Garth

Thanks Jonathan I have not used it for a few years so cannot remember the finer details of what it was doing exactly! Am going to take the car out with a friend and try it to remind myself of how it was behaving. Can tell you I started off with a Baofeng UV-5R, then tried a Wouxun KG-639E and then a Kenwood TK-3501. Still have them all so will try them all again! Will report!

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Have never been able to use a walkie talkie successfully in my car - Sigma with Emerald ECU - when stationary they work fine but as soon as I am on the move everything goes pear shaped with intermittent reception and no transmission! Can anyone recommend an Auto Electrician who I could talk to about trying to sort out the issue? Anyone had similar issues? Thanks Garth

Not come across them but I have a Titan LSD for a ford diff which has been rebuilt by Road and Race so like new. could let you know what the ramp angles etc are if you are interested and decide to go for a Titan! Good luck

Why nit replace the plastic screw with something more substantial - probably something with a bit of steel in it? Mine have worked fine for 12 years - Think mine is fixed with a popper?

I will have it thanks - will send PM with address... Garth

Hi Kimble Am interested - not too far from you - could I pop over and have a look - have sent you private mail with my telephone number! Cheers Garth

I am hoping to try and get decent communication between a couple of cars on our upcoming trip to Sardinia. I have always tried using a cheap Baofeng unit but not been good! Cannot find anything on BlatChat, but recall people speaking highly of a Kenwood unit? Any suggestions welcome please and then also on how to get it 'programmed' to the frequency the club use? Thanks Garth

I asked for a set on facebook - just making sure my order is registered!! Garth

I would do it yourself. On your drive to the testing center use the brakes as much as possible - mine failed first time round due to 'uneven' braking. There was nothing wrong with them - just needed to be 'bedded' in a little?

Hi Ivaan - could I have the charger please.... Thanks Garth

I use an old BJ A-Max for my SV - very snug fit - I have lips on the edge of the trailer, so has to fit within! BJ make different size trailers, so you will need to look at the bed size of the particular trailer. If it is a flat bed and the wheels overhang by a couple of mm you should be ok (he says tentatively!) Have not got the exact dimensions of my trailer to hand. Good luck!

I will have the diff please

Have sent you private mail Colin

Personally I just think the wider tyres on the back look more purposeful so that did it for me! Good choice me thinks!!

Will look them up thanks Will probably get someone to do it all as difficult to get the body somewhere without the wishbones!! I am keen to get all the sharp edges rounded off slightly for better paint adhesion!

Wishbones and other exposed bits now rusting quite a bit. Planning to have wishbones off - coating stripped off, re-bushed and then re-coated. Also want to address any rust on the chassis. Will be a winter project and would like to find someone with a good eye for detail who will do a proper job re-coating etc. Suggestions here please! Thanks Garth

I will have them Phil - should have picked them up when I saw you on the wekend!! Garth

Have a Rapfix which is superb - self centering and still as solid as the day I fitted it 10 years ago! Had a look through the go-race website and the description and a few pics suggest it uses a similar system to the Rapfix, but not come across it before. It does not appear to have as many 'locking bearings' as the Rapfix. When I got mine it included the the upper part of the steering column already welded to the shaft, so was a very easy fit! Just noticed that the link to the one you are looking at includes the steering column! Good luck

Where did that cover come from Guy? I was advised to run my tyres at between 45 and 50 psi - chap I spoke to had a table of recommended pressures for tyres depending on the tyre size and trailer load. Suspect your trailer manufacturer would also be able to advise? Was told that broadly speaking over inflation will lead to premature tyre wear (centre of tyre) and the trailer being a bit 'bouncy', but unlikely to lead to tyre failure whereas under inflation more likely to lead to tyre failure as tread blocks move around more leading to overheating and then delamination?

I use a specialist to fabricate stainless steel suff for me - let me know if you do not have any success and I will ask him.

Thanks for the comments - the brakes seem to be behaving themselves, but will keep an eye on that - had a thorough service recently and was given a clean bill of health! I suspect my tyres were duff as you suggest Rob - see comments about inflation below. My son replaced all the tyres in Scotland and has just driven back to London without any issues, although it poured with rain the whole journey so not likely to have been problems with overheating? We checked the tyre pressures on the three remaining original tyres before replacing them and they were all over inflated which suggests the others which failed (probably but obviously not conclusively!) were unlikely to have be under inflated. I have come to the conclusion that the tyres were duff and were fine for the short journeys we have done to date, but did not fancy a long journey! Also worth noting that the 140/70 R12 tyres that BJT recommend can be replaced with 155/70 R12's which are about 15mm wider and 21mm larger in diameter! There are many more tyres available in this size with more choice of load index etc. Now to get a new mud guard!

Only tyres we could get hold of in Scotland from the tyre place in Fort William were 'Greenlander'. Spoke to a very helpful tech chap at Wheel Solutions who supply BJT tyres. He said that the 155/70 R12C is a 'commercial' Spec tyre with a load rating equating to 900kg and that with 4 wheels on the trailer even the cheaper brands would be fine! Going to have to sort out the height of my tow bar - on two cars! Other thing I have discovered is that the weight at the tow bar is dependent on the car rather than the trailer (obvious I guess!) - so need to adjust the Caterham position on the trailer for each car! Have ordered a 'nose weight gauge' for the trailer - cheap at £35! Thanks again all.

Thanks again for the comments - just had another call with BJT after struggling to get hold of the 140/70 R12 tyres they recommend - they have now confirmed that 155/70 R12's will fit, which I assume means 145/70's will also fit. Now to try and find some with high load capacities. Will make sure the tyre pressures are correct!

Thanks for the comments will look at ones with higher load capacity - BJT say as long as the size is correct don't need to worry about the 'sort' of tyre! Still seems odd - the trailer was stored on blocks in a shed before I got it and the tyres are only 5 years old. Not sure I understand why most of the weight is on the front - would it not be fairly equally shared, with the front and back tyres deforming slightly differently due to the relative position of the axles? Will do some work on google!