Toby S

What about - number plate reversing light and then a high mounted stop lamp on the roll bar acting as you fog light - in the X if FIA roll bar - would be the same brightness albeit not sure on the height requirerment in regulations - could alternative sling one under the fuel tank. Must admit mine is only on the car for the MOT as never use it (can't remember last time I used it in the tin top either and I do circa 20,000 miles a year)

Bit late to this one - sorry I have a 1992 car with brooklands and removed the wiper motor some time ago. Oval/Lozenge shaped holes in scuttle Dropped spindles down through holes and then managed to pull the whole assembly through without removing the scuttle once disconnecting the wiper motor from its cradle- need to do it slowly push/pulling it away from the wiring as it gets caught but it came out reasonably OK - certainly have had fiddlier jobs. I agree with previous comment - you'll be surprised how heavy the motor is

Fuzz Townsend has or had one which looked pretty similar I seem to remember

Tyres - Toyo R888R's are pretty good -205/60 R13 on rears, 185/60 R13 on the front Adjustable platforms - Protech are reasonable priced options Corner weighting Aero or Brookland screens - feels like you're going 20mph faster

May mean those garages offering choice of a deccelerometer in the footwell or the resistance rollers get rid of the former which my local garage uses only on a few cars with low ground clearance (including my Caterham) Don't fancy my handbrake (under the dash sort) being tested on resistance rollers - bleeding useless at the best of times and very rarely used

I use Harpic bog cleaner on mine with a scourer/fine wet and dry with similar results

#12 - probably because Protech were preferred suppliers to Westfield for a number of years

Protech for me too - good value and good quality

Early 1400 K Supersport has a one - 7,600rpm, rev counter that only goes up to 7,000 (original VDO guage same as off the x-flow), but a handy change up light which comes on at 7,400

Sorry to be thick - what does ATB stand for Looked on google and there are circa 150 acronyms to choose from - my favorite looking down the list is if "After The Bang" so far

I agree with copper silicone - I used Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker on my VHPD exhaust fitted to 1400 Supersport and it seems to work OK

The picture looks weird to me as on my 1992 dedion arrangement the ARB and the linkage is over the top rather than underneath with the ARB stretching just under the boot front floor Out of interest when did it change to under and why ? No doubt one for Jonathan

Sorry - that was to you post on page 1 Brummy jen spanner or indeed Brummagem which is a real word shortened to Brum

Aka the old Longbridge Screwdriver Best tool in the box

Can definitely recommend Big Red in Worcester. Got the original front Girling Calipers rebuild and also painted in yellow to match the nose cone by Big Red and they have done a really good job all new pistons seals and everything - looked like new callipers when I picked them up -cost was circa £200 including the painting. Looked at some Rimmer Bros OEM callipers at circa £80 - sent them back as can't say they looked concerned quality didn't look that good - seemed to be heavier than the original Girling callpers and I thought the finish on them looked poor

Was in the black with yellow nosecone parked at side and gave you a wave Nice day for a blat

The Aston is the spit of one I was offered by a friend of my Mum and Dad when I was 23 back in 1989 after his sight had gone and he had to give up his license - I foolishly turned him down and bought an RX7 instead - he offered it to me for £14k - what a mistake-aa to make-aa.

I suppose I'm most surprised at the flow rate on the Cream injectors on the MPI/VVC EU2 which mainly would have gone into the 1400/1600 K series I guess - seem very high (certainly for a 1400)

Same set up and tyres as 7 wonders - 18 psi all round on 1400 Supersport for what its worth

Must admit on my 1992 supersport, I've always managed to disconnect the white block behind the hazard and also the headlight and other switches and get the switches out (as well as the big white block you'll also have 2 other wires at the top and bottom of the switch which powers/earths the nightime illumination which can be a bit fiddley when refitting and you can get a short and blow a fuse when refitting if you're not careful) Once out I've dismantled the switch (they are just clip together) to clean all the inner copper workings - they are both fairly simply switches and typcially a clean up of all the copper bits (sliders and contacts) does the trick and gets them working as good as new

Mine is a 1400 Supersport - Must admit for most of the time it reads around 82-85 in normal conditions, but during the heatwave over the last few weekends I noticed it generally running a bit hotter around or just below 90. I have bled the system a couple of times thinking there must be an air lock, but that hasn't changed it Fan cuts in at 92 and cuts out a 88/89 degrees and I've noticed it needing to work much harder (staying on longer) in the hot weather when stuck in traffic which doesn't surprise me given the ambient air temperature - gave the radiator a good brush to remove dead flies the other day which seemed to help things slightly

Hopefully you've found it and its the only one - in the end I had 3 separate dodgy connections and as good union men they took it in turns which one to play up

Check all your connections around the ignition barrel/ignition system - I had a similar problem on my K series and eventually tracked it down to that

Cheers guys Yes its a cable drive speedo (VDO speedometer) not electronic - I'll get it up in the air and take a better look Good idea re speedo Jonathan

Hi All I've got 2 problems which have developed over the last month or so and want to check if they are possibly linked;- Speedometer, which runs off the gearbox (1992 Supersport with type 9 5 speed), has started to waver up by circa 5-6 mph at up to 60 mph and then holds steady once above this speed Following this, a few weeks later (last weekend and again this weekend whilst on reasonably long blats - 50-100+miles) I've had 2 or 3 occasions where the box has jammed in 3rd at fairly high revs when I'm going for a change up to 4th. Engine seems to be fully disengaging with the clutch action, and once I've scrubbed off enough speed and the engine revs have dropped a bit and I've dipped dipped the clutch a few times again, I have be able to change gear both up and down as normal and proceed as normalI've managed to get under the car to a certain extent this evening (although only high enough through trolley jack and axle stands and I'm no slim Jim) and felt the speedo cable and angle drive which don't seem that tight into the gearbox (can certainly wiggle them around a bit), but whilst doing this noticed it seemed pretty oily around the gearbox and angel drive and cable. I was wondering whether it may be possible that the angle drive for the speedometer has managed to get dislodged and lose an oil seal or something and I have lost oil, and the gear jamming problem is resulting from resultant low oil levels in the gearbox. Planning to get it up on the ramps of a friendly garage so I can get it high in the air to have a proper look, but thought in advance I check on your collective knowledge gentlemen whether I'm may be on the right track or whether its more likely they aren't linked and something more sinister is causing the gear jamming. P.S. Thrust bearing on the clutch has always been a bit noisy/rattlely when foot off the clutch - I've never been that comfortable with it, although its done more than 12,000 miles like that and I've had no engagement or disengagement or indeed clutch slip problems and that's still the case Thanks for any thoughts in advance