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Tyres rotating on wheels


Roger Ford

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At Cadwell last weekend, a friend's mechanic had put lines on the wheels and new tyres to show any slippage. We sniggered at this display of over-zealousness.

 

We didn't snigger when he came back in after quali, and the lines were out by some inches on the rears. Subsequently I put similar marks on mine, and found my rears had rotated significantly during the first race - as had his.

 

Is this normal? It would seem like it should put the wheel balance out, though when we discussed this with George Polley he reckoned the balance was mostly down to the wheels rather than the tyres, so it shouldn't make much difference.

 

These are 13 inch Yoko 48s on Caterham 8-spoke anthracite wheels.

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This is a common problem when tyres run at the lower pressures we use on light cars.

 

In my early motorsport days doing car trials, where pressures as low as 12-15psi were normal, we used to drill the steel rim in several places on inner and outer edges and screw self-tappers into the tyre bead! Crude but effective.

 

Phil B

 

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One of the many reasons we changed over to tube less tyres to stop the tyre turning then ripping the valve from the tube. Forty years back i spot welded tractor rims to snag the bead to reduce this when ploughing. Have also done it to my BSA scramble bike and also had security bolts to nip the tyre beads to the rim which helped
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Interesting. I will have to test this now too.

 

I wonder if Cadwell is particularly bad for this, as every time you go over the mountain the rear wheels unload and then reload, and if anything is going to move the tyre it's that sort of thing ...

 

Was there any movement on the fronts? That would be braking driven (I would guess).

 

Jez

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Wild Bill - it may be that you have 'Tubs' (Tubulars) rather then 'clinchers'.

Tubs are glued to the wheel rims (or with special double sided tape) and basically have the inner tube sealed within the tyre.

Lot of pro teams will use tubs and majority of track (velodrome) riders will use them (can inflate to higher pressures, tend to be lighter and offer the rider more control if punctured)

This shows the difference:

here

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From fitting hundreds of motorcycle off road tyres I always use washing liquid mixed with water on the rims and tyres, it gets absorbed by the tyre in a short time.

 

You need it to get the tyre bead on to the rim, and its a sod to get the bead off again a week later.

All the rims use bead locks to lock the tyres in place, one for the front two for the back.

 

If it moves it rips the valve out of the tube, its also a good idea to elongate the valve hole in the rim and never tighten the locking nut allowing the valve to move to about 45 deg without ripping it out.

 

When its at a angle to straighten it up again let out the air and loosen the rim lock,

put the bike on the stand and rev the bike in forth gear and jam the brake on and the tyre will move a bit Repeat until its straight again.

 

I was doing a race once when my rim lock broke and I ripped my valve out, there was no point in stopping.

It was like riding a automatic the rim was spinning in the tube and smoking, then all the wire came out of the tyre and got caught in the chain and sprocket and rapped around the hub.

More power and snapped the wires so I finished with not much tyre left on the wheel.

Chris. *wavey*

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