Toby S

Half doors have the same popper places as for a tonneau cover. I run brookland screens all year round and generally have half doors off during the summer or when its hot, half doors on during winter or with half tonneau (mine splits) covering the passenger side and half door drivers side if I'm on my own and I'm as snug as a bug in a rug. Believe that last comment and you'll believe anything - I've got no heater fitted and its bleeding freezing in winter!!! Tonneau is always in the boot, plus a golf brolly, in case it rains and I need to head for a the nearest cafe or big tree for shelter

Half doors have the same popper places as for a tonneau cover. I run brookland screens all year round and generally have half doors off during the summer or when its hot, half doors on during winter or with half tonneau (mine splits) covering the passenger side and half door drivers side if I'm on my own and I'm as snug as a bug in a rug. Believe that last comment and you'll believe anything - I've got no heater fitted and its bleeding freezing in winter!!! Tonneau is always in the boot, plus a golf brolley, in case it rains and I need to head for a the nearest cafe or big tree for shelter

There is a kit at demon tweaks with all the bits in it specially made for a Caterham - fits both Rover or Ford engines - I should imagine you could get it cheaper if you bought the individual bits, although through motor factors, but I went for this as I wanted to get it sorted quickly- also gauge doesn't look that out of place against the orginal VDO gauges on my car. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/search/shop-by/q/caterham%20mechnical%20oil%20pressure%20gauge/ I also thought it might come with some sort instruction, but alas no, hence my initial enquiry.

Big thumbs up for the mechanical gauge and definitely worthwhile fitting Took on the tip of wrapping the hose to stop shorting which was great advice Wrightpayne Confirmed my suspicions that the old electrical gauge was reading low rather than anything more serious - old gauge 3 bar on start up and under 1 bar on tick over, although was moving between 2-3 when the engine was revved or under load, but was still a bit of a worry Much more healthy 65psi on start up on new mechanical gauge and 20-22 psi on tick over at 90 degrees and the fan cutting in and full sweep between the 2 when under load in normal blatting

Thanks guys

I've finally decided to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my 1992 Supersport - got sick of the variable readings from the electronic gauge which seems to have a mind of its own (getting on a bit like me and has good days and bad days) Now for the really stupid question - after plumbing everything thing, I assume I will have to bleed the system at the gauge end to get the air out and oil in the tube - correct ?

I've finally decided to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my 1992 Supersport - got sick of the variable readings from the electronic gauge which seems to have a mind of its own (getting on a bit like me and has good days and bad days) Now for the really stupid question - after plumbing everything thing, I assume I will have to bleed the system at the gauge end to get the air out and oil in the tube - correct ?

I've finally decided to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my 1992 Supersport - got sick of the variable readings from the electronic gauge which seems to have a mind of its own (getting on a bit like me and has good days and bad days) Now for the really stupid question - after plumbing everything thing, I assume I will have to bleed the system at the gauge end to get the air out and oil in the tube - correct ?

My 92 car is the same as Aeroscreens and sits on top of the bracket

FIAT/MARELLI 63321238 ALT4221 That's what it looks like

https://www.woodauto.com/range/Alternators Stephen Try Woods Auto - they have around 8,000 alternators and starters - I reckon with the barcodes etc, they'll be able to match you with something

I got a set of Magnecor leads a few years ago - a bit pricey but very good (on a 92 1400 Supersport)

Maybe - 220 miles is getting seriously squeaky bum time - generally I refuel at around 200 mile mark and around 30 litres, bit under so I reckon 30/31ish - still better than when I had a Mk2 RX7 - 185 miles out a tank if you really went for it - circa 16/17 mpg - even general drving around 23/24m.pg was typical - mind you those were the days when you could fill up a big tank for under £40 - in the days when you mainly had red nozzles on the forecourt

Blimey 38mpg out of 1600 k series - My 1400 Supersport is nowhere near that - 200-220miles out of tank and that's about it (and that's with areoscreens so less wind resistance) - mind you I don't hold back on revving the arse off it (engine sweet spot is 5,300-7,500) and rarely use dual carriageways/motorways and therefore 5th is rarely used

