Grim Reaper

Ah, I see why there's no reply, vehicle is Sorned and not MoT'd

Spotted today heading out of town, I was in the van on the grass verge.

Heatshrink tubing. You have to take the tie rod ends off to do this but once off, run a length of good quality heatshrink tubing over the rods, replace ends and shrink it down once you've reset the tracking. You never have to do it again.

One thing to watch out for that I noticed the other day, on the insulated terminals anvils, the yellow and blue dots are in the wrong places, the yellow dot should be on the largest / innermost position to get the most crimping force for the larger yellow terminals.

I bought a couple of the G6 H4 LED lamps off Cindy from Evitek via Alibaba a few years ago, https://evitekhid.en.alibaba.com/product/60501482019-802326993/H4_LED_headlight_canbus_version_xenon_kit_high_lumen_hi_lo_beam_single_beam_hot_sell_china_factory_motorcycle_headlight_bulb.html I have these lamps fitted in the Seven, my Tintop and my KTM 690, they needed a bit of adjustment to get the beam patterns right, mainly needing rotating to get the orientation exactly the same as a H4 bulb. I have just ordered a further 2 sets of lamps off Cindy, one set of their F2 lamps and one set of their G7 lamps. F2 https://evitekhid.en.alibaba.com/pr..._Car_HeadlampBulb_6500K_Car_Headlamp_Led.html G7 https://evitekhid.en.alibaba.com/pr...pm=a2700.8304367.prewdfa4cf.23.34b662be1xu2Gi The F2's are the latest, very closely emulating the positioning and dimensions of the original H4. the G7's are an update to the G6's with better heat dissipation and the fan has been removed and a large heatsink is fitted instead, these look like the one's listed in the links earlier in the thread. Both these newer lamps have allowances for fine tuning the rotation to suit whatever reflector they are installed into. I will be trying the two different types out in Tintop and Seven when they arrive. The F2's were $39.52 ( I paid for them to be shipped separately to avoid customs fees), the G7's were $46.28. At the bottom of the Alibaba page there's an 'email to this supplier' box, It may have Haily or Vicky Huang, or Cindy Zhou as the recipient, all coworkers, either deal with Haily / Vicky or mention Cindy and they'll pass your details across to her. She'll give you a price, you give her an email address to raise a paypal invoice against, she will need delivery address and contact number off you. Tell her Dave Pratt sent you.

I bought this kit from Banggood when it was on pre-order discount https://www.banggood.com/Paron-JX-D5301-Multifunctional-Ratchet-Crimping-Tool-Wire-Strippers-Terminals-Pliers-Kit-p-1175325.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN The wire strippers have proved irritating and disfunctional but the crimpers are pretty good. Recently been using them to wire up a new Emerald ECU plug and the crimps have been spot on. They do a just crimpers kit https://www.banggood.com/JX-D4-Multifunctional-Ratchet-Crimping-Tool-Pin-Plug-Spring-Terminals-Clamp-Kit-p-1104438.html?rmmds=detail-left-hotproducts__4&cur_warehouse=CN

Bugger, it will let you Ctrl-V the link without opening up a second window, but if you right click and choose paste it opens the second window?? Either way, if the words 'Enable rich-text' are not in the bottom left hand corner, the picture will not appear in your post. We don't have the same issues with XenForo on advrider, that forum software remembers which post you looked at last time and takes you to the next one.

et voila! Rich text enabled (or is it disabled? anyway, click the bit at the bottom of the box where it says Disable rich-text) and the embed links off Flickr now work. (note that I don't get the second window opening up when I Ctrl-V the link) I will edit my first post to detail the correct process for either first post or subsequent posts.

I have found that if I start a thread I can post an embed link into my first post and it posts the picture, but any subsequent posts it doesn't work?

Answer found, ensure the 'Enable rich-text' wording is in the bottom left-hand corner before pasting the embed link.

Yup, that's weird, it lets me post straight into my first post box, but when I do it on a subsequent post it screws it up?? <a data-flickr-embed="true" href=" title="P1000687"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/522/19096006475_e0435fee77.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1000687"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Hmm, it didn't work that time?? I'll try again on a new post thread, maybe it only lets you link on a first post?

In Flickr, I just copied the link in the embed option (begins < a data - flickr) and pasted it straight into the comment box, no picture url links or anything like that. You do get a window opening up that requires you to paste it again and click OK. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href=" title="P1000687"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/522/19096006475_e0435fee77.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1000687"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> Still got the GSA, but the KTM is even higher seat height than this behemoth. tiptoes only.

Use the 'embed' link option on flickr, this one is medium 500x333 This only works if you are the thread opener and it's the first post. For any subsequent posts you need to click the 'Disable rich-text' button at the bottom left-hand corner then you can paste the embed link in the comments box. If you get a window opening up asking you to paste the link again, it won't work, go back and ensure you have a window with 'Enable rich-text' in the bottom left-hand corner.

I tried my best to get the picture to embed but it wouldn't do it for me.

I fitted BMW side repeaters in the sideskin lower half about halfway down the bonnet length. Fitted them in reverse orientation to how they are on the BMW's i.e. left one on right hand side. Passed SVA. No damage to cycle wings or trouble feeding wires out to them. https://flic.kr/p/21HfGwo

Had some Protech dampers on my Mini Cooper Sport (coilover conversion from cone & trumpets) Rubbish! Damper rods seized up in the alloy tubes.. Replaced them with Spax, far more robust. I have Nitrons on my seven, been faultless once they were valved correctly.

I have Nitron shocks on my 2003 superlight, out of the factory they were extremely over damped for the road going seven. Peter 'Petrolhead' Ellis had Nitron revalve his shocks a couple of times as he had a bad back that was being worsened by their effects, once he was happy with them I had mine revalved to the same settings and they made the world of difference. I currently run in the lower (under 10 clicks) range and have no issues with the damping on standard Nitron springs (can't remember the spring rates at the moment but 225/140 comes to mind) I'm in Teesside too and have a flat floor setup rig in the garage if you feel the need to check and adjust anything.

Thanks Ian, any help is good at this stage.

That would be great thanks, it would at least give us somewhere to start. as an aside, do you know the degree btdc that the crank position sensor sits at? I think it's 80 but it could be difficult to work out without splitting block & gearbox to look at the flywheel as there doesn't appear to be a hole to look through to count teeth. pm sent to give an email address.

Converting a 1.4 Zetec SE engine (Fiesta) from standard ECU to a Megasquirt 2 v3.3 and we're having trouble locating a base map for it. Does anyone have one they'd be willing to share or know anyone that may have one?

The cheapest version of it I can get for +/-£130, max 15cfm, autodrain and no ongoing costs. Desiccant driers need media changes and time to dry used media out. Refrigerated dryers are prohibitively expensive for home workshop.

Looking to sort out some kind of air filter drier for my compressed air system in my garage. I need to do some paint spraying soon and having experienced the grit/glass in my blasting cabinet going clumpy I know that there is enough water in the compressor output to cause issues when spraying paint. I came across the PCL Dropout system that claims to remove 99.99% of water from the air with no maintenance costs, this is also a lot cheaper than going down the refrigerated drier or desiccant type drier route but can't believe everyone wouldn't be using it if it was that good. So, has anybody got any real life experience with this kit?