At the time (my last car) I had 6” front and rear wheels so the ride height was just a bit higher but equally front to back so I left it as it was. The problem arises with 8” rears which I have now. The corner weighting would need a tweak. If I change to R888R from ZZS I don’t know whether I will take some height measurements at each corner and tweak it myself or take it back to be corner weighted again. That would obviously be better.
I don’t know about the compounds. What I did notice was that on track R888R seemed to get hot much quicker. The extra side wall does make them feel slightly different too. At my level I would be happy with either but I would prefer to remain with ZZS if that is possible.
I have run ZZS and R888R on 13” on track and road, wet and dry.
I have a slight preference for ZZS and would pay more for them but R888Rs are great.
I personally didn’t find the sidewall felt stiffer on R888R but I have seen others comment on that. In fact if anything I thought they were slightly more compliant perhaps due to the higher sidewall. Although R888Rs are less expensive I found they didn’t last as long.
All very subjective but that’s my thoughts.
The Original Cafe Racer LED lights seem to be a good choice considering factors such as legality, price, performance, both size options and looks (obviously that is subjective but not deviating too far from the original looks is my choice).
Having hit a huge pot hole in the dark the other day I wondered if there were any more experiences or products to consider?
I try to keep my car to standard spec and legal but driving in the dark with the huge pot holes is awful and quite off-putting.
According to Caterham Parts the Sigma uses the same radiator and I haven’t heard of them needing such frequent replacement. So if the problem is specific to the Duratec it is perhaps more likely to be the top hose as suggested earlier. It clearly isn’t good as supplied.
My 310R is used for road and track days. I changed mine from the R position to the S. Unfortunately I did it straight after buying the car so I can’t make a comparison. My reasoning was that I put more emphasis on it feeling better on the road (even if that compromises the track capability a bit).
I still feel unsure about fitting 205 width R888R tyres on 8x13” rear wheels. It is outside of Toyo’s Approved Rim Width and it seems 6x13” would be a better match.
An electronic regulator housed in the original housing would help get the best out of the dynamo. Mine charges at all times when moving ie when not idling and is set to 14.1V at 11A max. It works well. https://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/reproduction-rb106-and-rf95-regulators.php
I have been through a similar Dynamo vs Alternator thought process for my vintage tractor. I decided on refurbishing the dynamo and replacing the original regulator internals with a solid state version housed in the original enclosure so looks the same. A blend of maintaining originality whilst making it usable.
Other options are fitting an alternator as your mechanic suggested (personally I don’t like the look of modern alternators) or fitting a Dynamator which is an alternator housed in an original Lucas style housing. Example here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391648227817?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Zz_MRG2qTPS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=N1mAWR0DS2q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
If it was just one requiring refitting, could it be bonded back in with such as Araldite metal repair putty? It is seriously strong stuff. It can be drilled and tapped like metal.
Mine appears to be tightened against the bush. I presume the face of the bush is longer than the A frame mount. I don’t remember a chamfer on the washers but it was some time ago.
Edited to say that neither of my assembly guides mention chamfered washers and they appear plain in the drawings.
If I go the R888R route I think I will change the rear wheels to 6” and go 205 rears with 185s on the front. Both 60 profile. Perfect sizing for my 310R.
I keep wondering about these AO52s. Available in 13” 185/205, 14” and 15”.
https://www.northamptonmotorsport.com/product-category/yokohama-tyres-northampon-motorsport/yokohama-advan-a052-tyres/
They would raise the car height 1cm compared to ZZS but at least the front and rear heights would increase by the same amount.
I do a nut and bolt check at least once a year and the only ones that have ever needed nipping up are on the radius arms. Might be worth checking those and also the marked area of the chassis. As an observation I would apply some corrosion protection to the tubes.
Finding a close equivalent is a good way to go for touch-ups. I use Halfords own brand Dark Green and Vauxhall Cargo Yellow as close equivalents to Caterham Vintage green and Firecracker yellow for the stripe.
My 2016 310 isn’t like that either. I expect the Sigma Ti-VCT engines have a different loom (they certainly have a different ECU) so that isn’t a surprise.