Sounds like Bad earth FIA switch if one is fitted playing up A short or a combination of all 3I've just solved a long running intermittent problem with a 1992 1400 K series Supersport where it would cut out and it seemed all electrics just turning themselves off and once I'd coasted to the side fo the road (occassionally it would bump start, but not always), I found absolutely zip power was getting to the starter motor and I was stranded. Sometimes once it had cooled down it would start or bump start, but not always, often to only fail again a few miles later on - was really spoiling the enjoyment of Sevening, and electrics has never been my strong suit After much mucking around, trying to find voltage drops (no massive single drops found but not brilliant and of course it never cut out on the the drive when your testing the system only generally when I was in deepest Worcestershire, Herfordshire or Wales miles from anywhere !!)) I found (or should I say we, as I enlisted the help of Sunnyside garage in Kempsey, who are a really good general garage):- Cowling at the back of the starter motor - one of the bolts holding it in place had sheared (completely dropped out in fact) and the metal cowling was wobbling about and we think possibly could have been shorting things. Starter solenoid was fried - had the starter refurbed (it was a magnetron) with new solenoid and above Cowling fixing fixed - £90 Found all the wiring around the starter pretty stiff and inflexible so replaced all main cables from to Battery, FIA, and starter and wiring between starter relay (the k click fix had been already been done), battery and starter and its solenoid and all main earthing cables from battery to block, and block to engine mount - not sure this was absolutely necessary, but I was so sick of the problem and given the age of the wiring, and the heat coming of the exhaust primaries thought in for a penny, in for a pound. Wrapped the exhaust primaries to reduce heat in the engine bay as a longer term solution.Have done circa 500 miles since then (only finished the work a couple of weeks ago) and it hasn't missed a beat so seemed to have cracked it. Starter absolutely whizzes into life now, far better than ever before (I always thought it was a bit sluggish cold and even worse hot) and I've had the car 5 years - I guess mine was probably a combination of all of the above. P.S. I had first checked the FIA switch to check that wasn't cutting power off, as I'd heard those can go, but that wasn't the problem in my case - also checked the alternator and alternator wiring and that was OK, had battery tested and it wasn't that either, nor the ignition switch or immobiliser - just went through process of elimination Also look at the very useful piece by Revilla on Techtalk a few weeks ago looking for voltage drops as you may find a wiring condition problem or short (not sure how old your car is) albeit this is specifically for k-series cars (not sure what engine you have) - may help pin point the exact problem rather than the full scale assault route I took

Thanks 7WOTW - in a wet sump the only way I can see through to the sump would be through the drain plug, and as noted in #1, both the pressure and temp parts of the gauge in this example work on capillary tubes with I assume the measuring sensors being in the dial itself - although I'm not too bothered with an electrical sensor off the drain plug, a capillary tube off there seems to be asking for trouble in such an exposed area - could become severed and you'll lose your oil (maybe slowly but could happen). However you have made me think about how accurate the temp reading would be in such as set up - surely there would be some temperature loss in the tube between the sump and the dial especially in winter. I may be talking balls (I'm an accountant after all and use to that !!), so maybe the ideal system would be a mechanical pressure gauge and separate electrical temperature gauge. Alternatively I could just stop fretting about the actual reading on my current worry gauge and take comfort that at least it flicks 2 bar between low and high points when revved and it just under reads a bit (I reckon between 0.5 and a bar)

Thanks Andy - that seems a more suitable place. I've got to do a full oil service anyway (oil, filter and baffle - let's not start on the latter) over the next couple of weeks so I'll have a proper root around then to see if I can see any extra hex plugs on mine.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/racetech-oil-pressure-oil-temperature-dual-gauge-247037/ Hi all I've found the electrical oil pressure gauge on my 1992 1400 Supersport always to be somewhat erratic and currently seems to be all over the place and would guess the sender may be the problem. I know a lot of people recommend replacement with a mechanical gauge and although saw a "Caterham kit" on demon tweaks for a pressure gauge, I also saw a dual oil pressure and temperature gauge per link above. Does anyone have any experience of these - any good or a waste of time How do you plumb in the temperature bit - through a T piece where the current electrical sender is and take both the pressure and temperature capillaries from there or a sump plug conversion for the temperature bit. Neither seems ideal - the former as I would guess this could affect the readings of one or both, the second due to the exposure of the sump worries me, with the potential for the capillary tube to be damaged/ sliced from objects being thrown up Any thoughts welcome

