Toby S

I had a similar problem a few years ago on my 1400 SS and in the end I tracked it down to the key ignition switch - change to a dash mounted and solved the problem - was a lot of trial and error as it was intermittent which is the real pain and also usually cut mid junction or roundabout were you didn't have the opportunity to inspect the problem properly - just needed to get the car out of the way. P.S. Tracked down finally to ignition switch when it cut on a dual carriageway and I was on outside lane overtaking and found I had no indicators so went hunting under the dash - try flicking your indicators on when it next cuts

Hi Miker7 Welcome to the fun of Sevening Given it seems to get up to temperature on the drive, I think you may find that to avoid possible overheating, the thermostat may have been removed and therefor you have full on cooling flow all the time. I know a lot of people which track their k series do this. I know that was the case with my 1400 Supersport when I first got it, and when driving in Autumn/Winter on colder day I found I couldn't get up to normal running temperature (circa 80-85 degrees) - in winter it would show 60-70 before I refitted a thermostat. No doubt there are pros and cons of having thermostats (especially if you're worried on overheating) , but I'm just as uncomfortable with revving the arse off (and you have to with a 1400) a too cooler engine as fear of the thing boiling. You can get various thermostats from Rimmer Bros which open from 76 to circa 82 degrees - I've got the standard 82 degree fitted and it seems to work fine, as long as you bleed the system properly - I've never come close to boiling. The only way to find out is to take the thermostat housing off and look to see if there is a thermostat in there - of course there may be one in there and its jammed open. Good luck

Magnecor KV85 Ignition Leads Rover 200 (dcperformance.co.uk)

I get the distributor cap and rotor arm parts from Rimmer Bros (Rover parts warehouse) who have a good stock for my 1992 1400 Supersport (ECU2) Re leads, I upgraded mine to Magnecor some time a go and can recommend, although can't remember where I got them from - I think direct from Magnecor although that was circa 4 years ago

R888R's on a 1400 Supersport - 185/60 R13 on front 205/60 R13 on rear - on 6 inch rims - I'm happy with grip and balance, although haven't tried the Nankangs

Hi Matt - I agree re plenty of illegal plates - mine on the 7 is a sticky one over the nose cone which is questionable and I've had no problems in 5 years

Wouldn't surprise me if they weren't just plastic house letters and numbers from a DIY shop. Word of caution though - unless the car is pre 1973, in all likelihood the number plate would be illegal as it wouldn't be on a white background and would be non reflective and might get a copper licking his pencil.

That's the one Jonathan, although my trailer was ruby red I had both the red and the green racing cars though - Ferrari and Lotus ? - not sure which came with the pick up and trailer, but I always went for the BRG one. Certainly a trip down memory lane seeing that again

I had one of them too - a lot of mine were hand me downs from my elder brother who is 65 now and no doubt many of those were hand me downs to him from my big brother who would now be 70 if he was still with us - proper boys toys all made in the UK !!!! I also remember a white VW pick up truck with a formula ford racing car in BRG on a a red trailer - May even have been a lotus P.S. Jonathan have you been having a rummage in your attic

Hi had one of those too SM25T - memories come flooding back Seem to remember it being a Cambridge rather than a Westminster though - is that anal ort what ?!?! Also had later 70's model - metallic blue Beetle with a gold steering wheel on the roof I wished I'd kept my corgi cars - some of them may be worth a bob or 2 now. My favorites were a light metallic blue Buick Riviera, plus, obviously my sliver James Bond DB5 complete with ejector seat Favorite Corgis as a kid - New thread anyone ?

Demon tweaks do a mechanical gauge kit for the k series caterham engine (or did) with low pressure warning light. Fitted mine around 4 years ago after a very fickle standard electronic gauge and sender which when it recorded anything didn't move much once warmed up - Big thumbs up for this kit as it works really well

Demon tweaks do a mechanical gauge kit for the k series caterham engine (or did) with low pressure warning light. Fitted mine around 4 years ago after a very fickle standard electronic gauge and sender which when it recorded anything didn't move much once warmed up - Big thumbs up for this kit as it works really well

Carpets on tunnel but not on floor - always been that way although I do have some mats I can put in although prefer just bare Ali floors

Then there is the other debate about use of sidelights v headlights

More seriously though, and I had a similar problem on my 1400 Supersport K series - given there is no click or anything, I would suggest you check the ignition key barrel connections and barrel itself - that was the problem on mine when I had a similar problem and in the end I ditched the barrel and went for a dash mounted rocker type ignition switch

#7 You mean a BL Longbridge screwdriver

Big thumbs up for Big red from me too Had the front Girling calipers refurbed by them for £200 including painting them yellow to match the nose cone and they did a really superb job for my 30 year old K series 1400 Supersport. Planning to get them to do the rear calipers this winter - not much more expensive than getting new ones - originals are off a Sierra I believe

PM sent

Yes please Chris - PM sent

A bit of harpic bog cleaner on those primaries and collector with wet and dry and elbow grease will get them back to colour. I have - the same 4 into 1 primaries although with a VHPD collector (wider bore exit than standard) and VHPD box - again with wider bore inlet and tail pipe - bought it a few years ago off here - can't tell from pictures whether that's what you got - made a bit of difference on my 1400 Supersport when I fitted it, but not that much so would agree with #4 Trick with all the k series (especially the smaller capacity ones) is to keep them spinning at 5,000 rpm plus for any real grunt

The old Rubery Owen Ro-styles - certainly a blast from the past - went all sorts include MGB's, Midgets and Escort 1300E's

Me too - I've got mine at the bottom too

PM sent re Quickshift gearlever

I know unlikely but I thought I'd ask

#12 - That's the kit I used on my 1400 Supersport and it works really well (seem to remeber oit wasn't as much as that but it was circa 3+ years ago - much more accurate readings and you get far more movement than the old electrical kit which even before it gave up the ghost didn't show much movement even when it was deciding to work - With the new gauge its 65psi on start up -moving to 70 with throttle blips, settles at 20-22 psi when fully warmed up at tick over and then reads between 40 and 60 PSI when driving depending on revs #12 suggestion re insulation - definitely agree with getting some insulation around the braided pipe if you pass through the hole where various wires and the speedo cable goes through - its all a bit tight and my first attempt almost cooked the electrics - In the end I put a separate hole in the bulkhead to feed the pipe through