Toby S

I've just bought a second had pair of rear wings in great condition My old ones are in very poor state with star cracks all over the place, loads of splits, cracks and the gel coat on the outside (shiny side) cracked and lifting in a number of places. In the main the damage has occurred due to stones off the R888R's being thrown up and hitting the inside of the arch as opposed to debris hits on the outside (although I did have a pheasant strike recently - had the brooklands on so it could have been worse). I was wondering what people do to protect the inside of the wings. I've thought of:- Strengthening the wing with additional layers of fibre glass and epoxy on the inside Glueing layers of a cut down truck inner tube to the inside of the arch to give a rubber layer of padding (not sure which glue I'd use though) WaxOyling the inside.Was wondering if anyone had any recommendations, do and don'ts

Totally agree with you John and a good analogy "worry gauges" especially like you say the electrical oil pressure gauge - I've long since given up getting too excited on the actual reading per se, kerbing my interest to the movement being recorded between tick over and blipping the throttle - as long as that still showing a 2 - 2.5 bar differential I'm generally happy - as for the reading on tick over that can range between 1/2 a bar and 2 bar depending if its sulking or not. I know I really should replace it with a mechanical gauge sometime - perhaps I should also get the dual sort of gauge which show oil temp as well to give me something else to worry about

Hi Mrp That would be great - PM sent with e-mail address

PS - the 205 width tyres on 60 profile also fill the rear wheel arches better from a pure asthetics point of view

On my 1992 1400 Supersport I run 13x6 inch wheels with Toyo R88R's other than in winter - 185/60 on front but 205/60 on the rear - not only gives better overall balance but also gets the extra profile on the speedo wheels - 185/70 profile would be12.95cm, 205/60 is 12,3cm so still a bit of an over read but within reason (circa 5-7% against savnav speed - I know in winter when I'm running 185/60's all round, the over read is more significant when the profile drops to 11.1cm - serious over read of circa 15%+

Hi Are the rear wheel arches still for sale What condition are they in - any scrapes or cracks Whereabouts are you for collection - probably a bit bulky for courier - I'm in Worcester

Best way to test it is to find an empty straight piece of road - stop and then drop the clutch at about 5,000 revs - if you leave 11's on the tarmac, can't be too much wrong with it

I think, although haven't checked, its probably something to do with the lighting up laws in UK, whereby headlights only need to be used between 30mins after sunset - 30mins before sunrise - hence side lights being kept. Re parking lights, main side and headlights need to have the number plate light lit as well, but parking lights don't and also parking lights need only to be on on the O/S of the car, saving battery power. Mind you with a Caterham, I should imagine given the capacity of the battery, leaving parking or side lights on overnight, you'll probably find the battery as flat as a witches tit come morning

Success 12.6v at fuel pump and fuel pumps primes and runs Did the trick of running a fly wire from Battery to the live attaching at the pump (thanks for the tip Andrew) and working back through to the MFRU - found 2 things dodgy connection at fuse box sorted that and then did the join of the 8/4, 8/6 at MRFU as suggested above and fuel pump primed - checked voltage at fuel pump 12.6V - however found a kink in wire feeding the small MFRU connection at Pin1 giving intermittent problem - straightened, cleaned up connection at ECU end and MFRU and problem stopped (well tried it 10-15 times and fuel pump primed each time) - Fingers crossed for tomorrow although at least now if there a problem I know where to look.Thanks for the help and advise guys P.S. Before I started I changed the battery in my multimeter (was probably a couple of years old, but decided from the start I wouldn't take any chances)

I've got R888R, albeit on 13" wheels and probably higher profile - running 185/60 on front 205/60 on rears - and I've found the grip excellent for road use in dry and wet/damp conditions - not been out in heavy rain (with brooklands you tend to hide under the nearest tree anyway in rain)

If its unsightly tarnished primaries coming out of the side, Harpic loo cleaner and elbow grease brings them up nicely

P.S Andrew Re voltages - I shared the following with Jonathan over a PM yesterday Nothing on - 12.95v Ignition on 12.95v On crankng engine - initial drops to just under 10v for a moment and sits at 10.3 - 10.4 during continued cranking Fuel pump doesn't prime before cranking Back to 12.95 after cranking (ignition on only as not started) We agreed that this is unlikely to be the main problem but will clean up all battery connections whilst I'm at it and recheck