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/racetech-oil-pressure-oil-temperature-dual-gauge-247037/ Hi all I've found the electrical oil pressure gauge on my 1992 1400 Supersport always to be somewhat erratic and currently seems to be all over the place and would guess the sender may be the problem. I know a lot of people recommend replacement with a mechanical gauge and although saw a "Caterham kit" on demon tweaks for a pressure gauge, I also saw a dual oil pressure and temperature gauge per link above. Does anyone have any experience of these - any good or a waste of time How do you plumb in the temperature bit - through a T piece where the current electrical sender is and take both the pressure and temperature capillaries from there or a sump plug conversion for the temperature bit. Neither seems ideal - the former as I would guess this could affect the readings of one or both, the second due to the exposure of the sump worries me, with the potential for the capillary tube to be damaged/ sliced from objects being thrown up Any thoughts welcome

Excellent stuff Andy as ever and very useful - printed out and filed for future reference

Thanks guys Got it refurbed in the end - motor and gearing was checked and was in good shape -, solenoid a bit fried and was replaced with additional heat shielding round it and the cowling/plate attachments all fixed - £95 quid all in so saved myself a few quid - should be back Monday/Tuesday. I'm intending to wrap the exhaust primaries whilst the starter motor is off from block to side skin in titanium lava rock exhaust tape to reduce heat in the area which hopefully should avoid problems going forward - some say it may also help performance although not the primary reason. Much of the wiring around the the starter motor seems a bit stiff and brittle and given it probably the original wiring from 29 years ago, I may as well rewire at the same time and replace all the main cables (use the cash I've saved on the starter motor). Proper Job

Hi All 1992 1400 Supersport with Magnetron starter motor - back plate housing bolt and threaded screw shaft seem to have long since gone on one side just leaving a hole and the back plate housing is rattling around and I think causing shorting Choices seem to be either to have the magnetron starter refurbed or go for, it would seem, a Brise or Wosp replacement which seem to be circa £250 ish. Starter is quite old although seems to work OK when cold and its not shorting Is refurbing worth it ? any idea on cost ? Any other recommended replacements

#3 - I can vouch for Kevin as well, the quality of the product and value for money I went down to the factory on a Friday afternoon with old dampers and springs in hand back in 2017 and he knocked me a full set of damper and springs at very reasonable price - single adjusters for road use - I went for 250 Ib on front and 150Ib rears and have been very pleased with them (they were replacing 300ib front/200Ib rears, which I found a bit solid for road use). They are on a 1992 1400 Supersport

Interesting comments on torque, and having one of the first 1400 Supersports I know about lack of torque with nothing much happening before 4,500 revs - but for me that is the point - dropping into 2nd at around 40-45, and hitting 70+ before the change up light comes on and using very bit of the 130 ish BHP generally every time I go out in Delilah is why I love the car - I don't drive it the same as my everyday tin top and there's the fun and why I have it. I guess it's down to horses for courses - do you want one which you are revving the balls off to get every last bit of performance out of safely, or one where there is loads of performance in reserve, which you are unlikely to need or use, or if you do (at least on the road) endanger headrows and your license. Yes - now I've got used to it, I probably would like a bit more power, but agree with the Caterham guy quoted that 130-180 is the sweet spot given the age of the basic car/chassis design and having no idiot saving "get out of jail free" safety devices to save you from yourself.

If you're building a garage from scratch including foundations, have you thought in incorporating an inspection pit in the floor. Can build it the correct depth to suit your height so you can work under the car stood up - must be cheaper than a car lift