Ivaan
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Everything posted by Ivaan
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My HSs are shimmed rather than tack welded. Beware that nuts on the end of the halfshafts can come loose. I check mine every now and again. I also mark the nuts with telltales with a white marker pen so any movement is easily spotted. I used locktite and torqued up FT. Don't rely on the nylock!
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Hi Lam, On mine, the half shaft came out fairly easily. Didn't need a puller. Yes, seals are the same. Bought mine from eBay new old stock, but Chris at Redline should have them. Bearings are also all the same. I had the 1/4" keyway HS on the car and luckily my spare matched. Don't think it matters so long as the hub and keyway sizes match the slot in the HS. Had a local engineering firm press off the old bearings and press on the new one. Charged me £60 per side. Bearing must be pressed on to the correct depth from the HS end. Clive
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Hi Lam, Thanks for the pointers. I've used the spare halfshaft I had, so need another. Didn't know you can still get new replacements Will contact them. Cheers, Clive
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Mystery bolt - unidentified rattle from mid left hand side?
Ivaan replied to tompollock's topic in TechTalk
Loose baffles inside the exhaust can? -
Cheers Mark, have replied
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Can I take it please? Clive
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Yes. I had to re-tighten them on the way home from an Anglesey track day a few years ago. Should have checked for damage then!!
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Anyone got an Ital halfshaft knocking around? cheers, Clive
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I'm replacing the bearing and seals on the Ital half shafts.Got a bit of a surprise when the hub came off
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Many thanks JB and Rob, that Lowflying article is very useful. I'd not seen it before. Clive.
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There's a slight oil weep from the near side drive shaft / half shaft on my Ital live axle. The bearing itself feels fine and there is no end float problems. The bearings were shimmed by a previous owner. As my car has a disc conversion, I have removed the calliper and disc, so now only have the hub on the end of the shaft, plus the bearing retainer on the end of the axle casing to deal with. As it's the inner seal that's leaking, is it a straight forward job to withdraw the half shaft and change the seal? Will I need a puller or slide hammer to get the shaft out? Any other points I'm missing? I'll put a couple of photos on here for clarity. Thanks Clive
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I assume then that the previous owner removed the cat and put in a bypass pipe. Maybe, he still has the cat? Or has the car never been through MOT for some reason?
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Check he hasn’t also misinterpreted the emissions regs too. Seems odd that the car now needs a cat. What year was your registered?
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I normally use ballistic grade goggles with a baseball cap on a lanyard. The goggles are bespoke varifocal, reactor light sunnies, so can be used for day and night time driving. I also carry a helmet most of the time, in an Oxford motorcycle helmet bag in case of heavy rain. It either straps into the passenger seat, or onto the roll over bar. I also keep a one piece motorcycle suit in the boot for wet weather. Clive
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It could also be the float on the fuel sender in the tank hitting the top of the tank. Mine does it when the tank is full.
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I got fed up with these types of problems when I owned my 1.8K Series car. I eventually fitted a PRRT ( pressure relief remote thermostat ). I think these we're developed for the Freelander? After fitting, easy straight forward refilling, consistent temperature in all conditions and no air locks. Search PRRT should bring up plenty of info. Clive
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Get someone to grab the roll bar and give the car a good rock whilst you're laying under the back of the car. You'll either hear or feel where the movement is. Probably A frame bushes.
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I'd look at fitting an Apollo pretty soon. I wiped the bearings in my K series car with road use only before fitting one.
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Test it by using a length of say 6 x 2 with 2 x 1 pegs set at the wheel base and minimum clearance height. Like a template of the car, if you see what I mean. Drag the template up/ down the drive to see where it hits, and build up levels to suit until it clears.
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This is the set up on my car. with twin master cylinders and a balance bar. With my set up ( Bike Engine ) it's lighter on the front, so a lot of the brake effort is done at the rear. With the balance bar I can easily move the braking effort front - back, so that the fronts just lock first. The downside of twin master cylinders is a heavy solid brake peddle. Clive
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Your 4 point harness should have provision for a crotch strap in the buckle. You just need the crotch strap.
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Looks like the wrong size of pads to start with. Do they sweep the full width of the disc? What pads are you using?
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Hi Neil, Any luck finding the adaptor? Clive
