k80rum

That's what I keep coming back to. A single coil works. Whatever the slight benefits (and I'm assuming they are slight), it's going to be much easier to find a new single coil pack than a CoP, should the worst ever happen.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Out of curiosity, is the general trend towards CoPs on the newer engines beneficial enough to justify migrating from a single coil. Emerald K3 supports them, so it's technically possible to switch a Duratec by getting some from a Ford/Mazda/Volvo Negative points must be *if* one fails, you're a bit stuck. That said, a tintop would be in the same boat and they tend to do many more miles, so the current Ford ones must be quite reliable. Revising the loom, which becomes a bit more convoluted/new connectors are needed. So what are the upsides? More controlled, stronger spark? any benefit to emissions or power? Not something I'm necessarily considering, just interested to understand Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Hi Ian It might well do it I'd plumbed it properly My catch tank is a clear 1L drinks-bottle and I didnt' prime it with any oil or dip the end of the breather hose into said oil. As a result my breather hose is dangling above the expelled oil.. I've popped the engine out again so I'll rectify it while I work finalising my loom. Cheers for that Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Hi Mike, Like Gary, I'd say 1.9L (certainly on first filling). I've drained mine now but not refilled it yet. Initial fill was just under 2L so I'd expect very slightly less on the refill as I'm sure despite leaving it overnight to drain it's not as empty as it was the first time around. Hope this helps, Darren Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Thanks chaps Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Sorry to hear that Gary ☹️ mine went okay - draining is a piece of proverbial because my drain plug ends up *just* underneath the drivers side lowered floor. This means I can get a 23mm socket and ratchet on it and get everything out. Filling on mine is about as easy as the cc 6-speeder I reckon; I drilled a 1" hole in the passenger tunnel side in the footwell. It just clears one of the tunnel struts but I can get a socket on the filler plug and withdraw it through the hole. I then use a flexible funnel through the hole to fill. Gauging when the level is still a bit of an art and involves waiting for the puddle on the floor to start, as I cant crane my head into the footwell far enough to see by eye I lied when I said it hadn't chucked out any oil, it was just too clear to see on a cursary glance. My catchtank just behind the front wishbone has about 150ml I'd guess but I'm going to measure it. I was warned that itd vent some and 'finds its own level' no leaks from seals that I can see so I'm happy its behaving. Some shots of the car/box in action on the rolling road are now up on Youtube. A search for "k80rum" should find them. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Bother. Thanks Peter, I wondered if that might be the case. I fitted a set of Omega pistons to my Duratec 2L recently and I'm pretty sure the CR is 11.5:1 I just wondered if I could confirm what I was actually getting. I appreciate that readings should be the same across cylinders but wondered whether for a certain CR there was a 'window' of readings and how it compared to readings for a 12:1 piston for instance. It's apropos of nothing in particular, just keen to learn and understand Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Out of curiosity, does anyone know roughly what compression readings the various compression ratios give for a 2.0 Duratec Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Hi Ian A lot more than he thought of the suspension setup (which I'd warned him it wasn't!) general consensus was that the engine was too cammy. Both Steves mentioned they believed Duratec don't like wild cams too much and they ended up having to compensate the fuelling in a couple of points which messed up their nice smooth fuelling curves 😬 Sounded great and pulled like a train. I'll post the vid next week. Already planning the next improvement which will see a different head, cams, TBs and ECU as I want to follow the Ultimate Performance/SBD route. Watch this space for a sale of Duratec parts! One thing's for sure, the 'box is staying Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 25 Sep 2009 08:18:45

Just to add, My G60 was given a proper thrashing through the gears today (to an indicated 156mph thanks to my overdriven 6th 😬 during the 5hrs it spent on T&R's TAT rollers ) this was followed by a quick blat around the roads of Essex. The drivetrain noise was un-noticeable, it used no oil (although I'm now going to do a 'box oil change because I consider it's been run-in) Steve G was very complimentary about it, proclaiming the 'boxes to be the "bogs dollocks" (or something similar...) A big thumbs up for Quaife's new baby. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 25 Sep 2009 08:17:56

I've gone for a wet sump on my self-built engine which is a slight increase on an R500 spec. I've gone wet sump because a fellow Blatchatter has done several seasons with a wet sumped car on slicks and no oil/bearing issues following each engine stripdown. On that basis it should be fine for the road and occasional track so long as the following are observed; You'd be well-advised to run an oil cooler The oil level is well maintained as Timbo says Your breathers are well-vented as John mentions Edited by - k80rum on 22 Sep 2009 18:49:26

It's early days but I've had no problems from my semi-helical version which is one of the later models. It's also seems quiet. I'm unsure about how much additional heat the gearbox does or doesn't generate but I'd be very surprised if it's more than any other box. I will be putting some temp strips on my Duratec unit, the gearbox, diff and brakes over the winter, to see how warm each of them run. I'll post the findings when I get them. One thing I will say about the 'box is that the breather isn't very well designed. Peter M acknowledged the same and will be lobbying Mike Q to have it revised; there's no deflection plate beneath the breather, so oil is prone to being thrown out of the breather fitting rather than just venting pressure. For this reason it's prudent to run a hose from the breather to a catch tank, rather than just vent it to a filter or the atmosphere directly.