Hi Andrew Many thanks for you reply. I think the one of the problems I seem to have is the wiring colours don't seem to match anywhere once you're past the fuel pump Fuel pump - yellow/green and black - tick Interia switch - brown/grey and white and purple - hmmm Fuse box - both purple and white - hmmmSeems I have a car wired by a colour blind electrician !! Re what I thought of as the main loom plug, on mine this sits on the main bulkhead/shelve (same bulkhead the ECU,and MRFUsit on) directly on top of the heater blanking plate under the the heater bypass hoses (I guess when the car had a heater it may have been dropped into engine bay). I may have got confused by the sight of white and purple wires in there (interestingly no green/yellow) and in the 1992 handbook wiring diagram it describes the wire going to fuel pump as purple/white Re the plug you refer to at front on drivers side, there is no large grey plug but there is however a smaller black plug (circa 6 pins) which sits along side a thick sheaf of wires (I assume the engine loom) and a much smaller sheaf of wires. Now interestingly the smaller sheaf comes out of the sheaf which goes on to the black plug, by passes the plug and then returns back into the sheaf coming out of the other side of the black plug - I wonder if at sometime in its history the original plug was part replaced and the by pass put in on some of the wires (I can definitely feel a join connection under this smaller sheaf of wires). Certainly seems worth investigating The only other plug around there seems to be under the throttle body and all wires from that seem to be linking to the throttle body itself (I guess the stepper motor/throttle bodies) and I can't see that being linked Excellent tip on connecting a fly wire at different points on the system by the way and seeing where I can pick up the other end, and certainly should help locate wires in the circuit. I think disconnecting the MRFU big plug (and the main leads off the battery as well I guess) and connecting the fly wire from battery to the pump and then going hunting will be the trick disconnecting at various points - definitely want to see what is under that smaller sheaf of wires referred to above - wouldn't surprise me if I find a colour change of wires !!. Probably will be this weekend's work if dry, but I'll keep everyone posted - You never know Andrew, you might find yourself with a completely alternative wiring diagram for the fuel pump circuit !! Thanks again for all you help guys

Thanks EEK Seems like the Ecnoseal plug on yours (mine has scorching too) - may try an locate a new plug (Redline maybe) and do a complete new refit of all connectors and clean up of all the wiring round it I've also PM'd Karl H whose thread you kindly attached to see what in end his loss of voltage was down to - hopefully he's sorted his by now. I'm also charging up the battery after checking acid levels (Jonathan advised the the voltage on cranking was low, although that wouldn't explain the pump not priming on ignition switch on) Still welcome any other ideas from others too in my quest to find a solution. Next weekend's work Bloody electrics !!!

P,s, - I tried bypassing the inertia switch as well and it didn't change any of the readings at fuse box or pump

