k80rum

Many thanks, I'll pass Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

I may be interested. Can you let me know age, approx miles and roughly how much track vs road use it's had? Many thanks Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

here's a translation Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Yep, sorry if my post wasn't clear, I meant that the overall height of the 2.3 being taller, might make a difference with the tower on the water-rail (although I doubt it..) I thought the 2.3 block is slightly taller isn't it? Head of course is exactly the same. Cam cover fits both (and as Rob rightly says, weighs a ton ) Mine's even heavier now because it's been wrinkle-painted by a local chap that does the Ferrari camcovers. Looks nice though, which is of course what's important. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 23 Nov 2009 20:16:48

Hi James Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the fold Surrey's got one of the highest concentrations of owners so I'm sure you won't be short of expertise. For my part, my knowledge (which isn't great) is confined to the newer engines and I hardly ever get time to pop into the garage these days but I'm local and you're always welcome to pop around for a chat/tyre-kick/problem-solving if I can be of help. At least you picked the right time of year to get the maintenance done! Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

I too have the new Raceline large-bore system, their water-rail and their low profile camcover. I've fettled both the water-rail and the exhaust flanges with a die-grinder in order to get a decent fit. The tolerance is very tight. Yep, the expansion tank is swapped for an overflow tank and the thermostat should stay in the OEM housing on the block (Raceline supply a superior 82deg themostat and block-housing which has the added benefit of being a smaller housing than the normal Duratec block-one). As Ian says, there's a shorter tower which fits on the water-rail and matches the camcover for height. Edited to add that my experiences are for a 2.0. The 2.3 being slightly taller, may well need a slightly shorter tower on the water-rail.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 25 Nov 2009 17:42:50

As Brent says Hans, Raceline were involved in the engine design/install for Caterham who (from what I understand) had quite a tight deadline for the anniversary at the time. As such, it reportedly had a few areas for improvement. Give Peter at Raceline a ring if you want either information on the X330 or want to investigate the forced induction route. He'll be able to tell you what was done and what will be done differently the next time around, he could probably put you in touch with those who have driven it too, although I'd be suprised if he hadn't. I know there's been some development in this area in tandem with Mountune (who do the WRC Fords) and that there are several people now at different stages of putting in forced-induction Duratecs into sevens. Bear in mind that the x330 was supercharged rather than turbocharged. I've got a feeling the lag and heat from even a small turbo are bettered by the supercharger when it comes to installation in a seven, which is why the Rotrex unit was chosen for the x330 Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 23 Nov 2009 19:25:00

That's the way I did my Duratec, for what it's worth Split engine from bellhousing with the bellhousing supported, having removed engine mounts and alternator. I then moved the engine forward and up. Neither the car nor the engine was at an angle. I've kept the bellhousing supported whilst the engine's out by using rope tied to the chassis rails and going underneath the bottom of the bellhousing. I must admit I've been wondering about the best approach to putting the engine back in when the time comes. Last time I tried it, the clutch and input splines didn't mate perfectly and I ended up having to take the clutch off to file the edges of the splines clean. In the end I found the install easier with box attached so I'll be keeping an ear out for your progress Chris I can't see there being a problem so long as you can get the engine and box lined up well, maybe I was unlucky the first time or perhaps it's easier said than done! Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

compared to the Type 9 and new quaife box, yes. It's also much lighter (but you'll need a flanged propshaft to replace the old CC splined one) Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

As do Redline - 40mm wider fibreglass wings off-the-shelf I was going to use mine as a buck to make some in c/f (the Mog ones are pretty expensive) but have yet to get around to it Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 30 Oct 2009 07:47:53

You need to click on Products/BG Products/BG Pedal Box in Jon's link. It's a neat solution to adding a balance bar and second cylinder to the existing setup, however I'm not sure whether it'd fit if the car was using a hydraulic clutch. As has been said, I have a feeling that fitting a floor mounted type is going to require some surgery on the footwell and probably the chassis - it's going to need to be directly attached to absorb the loads it's under and prevent flexing of the footwell panels it's mounted against. Good luck with it Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 24 Oct 2009 13:18:23

Hi Chris, My Ford/Mazda workshop manual shows the part as -6435-/1- 352 Simultaneously torqued to 45+/- 2Nm, turn on 180deg +/- 5 deg I hope that helps. The manual is available through my downloads page if you need it. Page 47 Depending on your application, it may be worth putting some ARP bolts in as they may even be easier to get hold of, from somewhere like RaceCo, SBD, Buton or Raceline. HTH Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 21 Oct 2009 19:47:43

Oops. Deleted because it wasn't relevant.. Sorry. Edited by - k80rum on 21 Oct 2009 08:56:13

