StevehS3

Finding a close equivalent is a good way to go for touch-ups. I use Halfords own brand Dark Green and Vauxhall Cargo Yellow as close equivalents to Caterham Vintage green and Firecracker yellow for the stripe.

My 2016 310 isn’t like that either. I expect the Sigma Ti-VCT engines have a different loom (they certainly have a different ECU) so that isn’t a surprise.

I have the same unused connector hanging near the heater vents. There is also a relay hanging around there.

There certainly are unused connectors under there. I will have a look later today.

The red LED on the dash indicates if the immobiliser set or unset.

A couple of things to check: Reset the inertia switch Have you removed the battery and missed off reconnecting one of the leads?

The fuel pump still primes if the immobiliser is unset on my 310, so maybe that can be eliminated?

Mine is a Mazda box if that makes a difference.

I have always tightened them by feel but I would say about 25Nm. I am always cautious.

Sigma 😀

My 2016 car has them

I have asked for an update on the Titan LSD. Let’s see how much progress has been made.

£22 for a replacement filler key from Newton. Timpsons will cut you one.

I left the original carrier in place and lowered the old diff out of it. I don’t remember the replacement requiring any specific angles etc for re-fitting. It just seemed to slot straight in. As you say, I wonder if the Watts linkage is restricting the space. Might be worth disconnecting it to see.

My factory built Sigma has cap head bolts.

This one https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-and-accessories/halfords-professional-spark-plug-socket-228426.html in 10mm size.

I asked CC about gapping for my 310R and they said they fit them straight out of the box without changing the gap. They also said the coils were so good it wasn’t critical anyway.

Yes, 15Nm for my 310R.

I think this is the same type as original Bluecol (if you wish to stay with the same type). CarPlan Blue Star Antifreeze, 1 Litre https://amzn.eu/d/ek6O0mz

This procedure is from the internet. I have been wondering if coolant temperature would make a difference. Most probably an interesting theory (and only that!). 1. To check for electrolysis use a DVOM set on DC volts. Place the positive probe of the meter in the engine coolant and the negative probe on the negative battery post. 2. Adjust engine throttle to 2000 RPM to properly get coolant flow and true electrolysis voltages. 3. If more than .4V is recorded, flush the coolant and recheck (follow guidelines in TSB 98-23-16 for Cougar). See Coolant Fill Procedure below to remove trapped air on 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines. NOTE: Export markets, be sure the water is desalinated. 4. If there is still excessive voltage present in the coolant, check the engine to body/battery grounds. Also, verify proper grounding of any aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment which has been installed into the vehicle. Improperly grounded electrical devices can cause electrolysis to occur. 5. If the condition is still present after the grounds have been checked, it may be necessary to add extra grounds to the heater core and engine.

Agreed. Anyone with OAT coolant able to take a measurement?

I read something on the internet that set me thinking about the possibility of electrolytic corrosion. Our radiators are mounted on [insulating] bobbins so there isn’t a direct connection to the chassis of the car. If there is a potential difference between the radiator and the chassis, current will flow. The water in the rad becomes the electrolyte, and perhaps an even better one with a OAT (acidic) additive. My battery is away from the car at the moment so I haven’t tried to measure the pd but I did check the resistance between the rad and the chassis which is 3.5M ohms. It would be easy to add an earth strap across one of the bobbins. Any thoughts? Lots about it on the internet. Have a Google. Here is a starter https://www.northernradiator.com/knowledge/Electrolysis

I have used R888R and would be happy to return to using them when my ZZS are worn. I noticed Yoko A052 for sale by Northampton Motorsport in suitable sizes. Can anyone advise on how they compare against ZZS or R888R? https://www.northamptonmotorsport.com/product-category/yokohama-tyres-northampon-motorsport/yokohama-advan-a052-tyres/

Geoff, your running the engine over winter regime may help.

Mine was thoroughly flushed through by Premier Power then after a few hundred miles I replaced the coolant with new. Just to be sure. Each time this crops up I never know what to make of it all. Perhaps Radtec see more problems with OAT because that’s what the vast majority of cars use - although their photos do seem to show that the coolant has caused damage.