipped relay has a coil resistance of 127 ohms and the non-diode-equipped one has a resistance of 129 ohms. Adding the measured 6 ohms of earth wiring resistance, I make that a current draw of about 89 milliamps at 12v, just under 100mA at 13v. I think I'll need to send the unit back for repair in any case (Geartronics very kindly did it FoC last time as a gesture of goodwill, but I think it's pretty certain it's caused by the relay). I might ask Geartronics to supply the relay this time just in case. Perhaps there's something odd about these smaller relays. I'll check the output voltage with the relay removed and run the earth directly to the battery. There's absolutely nothing about the high current circuit that could affect the low-current side is there? Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Thanks Bob 😶‍🌫️ The pic on the side of the relay shows the +ve of the diode on pin 86. I'll ask Geartronics the question about what it's designed to drive. Perhaps it's a peculiarity around these little mico-relays and i should use a more conventional one. I'll do some digging Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Thanks Ian That's answered my next question I think. The relay I was using originally did have a reversed diode across the coil. I wasn't sure what this meant so I've also tried one without. Sounds as though the 'plus diode' version is the one to continue using as a safeguard. Just measured the resistance from pin 86 to a chassis ground and it's 0.6 ohms which doesn't look too suspicious. Very strange.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

My car seems to have a strange electrical issue (which is entirely my own fault since I decided to tackle the wiring..so I probably deserve it) I'm using a Geartronics gear indicator (it's the same as the Quaife one) which puts out 12v when the box is in reverse. This is very useful to me because I've no reverse switch, so I want to use the output to switch on the reversing light. The way I've wired it up is that the 12v output from the gear indicator goes into pin 85 of a 25a micro-relay. Pin 86 of the micro-relay is connected to Earth. a fused +12v is connected to pin 30 of the micro-relay The original power supply connection on the reversing light is connected to micro-relay pin 87 The gear indicator works well but the reversing light didn't come on when I selected reverse. Further investigation showed the gear indicator wasn't outputting 12v when in reverse. Discussions with Geartronics led to me sending the unit back because it was decided the output transistor had probably blown. While it was away, I double checked the connections in case I'd made a mistake which I don't seem to have. I was in a rush to try the display when it came back so didn't remove the relay and the same thing has happened. I can only conclude that *something* must be causing the output transistor to blow but can't figure out what that could be.. Any suggestions as to what I could try, to figure it out? It should effectively be pushing 12v from the gear indicator, through the relay to earth. I've certainly got continuity on the earth pin of the relay but haven't checked the resistance yet. Could it be something like that causing too much current to blow the transistor? (my electronics knowledge is pretty rusty ) Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

I've retro-fitted the R500 split rad to my series 3. I can get you some dimensions from it this evening if you still need them Ian. I needed to mill away a small amount of the side ducting on it to clear my freestyle front suspension but otherwise it wasn't too bad. I'm not sure if/how it'd clear a front arb since I'm not running one. I bought the rad mountings from CC as well. I had to change the rad angle since the position the brackets put it in for the R500 will foul a S3 nosecone. There are some pics in one of the diary entries on my website if that helps. I can't comment on how effective I've found the cooling as I've not run the car in anger yet. The cooling fins for the water rad are horizontal rather than vertical as they were on my old rad. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 11 Aug 2009 18:07:46

yep You undo the upper right and left diff backplate bolts and use them to locate the bottom of the braces. The top, 'bucketed' part of the braces go through the innermost harness bolts butting up against the underneath of the bar the harnesses mount to Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 10 Aug 2009 20:24:38

I've got one more question Oily, if you don't mind.. I've changed my original value of 9 for this site to 5. Do I leave it at this when I go on to set the fuelling for the site using the coloured bar? If so, I guess it's worth leaving it at this value? The car should be getting mapped on a rolling road soon so I'm just after a decent idle to get some miles on it at the moment Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

You really are getting your hands dirty Willie! Best of luck with it.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Ah-ha, thanks Mickrick Andy's stuff *is* lovely 🥰 I'm planning on getting one of his gorgeous tanks when I next take mine out.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 3 Aug 2009 19:59:43

Thanks Oily 😶‍🌫️ Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

I need to have a go at balancing a new set of Jenvey DTHTBs because my manometer is showing cylinders 1 & 2 pulling a fair bit less air than 3 and 4. I've got the excellent DVA setup instructions to hand and have been reading through them to make sure I understand the process. There's a part I'm not sure about which says How do I do this? I'll be turning off 'idle control through ignition advance' as suggested and the coolant and air corrections won't be adjusting the base map once it's up to temperature, which leaves (I think) just the ignition map itself which will either 14 degrees or 9 degrees. Is this okay? Is there anywhere else I can check/limit the idle advance or does turning off idle control do the trick Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

