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6 speed box ratios


Grim Reaper

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You will be very lucky to find a 3.14 as the are THE ratio for the Busa Boys 😬

 

You will pay a huge premium for them IF and I'll say I'FF again you can find one.

 

Hens teeth would be easier.

 

However - I do have a 3.38 available *wavey*

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I used to think that my 7 was high revving, but have got used to it over time.

 

However I have noticed that some of the newer superminis (Corsa, Fiesta and Mini) all rev pretty highly, with the Corsa revving the same as my Caterham (both in top). I presume this is something to do with EU5 efficiency requirements?

 

Steve

 

 

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To be honest, I've always thought the ratios in the 6 speed box are wrong for road use, far to closely packed together and as has been said, a direct 1.1 6th gear is far too low for today's long distance driving, unless you like your engine revving its' nuts off for hour after hour?

 

If you raise the back axle ratio, either by changing the diff. or putting larger diameter tyres on, you then raise first gear, so it becomes to long for slow traffic and even pulling away will need a bit more clutch slipping. Not good.

 

So all in all, the ratios are wrong for today's torquey Duratecs [possibly Sigmas too, but I don't know much about them].

 

So many people get seduced by the number of gears and automatically think that if it's got six speeds it must be good - wrong. In my humble opinion, nothing beats a well modified 5 speed box, with a long first and second, then third fourth and fifth as standard. The change can also be improved and with the addition of a 'quick shift' lever, it is as good as anyone can want. That is exactly what I've done over the years, even on my CSR 260 [actually, particularly on the 260, if ever there was an engine that didn't need ultra close ratios, that is it!]

 

There are always people who like shifting all the time, but the novelty wears off after a time, and you find yourself missing out a gear, what price 6 speeds then?

 

 

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Quoting Bradders: 
Sorry for the highjack. Is it complex job putting a quick shift in Paul?

Gear knob off, tunnel cover off, three bolts to remove lever and that's about it! Very simple if you've not got a handbrake or any other trim type stuff on the tunnel.

 

There is a DiY method on DVA's website. I changed my old-style Sierra type to a rose-jointed sort, as well as moving the knob down a bit (ooer), and even without actually driving the car it feels a lot better.

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speak to Steve @ SPC, he was looking at different ratios for the 6 speeder *thumbup*, alternatively ask him to build you an alloy cased 5 speeder with his helical cluster and use the optional .82 5th.

 

Another sevener did the later he retained his 3.62 final drive and it made for a cracking car with a tall cruising gear for his trips thro France.

 

 

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I'm already running 15" 205 R888's so I don't think that there's much to be gained on the available tyres route. I get just under 4000rpm at 70, the engine will rev to 8500 (210bhp DVA'd K) and there's plenty of torque to play with but trying to keep the fuel consumption down on long runs is the aim.

Currently getting around 30mpg on constant 70mph tankfuls

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GR, on the assumption you have an emerald, you could always speak to the 2 steve's and get a map developed specifically for motorway cruising and using the emerald 3-way map switch, I discussed this with them when they mapped mine (which sounds a very similar spec to yours).

 

Graham.

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I do have the K6 Emerald, with a 3 position map switch, linked up to a TechEdge WBO2 wideband controller and a Bosch LSU 4.9 lambda sensor. On the trip down to Stoneleigh at the beginning of the month I used the 'eco' setting where target AFR is set as around 14.7 at cruise, got there 178 miles with 10 litres left on the gauge, on the way home I used 'norm' setting where target AFR was set a bit richer and got home again with 13 litres on the gauge.

Can't begin to explain that outcome.

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