Toby S

Interesting Following a number of years where the starter was troublesome when hot (didn't even get a click sometimes), and or fuel pump wasn't priming when first turning on,and to top it all intermediate cutting out issues when warm/hot and wouldn't restart until cool (if at all) - the intermittent nature of any of the above faults was getting more regular and becoming a major pain in the neck - - I finally spend some time sorting it earlier this year. For me Had the starter checked - starter itself was fine but the solenoid was fried and also the cowling was rattling as one of the bolts had sheared and it was possible it was causing the electrics to short out - had starter refurb with a new solenoid - £85 Whlist the starter was away being refurbed wrapped the exhaust primaries from the head to the side skin to keep heat down in the engine bay and in the exhaust system to improve flow. Also wrapped heat resistant material (one layer) round the starter when it got back (not tight) concentrating on the solenoid - my engine doesn't take excessive amount of cranking - typically a second or 2 - bloke who re-furbed the starter recommended it given the position of the solenoid and the exhaust primaries (admittedly he wasn't a Caterham but starter motor specialist) Previous owner had already done the relay job referred to #5 a number of years ago but changed the relay just to make sure (new one was only a few quid) Also checked the main battery thick leads - positive and negative - mine were getting quite brittle (30 year old car) and I replaced all main leads from battery via FIA switch with upgraded thickness and also all earthing leads Finally found an intermittent drop in connection at the ignition switch barrel end and replaced with a Longacre dash mounted ignition/starter switch and re wired the under dash ignition wires whilst I was about it. Had tested battery, alternator and FIA switch prior to starting the work and had already eliminated those as possible problem areasMay have been a bit OTT, and I should imagine there were various faults causing the different issues but done circa 2,500 miles since doing the work and nothing untoward as yet, hot or cold and starts on the button (and more importantly no cutting out issues) - blats of between an hour and 5-6 hours Not sure how old your car is, but if anything like mine, the electrics do get a bit tired with age and you may end up with a number of issues working in unison like I did.

Thanks Steve

Can I have first dibs on under dash end trim panels and handbrake gaiter PM sent

Gunson Eazibleed for me too - I've used it both with fluid in the bottle and without and it worked fine each time - make sure you choose the correct cap as there are a couple which seem pretty similar - for added securtity (especially when beleeding it with fluid in the bottle), I also strap the cap down once fitted and tight with a couple of old cycle toe clip straps either side as a precaution to lessen the pressure on the the threads

Not quite sure what they've done to the front - outer most spots don't look right and I think that looks like a Mk1 grill (could actually be a mk1 front bumper and spots as well as that's where the spots went on the mk1 where indicators were higher up the wings) - they've also taken the half spats off the rear wheel arches (which they did for racing for wider rear wheels). Nice to see it with wires though

Read through the thread with the various suggestions - thought I'd pass on my thoughts, although this is for a 1992 1400K Supersport kicking out circa 135 brake. Definite thumb up for flat flooring/ corner weighting and getting the set up professionally sorted which has already been mentioned and would put that equal first with wheels and tyres Re wheels 13 inch every time - with decent level of tyre profile - I have 6.5 inch rims and have found 205/60 R13 rear, 185/60 R13 fronts R888R's for me work really well at 18psi when cold. Springs and dampers - My Bilsteins were leaking on the front and needed either rebuilding or replacing (likely MOT failure) - also when I bought the car it had been set up for track use and had 300 Ib springs on the front 200 ib springs on the rear which were a bit firm for the road to say the least (fine on a billiard table surface) - swapped the springs to 250 Front and 150ib on rear (some even suggested going down to 125/135 on the rear and a bit lower on the front) and replaced the Bilsteins with Protech adjustable shocks. I've subsequently found the set up very good for road and suits the car much better (certainly better than the Bilsteins and stiffer springs they replaced, although like I say the Bilsteins were past their best and was it the lower spring rates or the shocks which improved the handling the most is anybody's guess) - definitely checking spring rates though if car has been set up for track use - may like mine not be suited to road. The dampers and springs were very reasonably priced to boot (springs and shocks together were circa £500 for all 4 corners so cheaper than replacement the Bilsteins, albeit that was 5 years ago) No doubt the more expensive options (Nitrons/others) may be technically better performers, but for me I couldn't really justify the extra cost for the road where you're not pushing the car to the limits - I'm also a tight arse accountant. Thought I'd pass in case there's any interest .