Hi Guys I'm having same sort of problem as detailed above on a 1992 ECU2 1400 Supersport – and found this on archive (through google search in the end). Seem only to be getting around 8v's if anything at all to the fuel pump on volt meter (seems to vary sometimes nothing or under 1 volt and sometimes up to 8v, although slowly climbs to this if at all) and pump will not prime – same on cranking the engine post priming phase. Have tried fly wires (both live and earth) straight from battery and pump works fine (should do a new pump) - Reconnected the normal earth wire and leaving live fly wire and again works fine, so would appear to be the live side of circuit. Battery is circa 12.85v before cranking and on normal ignition switch on On cranking drops to 8-9 volts At FIA key:- 12.85V both sides so no drop there MRFU - Input pins Pin 2 12.65V, Pin 1 – 0 at Pin 2 which I think is correct MRFU - Output pins Pin 4 and pin 12.6V Tried both a new MRFU unit (YWB 001022) and a spare and same results with both At fuel inertia switch seems to be 12.4V on the brown and blue wire entering the inertia switch – Other wire is a white and purple, which seems to lead off into the loom. At fuse box between nothing and 8v, with the volts slowly climbing during the usual priming stage and also on cranking the engine post priming stage The problem I’m having is the “Grey” ecnoseal plug per the diagram attached above (I’ve been using) - same as Reviila’s on the Technical Guides section (EU2 Non-VCC), but that doesn’t show the inertia switch https://www.lotus7.club/sites/default/files/images/docs/guides/WiringDiagrams/WiringDiagramNonVVC.png I’ve also looked at an older version by Shaun-E which includes the inertia switch https://www.lotus7.club/sites/default/files/images/Docs/Guides/YSB104490%20Engine%20harness%20K-series%20EU2%20non%20VVC.pdf Basically cobbling my thoughts together between the 2 The sequence I am working to is - MRFU to Inertia Switch to main engine loom plug to fuse box to pump The problem I have is locating the main loon plug C162 per Revilla’s diagram – where is it – I have a fairly large black plus which seems to be coming off the loon at back of the engine (circa 1 feet away from the MRFU and EMU) which I assume iss it, but this only has circa 9 connector pins and on separation looks nothing like the C162 plug detailed in the revilla’s diagram, although does not look dissimilar to the main engine loom detailed in the 1992 handbook on separation (big black location plastic bit in the middle of plug. The purple and white wire seems to be coming in/out on pin 4 on the top row of wires on this plug Unfortunately time ran out today, but assuming my understanding of the sequence in the wiring diagrams, and the 1992 wiring is not dissimilar , it would seem to me to date I’ve located the problem to be either the main loom plug itself (on separating the plug, their did seem to be quite a lot of scorching on the yellow plastic on both sides on the inside of the plug around the pin 4 so that may be it and also all the wiring looks a bit mucky both sides of the plug), or the wire from the inertia switch to the main loom plug or the wire from the main loom plug to the fuse box.Now the questions:- Is the sequence I using above the correct one Do you think I’m on the right track or is there anything else I need to consider/missed The main loom plug – given the convoluted wiring (I’m not brill on electrics and certainly some of the wire colours don’t seem to tally – may have had some rewiring in it’s life – certainly has the separate starter motor relay), I’m confused given the wiring to/from the main loom plug come in/out of the sheaved sections of loom which side of the main loom plug is coming from/going to where – the black main loom plug has male pins in the side of the smaller black outer and fits into the female pins in the larger of the black outer shells – Wires sizes to me seem smaller on the former side Which side is from the inertia switch, which side to the fuse box (may help me track which side is the problem). My main concern is that sometimes I’m getting nothing and sometimes up to 8 volts – can’t help but think there is something I’m missing if its swinging around like this. Given the comments on the main loom plug (grimy and scorching inside), do you think I should just change the plug anyway (difficult to see what state the female pins are in anyway)As ever guys, any help/advise much appreciated Many thanks in advance

I bought one last year from Redline - just the pump and the gasket

My 1992 1400 Supersport had the same problem you mentioned in #1 a few years ago and it turned out to be the switch - your switch looks pretty similar from a dashboard view. I popped the switch out and disconnected the white wire plastic holder at back - then dismantled the switch (levered the tabs at side with a flat blade screwdriver and then pulled apart) and it was crud (green oxidisation) on the metal copper strip - cleaned up and put switch back together and refitted and hey presto everything worked - 10 min job - switch is a very simple affair just a copper strip, slider and copper contact points

"We moved the fuse box" - it isn't a bad connection or something shorting the connection at the back of the fuse box like my previous post

Mines not a widetrack, but I've got Protech shocks (single adjusters) on a 1400 Supersport and I went for 250 fronts, 150 rears spring rates for mainly road use - these replaced 300 fronts and 200 rears which I found a bit hard for road use

Thumbs up for Protech from me too - Good value and I've been pleased with mine

Thumbs up for Protech from me too - very pleased with the single adjusters on my 1400 Supersport and well priced

Hi Jonathan Thanks - I must admit ECU's are a bit of a misnomer to me, but if they are monitoring fuel pressure that would make sense - not quite sure what it's going to make the engine do if the pressure is abnormal (low or high) as the the fuel pump only has an on and off position and the air intake (throttle body) is hard wired (non electrical), but I guess it must control what the fuel injectors are doing (how long they stay open for working in tandem with the crank sensor) - carburetors seem much more understandable to me !

Hi Jonathan Yep - the fuel trap box - couldn't see it stopping the fuel pump working so didn't investigate further - what does it do ?

P.S. This is on a 1992 1400 supersport - obviously the connections may be different on yours given its a few years younger