That's great, just what I needed. Thanks all, I'll get some quotes! Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

I'm thinking of getting some metal coolant pipes made up to my design, to replace the longish silicone hoses I'm using at the moment; It'll do away with a few joins and will allow me to get slightly better pipe runs. I'd ideally like the finished products with a black/powder-coated exterior like the CC ones have. Can anyone recommend a fabricator? I was going to approach Pro Alloy or someone to see if they'll do it, but would prefer to go with a recommendation if I can. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

I've enjoyed reading the nostalgic recounts from years gone by 😶‍🌫️ Those were the days! Well, I can confirm that the split power supplies to the Emerald were indeed the problem. I've hooked pins 11 and 28 up to a known ignition signal and now the engine stops and starts on the button It's a relief because given the head's just been ported and the pistons I used were new, I'd kind of ruled out carbon deposits.. Sigmamark, if you want your engine to die when you turn the key, I think switching whichever pin is on the BMS to the ignition switch should have a similar result. Now to surprise the neighbours by wheeling it out of the garage for the first time in ages and try to get the hang of the new gearbox/engine/clutch/throttle/indicators setup 😬 Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Cheers chaps. I think you've put your finger on it Brent, thanks for that - I couldn't understand how it kept running on injectors unless they leaked, which given they're new seemed unlikely. I've been giving it some thought (as you do, to make work that bit more exciting..) and I think its the way I've powered the Emerald; it needs 2 power feeds and instead of taking them both from the ignition switch, one's from the ignition and ones from the battery master switch, following a complete rewire including a change to how the MFRU is used (I've gone Peter C's route and done away with the single 30a ECU fuse). I'd bet the fact that one of the ECU power supplies is still live when I turn the ignition off, is enough to keep the coil and injectors operating. The fact that the fuel pump stops means the injectors are squirting fuel under the gradually decreasing pressure until the supply stops. Don't think I'll be giving up the day job to become an electrician any time soon! I'll confirm the theory and report back.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

So I've replaced a U/S coolant sensor, reduced the fuel pressure slightly and fiddled with the MBPS value for the Emerald base map I'm using for my R500-spec Duratec. It seems to idle pretty well and revs cleanly; this has all been a cursory check while parked in the garage this evening - I haven't let it run long enough to get up to temperature yet but I reckon it's driveable and am looking forward to the next step of pottering up and down the road I did notice when I switched off the ignition though, that the engine runs on (and I mean really runs on..it must be powered by magic) What could be causing this? I didn't have the laptop connected to see what the ECU was doing at the time. Would it seem to point to a rich mixture at idle which the highish compression is then dieseling? I can't see how it can be an electrical thing; my injectors and coil are relay-driven by the ignition switch so I'm positive they would have been off. The fan wasn't running and the charging light for the alternator came on when the ignition was off. It must be a mixture/plug issue mustn't it? Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Thanks both. Regin, yes I'm using an LC1 with the ECU which'll run in adaptive mapping mode when it's above tickover Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Thanks Dave and Regin Regin, I'll double check the latency value, I don't remember seeing it mentioned but I haven't delved into the Additional Maps section much before so I could have missed it. If Dave says it's pretty much the same, hopefully I won't have too much trouble. The car is booked for a rolling road session mid-Sept so I'm aiming for something to get me up and running for a month, just to get some miles on the engine and get it run in. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 26 Jul 2009 14:46:26

I've got a quick question for those that understand the witchery of injector scaling, as this is my first foray into it. I'm using an Emerald K3 and I think I understand what I need to do, but could do with a second opinion. I originally used the ECU with a different engine/injectors/fuel pressure. I've got a base map for the engine from someone with the same larger injectors and fuel pressure I'm running. Am I right in thinking that ultimately, what's important is that my MSPB figure is the same as the owner of the original map, so that the figures in the fuel map are correct when they get multipled by it?. I can either calculate this by scaling the injectors/fuel pressure, or by directly editing the MSPB figure (which is probably the better thing to do if borrowing a map for the same injectors and pressure) Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

I had a feeling it was about 280 bhp and 8000 rpm but I could be a little out. The R500 uses a standard one if that helps. If you keep the standard one I'd recommend getting it keyed. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

No problem Paul. It's from a VW Polo. If you're doing an onine search on the number, you may not need the spaces. If you're going to a VW dealer it shouldn't matter. There's a shot of it here Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project