As SM25T says re grease, and work it into the bearings rollers although best to use high temperature grease - CV Moly I think it's called

Must admit, and I know its a bit corny, I go for the full Biggles attire with my Brooklands screens Brown leather aviators flying hat I got from Holden vintage and Halcyon type 49 goggles and ear plugs and then a buff around the neck and chops if cold. Suffered a glancing bird strike a couple of years ago and it gave a bit of protection (not much) and I was glad it wasn't anything bigger than a sparrow Occasionally use just sun glasses (wrap around cycling ones) with a buff pulled up over nose and mouth and then bear head - feel a bit exposed. The skiing helmet idea seems a sensible one and one whihc probably should be encouraged (for the above reason), but when has sensible and 7 ownership been seen in the same sentence

I must admit the handbrake on mine is only used twice yearly, firstly the weekend before the MOT to check it works and holds and then then at the MOT itself - again under the dash and when I'm strapped in I can't reach it !! - I tend to just leave it in gear if on a slope

Thanks Jonathan - extremely helpful as ever - I think I might look at the Hi-spec option

I know the front brake calipers are off a triumph spitfire, but does anybody know whether they are type 12 (off mk 1 and 2 spitfire) or type 14 (off mk 3,4 and 5 spitfires) - I think the latter, but thought it worth a check

I run on 13x6.5 - with 185/60 on front and 205/60 on rears - the rears fill the wheel arch nicely - I'll see if I can download some pic

Demon Tweaks usually have Toyo R888R's in stock (185/60 fronts and 205/60 rears) and they'll reach you in a couple of days if you have a local fitter who will fit them

Now let's not start the sump baffle argument - pros and cons - just end of sports if it does degrade and isn't noticed quickly Re pressures (on a mechanical gauge - and I agree with what's already been said - much improved accuracy) On start up - 65 PSI - 70 when blipped Tick over once fully warm - 20-23 PSI General running 40- 60 PSI depending on revs and load 1400 K Supersport (with sump baffle) with 39k on the clock

I use Solopol following a machine engineer friend of mine recommendation who spends all week up to his elbows in oil and grime - seems to work well with fine pieces of pumice in the solution and not overly chemicalled so reasonably kind on the skin - I've never had any adverse skin irritation reaction

I've just fitted PIAA dual tone 500hz and 600Hz twin horns which sound together - give a 115 decibel continental (higher pitched) squeak - tends to get people's attention !!

Mechanical oil pressure gauge on a 92 1400 supersport 65 PSI on start up - whilst warming up, might blip to 70 20 PSI once warm on tick over Normal drinking anywhere between 40-65 depending on revs Oil Comma 5w-50

Check the earth I chased mine around a few years ago and once finding there was current getting to the fog with a multimeter, fly wired a new earth and it worked, came to the conclusion there must have been a break in the earth and hard wired a new earth

I may be interested in the Temperature gauge - is it an original VDO gauge or the later caterham branded one Please send a picture

#4 and #9 - Agreed - or you may find like my 1992 car with fabric seats that the padding and the springs in the cushion have gone and you arse is on the floor anyway

If the primaries and collection 4-1 are tarnished, Harpic loo cleaner takes off the tarnish and get them back to colour

Great video

For info mine is a 92 de dion 1400 Supersport (one of the first) and I'm 6' 1 and 15 stone and fit in fine Beware on the plate reg though generally - mine for instance is plated 96 (P) as it was a track car for the start of its life at Silverstone and then retired, fully refurbed and plated for the road - no problem if you get all the history etc - I guess this could also happen when they were bought in kit form and had an elongated build period

Half doors have the same popper places as for a tonneau cover. I run brookland screens all year round and generally have half doors off during the summer or when its hot, half doors on during winter or with half tonneau (mine splits) covering the passenger side and half door drivers side if I'm on my own and I'm as snug as a bug in a rug. Believe that last comment and you'll believe anything - I've got no heater fitted and its bleeding freezing in winter!!! Tonneau is always in the boot, plus a golf brolly, in case it rains and I need to head for a the nearest cafe or big tree for shelter