I think it's the Bosch green injectors you'd be after Paul. I'm using these at the moment after getting a great deal on them 'over the pond' Full details of them are at the bottom of my page here. I reckoned they were good for 272bhp at 80% duty cycle at the expected Brake Specific Fuel Consumption value and 3.8 bar. This would be a 4-injector setup Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 2 Sep 2009 18:22:54

I've just used Oily's approach to balancing TBs and have to say it was well worth it. It's annoyingly iterative but incredibly rewarding, and an hours work turned a brand new engine and TBs into something that idles like a Swiss clock Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Sorry John, just picked up your email. CC sell some mounts that fit the original chassis holes where the bobbins were and allow you to bolt the radiator to these. Picture them as dome-headed bolts with a forward-facing plate welded to the head as that's effectively what they are. I've tried to damp mine by opening out the original chassis mounting holes to about 12mm and putting a rubber grommet in the hole. This allows the CC mounting bolt bodies to pass through the grommet and should give some cushioning. I had to cant the top of the radiator back a bit and re-drill the plate on the top CC mount because it angles the radiator forward in the CSR which fouls inside an S3 nosecone. I can take some pics (and measurements for my new mounting angles if it helps) but am unlikely to get a chance until tomorrow morning - I've got to get Lucy to bed before we head out for our first baby-free night tonight in I can't remember how long 😬 Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 30 Aug 2009 17:56:01

😬 Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

He seems to have helpfully posted it in every forum.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Thanks Brent Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Phew.. Cheers for the speedy response Mr C On a related note, do you have a procedure for bleeding your system? Only reason I ask is that I got the distinct impression last time I ran the engine up to temperature that the 'stat hadn't opened; the pipe to it from the radiator was cold, so I was wondering if some air had become trapped against the thermostat.. I suppose that a small hole drilled in the shoulder of the thermostat would help if this was the case but I'm not sure whether it should be necessary; perhaps I just need a better filling/bleeding procedure Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 19 Aug 2009 22:54:19

Raceline water rail feeding the radiator, the radiator feeding the engine via the thermostat in the normal housing on the block. The system doesn't use a header tank.. I've no heater, so do I connect the heater bypass hose (comes out of a rearward-facing elbow in the water rail), to the metal connector on the block or to the other connector on the thermostat housing? Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

I've just done one Phil. Parts your friend should be able to re-use are (assuming EU2 K series which mine was); Emerald Injection loom Tps & loom Air temp sensor and loom Water temp sensor and loom Gearbox Radiator Bits he'll need to swap; Bellhousing Clutch assembly Starter Alternator Exhaust Engine mounts Induction system Possibly an uprated fuel pump depending on power hike Fuel rail & regulator Possibly injectors He'll need to decide on a water-rail solution too (there are a few choices, including off-the-shelf) Hope that helps Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

Managed to get it from the horses mouth... Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project

I have a quick (I hope) technical question for a Ford Duratec connected to the Emerald K3. I originally configured it as grouped injection and it runs well but want to try switching to sequential mode. I connected up the (until now) redundant cam position sensor to pins 15 and 32 (It's sharing pin 32 with the crank sensor ground) on the ECU. I connected up the injectors as follows: Injection common +12v supplies - reused +12v supply from old (grouped) injector loom injector 1 - ECU pin 24 injector 2 - ECU pin 23 injector 3 - ECU pin 26 injector 4 - ECU pin 1 I then changed the configuration of the K3 software as follows: Injection Outputs: from 'Grouped' to 'Sequential' Crank/Cam Sensor: left these settings as they were for the grouped injection: cylinders - 4 sensor location - crank trigger pattern - 36-1 (Ford) Tacho signal multiplier - 1 Signal type - inductive Ref position 90.0 BTDC added engine position synchronisation as follows: cam sync sensor - connected Trigger Pattern - 4+1 (Ford) Signal Type - Inductive Reference Position - 0 BTDC Does that all sound correct for a Duratec? I was slightly unsure of the engine position synchronisation settings as I didn't have anything to compare it against. The engine doesn't fire with the new setup which isn't the end of the world as I can always go back to grouped but it would be nice to get it to work. The wiring has continuity and the injector power supply is healthy. Assuming i've done everything else correctly, are there any things I can check (I suppose removing the injectors and seeing whether they release fuel into a tray would be the ultimate test) Thanks for any help and advice you can give. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 17 Aug 2009 15:04:30

that's true! Hopefully it'll come down in price over time although to be fair, DT are selling it by the metre. I think I only bought 2ftx2ft. Anthony; it's certainly flexible enough, it's pretty much like paper in terms of it's flexibility but even so I think you'd really need engine (and ideally box) out to do the job properly unfortunately. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 17 Aug 2009 10:34:42

Hi Anthony, it needs to be facing the heat source, so you stick it on the 'inside' of the tunnel panels and footwell: picture I can't vouch for it's effectiveness over the more traditional adhesive heatshield cloth yet, but it's the approach McLaren used on the F1 because gold is the best reflector and the stuff is used in Nascar so it must be fairly effective. I can't remember where I bought it now - it was about a year ago. It wasn't that cheap but if it works well, It should be worth it. Edited to add: here it is and here Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 17 Aug 2009 09:55:33