Sorry to read of your issues Gary. It's worth bearing in mind that both John and Nick are referring to the old gearbox and not the current one but I must admit I've heard the aggressive style suits the boxes and the 'let the lever go' approach seems to be advocated by both Quaife AND Elite for their boxes. That said, your style has obviously worked for however many thousand miles you've done so far - I don't see why you should need to change it if it's worked for so long. I'd be tempted to see if Len's advice works; he's had more experience than most with it. If this cures it, the next logical step would be to find out from Quaife why and what they're doing to sort it as it sounds like it might be a known issue. I take it by 'false neutral', the box is finding neutral when it should have changed down? Does it only happen for a specific gear and is it only ever on downchanges? Sorry I can't provide anything more constructive but like most here, I don't think my box has done enough miles to develop (or not) a similar symptom.. Best of luck with getting to the bottom of it Gary Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 19 Oct 2009 21:51:11

I used a nibbler on the end of a cordless drill to do mine - marked the outline I wanted with a marker pen, undercut with the nibbler and then fettled it to size with a small flap wheel in a die grinder (although the drill would probably have worked for this job just as well) Definitely worth taking your time, measuring twice and undercutting the hole. It wouldn't be so nerve-wracking if it wasn't the bonnet, but if your experience is anything like mine, you'll be wondering what you were worrying about (although still in no rush to do it again!) Best of luck with it Chris Edited to add: you can also always hide any small errors with the rubber cycle-wing trim, around the outline of the hole afterwards. I think it finishes it off quite nicely Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 18 Oct 2009 20:51:47

Polevolt have started selling the mini ones, but Simtek UK have a much wider range in the small (7 amp) size and stock the large (15 amp) sizes too. Simtek's service so far has been as good as Polevolt's and you can order online. I'm using a couple of the large Sure Seals to replace the headlamp and fan connections and smaller ones for some connections on the engine loom Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 16 Oct 2009 11:12:45

Thanks guys 😶‍🌫️ Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Can anyone who has constructed these connectors in the past recommend a method for inserting the pins? My current approach is to spray pin and rubber housing with silicone spray, the push the pin or socket in with a screwdriver but it still seems to require quite a bit of force on what's a quite delicate component. If anyone's got another technique, I'd be keen to hear it. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Hi Chris, I'd imagine the setup procedure's the same regardless of engine type, in which case there are some instructions on the Customer Support page at Minister Power Hope that helps, Darren Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Quick update - Jon, my bill of materials currently at the bottom of this page: BoM I'm still working on the schematic and it's predominantly engine-bay at the moment but I'll be extending it to the dashboard eventually. I'm using a 19-pin socket to allow me to leave the engine loom attached to the engine. The loom uses sure-seals to replace the fan and front light connections. It also uses sureseal and mini sureseal for the Wideband controller and map switch sublooms. The spreadsheet lists RS as the supplier for the shielded twisted pair but I'll probably use Polevolt (about the same as Maplin, but given the majority of the order is with Polevolt it makes sense to stick with them) Edited to add, all the engine sensor connections say twisted-pair but some of the powered components such as coil and injectors will probably need to be conventional thinwall stuff as I haven't checked the current requirements or capacity of them yet. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 4 Oct 2009 10:44:18

I'm using Silkolene Pro SRG. I think its a 75w90.. Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 3 Oct 2009 21:28:20

Thanks for updating the thread Ammo. I didn't realise the head had been reworked so extensively, it sounds very tasty. I'd certainly be interested in taking a gander. Time's the real enemy against the supercharged project. It saddens me to say I've got little enough these days to work on the car itself with work, so I've decided head should win over heart and sold it on to some mad chap in west yorks that supercharges VX red-tops. It's still a project I'd like to do but it out to be used, not gathering dust. If the chats I've been having with others are anything to go by though, there should be a gaggle of forced-induction 7s appearing soon; 2 duratecs and RiF's monster. It'll be an interesting couple of years for developments! Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

ah-ha.. Cheers Jon. It's still in the early stages but I'm hoping to get something together by the end of next week. I'll let you know when I've got something together. It's just a case of getting some time to sit down and look at it properly Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library

Decided to do mine myself in the end. It'll be a good winter project and given that mine's a like-for-like engine loom it'll save the hassle of getting the car to a loom manufacturer. I've got a labeller that prints on heatshrink tubing for marking things up, and some nomex sleeving which should make for a very nice finish. I'm investing in a decent crimping tool, a new soldering iron and connectors/boots/pins for the ECU and senders. I'm hoping to use a milspec connector on the bulkhead for everything passing through, which will mean the engine loom can be disconnected in it's entirety and I may ditch the MFRU once and for all. So long as I take my time about it, I should be able to have a loom for a third to half the price. I'm still looking for a decent source of 2 and three core, shielded twisted pair. RS seem only to sell it in 100m reels. I only after about 15m. So if anyone has any recommendations.. 😶‍🌫️ Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Edited by - k80rum on 1 Oct 2009 08:25:11

Any progress on this thread Shaun? Would love to see some pics of the finished article; it's something I'm planning to embark on over the winter.. Interested to know who you went with in the end too Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library