Ivaan
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Everything posted by Ivaan
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Bugger... missed them! Sorry Finlay, should have e-mailed you earlier. Clive.
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You have a PM
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Sorry Dave, He's already bought another Skyline.
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Hi Dave, Chap at work has just written off his Skyline and is looking for another project car. I'll have a chat with him. Clive
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The BECs out there with an electric reverse should claim to be Hybrid. Reduction in VED anyone?
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I have an old Audi A6 with 140K miles on the clock. Last 3 - 4 months the gear changes are getting graunchy, notchy as it goes through the gate. Happens on every gearchange, up or down, irrespective of revs or speed. It could be the clutch, but it's not slipping, nor dragging and seems to operate normally. The bite point may be a touch low to the floor, but it does fully disengage. When clutches go through wear, what are the typical symptoms? I guess it could also be a master/slave cylinder or a gearbox problem. ( Recently changed the gearbox oil which made changes a touch better for a short while ) Clutch change is circa £1K, and it's too big a job for me to do myself, so wanting to explore all possible faults before heading my local garage. Any advice welcome. TIA Clive
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The flare making kit I borrowed / used had several formers for different sizes / shapes of flare. With the instruction and a few trial goes, it was pretty easy. Most flaring kits could be the same?
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Engine rattle from something attached to alternator belt
Ivaan replied to Scotland North AR's topic in TechTalk
Don't worry, the rattle will stop when it falls off. -
Engine rattle from something attached to alternator belt
Ivaan replied to Scotland North AR's topic in TechTalk
The alternator fan blade isn't loose? -
This is the current set-up. They are remote AP MCs with motorcycle reservoirs . Nigel, I've put the Willwood MCs away in a "safe place", somewhere in the garage. I've hunted for them but the little blighters are hiding well. I'll take another look over the weekend. Clive
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Will do Nigel. I'll photograph them when next in the garage. I should say that they are spare because I swapped to AP. Because of the heavy pedal, I wanted to swap to smaller diameter and Willwood didn't go down to 1/2". From memory, I think the AP one's are 1/2" and 5/8". I know they were about 4 times the cost! Clive.
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Nigel, Richard done this for me on the R1 BEC and now with a disc conversion on the rear, she pulls up like a Caterham should. No front locking. The rears do a surprising amount of the braking effort. If you want some photos let me know. If you want a pair of matching Willwood master cylinders ( from memory 3/4" and 5/8" bores ) with integral reservoirs, I have a set you can have. The only problem is that with two mcs, it takes twice the foot pressure to brake. But you soon get used to it. Clive.
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I'm re-building a Yamaha R1 engine over the winter for the 7. It's been mooted that using Total Seal piston rings might be beneficial in gaining more torque / power. Anyone used these? Opinions? Thanks Clive.
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Hi Nick, I'll come over to Wybunbury in the tin top next month, with the airbox . Any chance Giles could bring the Petty Strut? About time I collected it! Clive
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Thanks Nick, I've not forgotten. I must get into the attic and grab the Blackbird airbox. See if you'd like a swap. From memory it's quite large CF, and must cover the whole engine. Think it fits under the standard bonnet. Is there one on your BB?
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Thanks 7WotW. Just what I need !
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Over the winter I'm going to install an airbox on the R1. Looking for some thing suitable for 4 bike carb inlets but it will have to stick up through the bonnet. Trying to reduce induction noise, and gain room for trumpets. Current set-up has no trumpets and very shallow itg foam filter. It only just fits under the bonnet. Anyone have anything they think might be suitable, I'd be grateful for you input. Thanks, Clive.
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As Gary, I had to make up a tool. Mine was just a piece of pipe, with cut outs in the side, to get the collets out. I think I used a ratchet strap wrapped right around the block to compress the springs. Not as neat a solution as Gary's but it worked.
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I replaced all the valve caps and collets on my K series on the advise of Dave Andrews. Some are cast rather than forged and the valves can pull through. Changed all without removing the head using string down the plug hole trick.
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Check the nuts on the ends of the half-shafts.They can come loose. Then the whole hub will slide on the shaft. If you loose the nut, then the wheel can come off.
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Hi Tony, You'll be pleased to know that the R1 is still going strong. Had a blast around Anglesey on Monday and as once I'd got the suspension setting right, and the fuel level dropped it was holding it own. Probably done 50-60,000 miles in her now, and on the 3rd engine. Disc conversion on the rear and dual master cylinders with bias bar have worked wonders for on the braking. Have you made any progress on getting another 7?
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Just found this thread in the archives, following the birth of a few BECs back in 2004, including my R1. I know Paul Jacobs now owns Charlie Pank's R1, but is Noger's Gxxrham or Violet Elizabeth's cars still around? Clive ( Never did get a 20 valve badge)
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Assume these are for a S3, not SV? Any photos? £60. Bid Clive
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My son and I were heading the opposite direction in the Blue aero 7. We've done Shrewsbury, Clun, Knighton, Elan Valley, Rhayader, Llanidloes, Stay Little, Machynlleth, Dolgellau,Welshpool,Shrewsbury. Hope the weather held off for you,as it did for us.
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My car has a digi-dash ( Aim Mychron3 ), and the fuel reading jumps around like crazy especially when low fuel. It's always a bit of a guess about fuel levels when on the move. Only get an accurate reading when the car is stationary. It has a normal sender unit in the tank. Is there anyway of damping the signal so that the readings steady down a bit?
