Grim Reaper
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Everything posted by Grim Reaper
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I know why they're bent (bloody awkward timing marks) but why it's always the same cylinder that gets it i don't know.(ingested captive nut at birth which bent three valves in that cylinder now these two in the same one) I'll try the screwdriver trick in the morning, if not, I might have to drop into a local garage and borrow one of the proper tools. By the way, I used Bicarbonate of Soda in a shot blasting gun to clean the piston tops up today and (apart from one that is peppered because of the previously ingested nut 10 years ago) they came up so clean they look like new, can even see the circular machining lines on the surface.
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Well, I've taken all the valves out, and it looks like I've got two bent intake valves (again ) so I think I'll get a set of Paul Ivey exhaust valves when I get the replacement inlets. Anyone know how to get the valve stem oil seals out?
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See here
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Ah, I think I know where you mean,I'll have a look when I get the springs out
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I have my head in bits at the moment giving it a refresh and check over, and on removing the head and cleaning up the combustion chamber/valves I have found one of the Exhaust valves that doesn't appear to be the same design(?) as the rest. It seems to have been mis-cast in that it has a raised ring on the face rather than a dimple in the surface like the rest and it is quite a rough cast finish. Seeing as a new set of valves will set me back less than £50 I have thought about a set of these here or these here but they seem to have three grooves on the stem whereas I believe the one's I have only have one (not got the valves removed from the head yet) Is there any problem using these or should I stick with original parts?
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Was there a solution to this oil retention problem? I have my head in bits at the moment so can drill holes where necessary if it's as simple as that.
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A little update on the soda blasting...after a bit of fettling to reduce the amount of soda it was picking up (and promptly turning the surroundings into a scene from Winter Wonderland) Wow! it cleaned all the carbon off the cylinder head in a jiffy. Leaving a shiny, unmarked surface on the combustion chamber and valves (except one of the exhaust valves which looks like it has been mis-stamped somehow) Valves out tomorrow and I can clean the ports up the same way too. Next step the pistons.
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Another for Brake Cleaner. I'm in the middle of cleaning my engine up, used a paraffin gun (with paraffin) to get the black oil off it first, then a can of brake cleaner (from Toolstation) to get the paraffin off. Next step is to try Sodium Bicarbonate in a blasting gun to get it really clean before a light coat of clear laquer to try to keep it easily recleanable. 25kg of Alkakarb from local Farm Supply store for just over £12 should do that and a lot more (such as gearbox, diff, throttle bodies etc etc) Edited 'cause I can't spell for toffee. Edited by - Grim Reaper on 5 Feb 2014 19:12:22
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Sikaflex 291 (windscreen bonding sealant/adhesive)?
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Ah, sussed it... the kit is marked as Left Hand only because there is a hub nut supplied with it, this will only fit the LH Side, the RH Side is a LH thread.
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In my case, a 2003 vintage S3 DeDion superlight, the bearing are 4x JL68145 - JL68111Z Timken Set#24. If you search for L68145/L68111Z (not L68111 as I believe this a smidge smaller OD and its partner L68149 is a smidge smaller ID too) you should find them.
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I think stiffer will make it understeer,softer will make it oversteer. I could be wrong.
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The hole is 10mm to allow the nipple to go straight through, it will not go through an M10 nut (I tried) the threaded part of the cable just sits within the bush, adjustment is via two nuts on the cable already, I don't think they will come off over the nipple (knowing that I can't get an M10 nut over it from the other direction)
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Forget it, they emailed me today and said they only have 2 left They are cheap in Germany (€1.90) but postage even for 10 is more than the cost of the parts I can't believe Amazon want £12.45 EACH Caterham are £5.40 each so I'll see what Redline want for them.
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I was going to order a few nylon bushes 50mm high with an outside diameter of 22mm and inside diameter of 10.4mm 10.4mm ID would leave a lot of slack, the thread is M10 and the nipple is almost exactly 10mm wide. Wall thickness would be getting a bit thin too unless you're planning on making the hole on the block bigger.
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See, I've lost it already!
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I'd be tempted to go for a 22mm holesaw from the off IF you need it to be in a specific location on the bar, the risk of the hole wandering off centre increases with use of different, increasing sized individual drills. Large twist drills tend to create trilobe holes. With a holesaw, providing it's done slow and steady with lubricant, and you get the arbor in the right place first time, the hole will be less likely to wander. Clamp it down firmly though. 22mm holesaw in this set from Toolstation here
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Do you need something like this here
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Having just blagged 7 Timken rear wheel bearings for £8.26 each delivered from Chicago on ebay, I found Rockauto selling the oil seals for £1.43 each instead of £8-£11odd elsewhere. Part Number NB655 here in case anyone is in need of some.
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Make a couple because I'll probably have lost mine by the time I get it back together again.
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Went to Halfords, asked if they sold spokes.. 'What do you want them for?' (like they are under the counter items or something?) I produce one of my dial test gauges.. 'for this!' 'What's that for?' 'Measuring things!' 'Oh, 50p each.' 'I'll take three'... and they fit perfectly. Thank you Blatchat!
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If I get two dial gauges I can do both inlet and exhaust at the same time. Spokes...See i knew it wasn't a stupid question...Genius!
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I just happen to have my engine in bits in the garage so can do this for you quite easily.. Overall length 28.5mm Outside diameter of cylinder 12.5mm Inside diameter of cylinder 10mm Outside diameter of 'washer' 22mm 'Washer' thickness 3mm which makes the cylinder 25.5mm long
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Yes, I have a couple of analogue gauges already and found these were not easy to use (ie difficult to read and kept moving when I set zero pointer), so I've just ordered a pair of digital ones for the valves and I'll use one of the analogue ones for the TDC.
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I want to make some extended dial gauge pointers/styli to use when setting up valve lift, DVA's webpage mentions using tig wire. Not having a TIG welder I do not have any of this to hand. Can anyone tell me what type/diameter wire I should be looking for (1.6/2.4/3.2) and what the thread size is on a typical dial gauge end so I can find a tap to thread it so it will screw in in place of the existing tips? Or could I buy some threaded rod to do the same thing? Again I need a thread spec.
