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I think the world is your oyster when it comes to upgrading,..... assuming you are already skilled enough to extract all the performance from what you have at the moment, otherwise you are just carrying around more excess potential that cant be used *thumb_up*

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Dont want to Decat as I would have to inform insurance and wish to stay legal. I dont have an issue with driving a faster car as I have ridden 1200cc motorcycles for years that do 0 to 60 in 3 secs. I have also driven faster cars than mine. 
Thanks to those who gave helpful advice. *clap*

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You reminder is completely superfluous. I have modified or upgraded many vehicles in my time and always with the knowledge of my insurer. This car is no exception also this was a CC factory built car. I would be surprised if my insurer would be happy to continue covering a car that contravenes emission  laws contributes to atmospheric pollution.

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Tyres - Toyo R888R's are pretty good -205/60 R13 on rears, 185/60 R13 on the front

Adjustable platforms - Protech are reasonable priced options

Corner weighting

Aero or Brookland screens - feels like you're going 20mph faster

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Agree with Toby above. But I'd add 

13x6... front and rear (my preferred tyre is the Avon ZZS for road and track) I wouldn't go to wider on the rear until you go north of 175bhp. The car is much more nibble on narrower rears. And doesn't need the extra grip with a stock 310 engine. Especially if you have or fit an LSD  

Adjustable suspension collars a must before flat floor as suggested above  

Rear anti roll bar is you don't have one

then corner weight/flat floor as Toby suggests  

after that:-

Tracsport LSD

ultralight flywheel and clutch ( via Premier Power) set that sigma free! 

F160/F175/F190 from premier power... transformational...


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  • Leadership Team

Back in 2016 I did a Get To Know Your 7 day down at Gatwick, with Caterham's Simon Lambert.

While the Club's 3,000 members will have 6,328 views about the right thing to do (I'm too ignorant to have a view), here's Simon Lambert's list from back then:-


  1. 13” wheels. Feels much more 'planted'.
  2. ZZS tryres.  Better in wet and more progressive (also ZZR).
  3. 4 point harness, correctly worn (tight to breathe).  Better connected to car. (Schroth harness if you’re thin).  The tighter you're tied in, the faster you drive.
  4. Rear anti-roll bar (already got a front one) £150.  Take off in wet.  A softer car is quicker in wet.  Orange is basic ½”.  Red is 5/82, so a bit stiffer.
  5. LSD.  Especially in 160 – 170 bhp.
  6. Brakes.  Big brakes on front.  Bigger master cylinder.
  7. Then you can start upgrading the engine


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