Grim Reaper

Just received a new CRB today and have tried it on the gearbox nose for fit, it does but I have noted it feels a bit tight. Also the steel nose piece has wear marks from the old CRB on it. given it a rub down with some 1200 wet & dry b ut the wear marks are quite deep so don't want to remove them completely for fear of making it too loose. Is it acceptable to use some lubricant on the nose (thinking something like Graphogen) to help the CRB slide on it and try to minimise further wear?

Yes, they also do the same spec in a gold colour so it's easy to see flush through when changing fluid out.

Unfortunately that is just an avi of how to install the software. ☹️

Looking for a copy of version 131 software for the JLR Mongoose OBD cable. Seems that as versions are updated the earlier versions are overwritten but I need a copy of the earlier incarnation. Anyone able to assist?

Latest head gasket torquing requirements are 20Nm + 180* + 180* or 20Nm + 180* + 135* depending on manufacturers recommendations I understand this to be initial torque then two runs through the correct tightening sequence turning each bolt through the required angle.. Have read on an elise forum of someone doing it 20Nm + 90* + 90* + 90* + 45*. This sounds like 4 runs through the sequence. While I can see that this might reduce the amount of difference in areas of compression of the gasket between having bolts at differing torque (I know what I mean but can't think of a way to put it any better) is there really any benefit to doing it in smaller increments? Would some lubricant like ARP ultra torque lube assist in smoothing the inevitable cracking when starting to turn the bolts each time or not?

When the cam sprocket marks are in line, the mark on the bottom pulley should be in line with the mark on the belt cover that is in line with the centreline of the engine (NOT the multiple degree markings off to the left)

If you put it to the top and fit a bleed tee it helps to ensure airlocks are kept to a minimum.

I have a few of these here that seem to work just fine.

DoT 5.1 is the same standard set as DoT 5 but in a mineral form. The spec that Castrol React is failing is probably the viscosity spec which is 900mm2/s for 5.1. 5.1 is designed for ABS systems where fast flow is desirable to maximise ABS modulation capabilities. If you think your brakes are slow to release, try a thinner fluid. That's why I suggested the Shell ESL/Donax YB. It has a viscosity of 675mm2/s which is about as thin as they get.

I used a 'rubber' paint on the insides of the arches on mine to reduce the clattering sound of stone chips. I think Toolstation or Screwfix sell a similar product designed for roofing, it cures with moisture not evaporation of volatile thinner.

Forget about using DoT5 (silicone) fluids, they will not give a better performing system. Too many downsides to them (such as retaining bubbles of air) for them to be worth the change. Go for a good DoT4 such as Shell ESL or Donax YB for a lower viscosity fluid, or the ATE Super Blue Racing for one that is easy to see flushing through vs the usual clear fluids

If it's in a tin can it might be alright. If it's plastic, bin it.

Fits my Momo wheel just fine too

Before and after shots of the Acoustafil http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/12956247353/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/12956256193/ from the websitehere

If it's anything like my first Powerspeed can that had bolts at both ends of it, you will probably find that the centre perforated tube is welded to the front end, so trying to take the 'sleeve' off is impossible as it will need to be slid over the entire length of the centre tube.

Was that 'After' shot, AFTER the Acoustafil has expanded or before? Seems a little overpacked if it's before as I understand it expands by quite some amount.

The LSH6 is a just a 4 wire (2 sensor/2 heater) Narrowband sensor, you need a 5 wire (3 sensor/2 heater) LSU 4.0/4.2/4.9 for it to be a Wideband sensor but you will also require a Wideband Lambda Controller like a Techedge WBO2 2J9 or Innovate LC1 to allow it to connect to the ECU.

Well the Digital Torque Adapter came this morning, and I have compared it with two of the three wrenches I have so far, the smaller Norbar was under performing (at an indicated 40Nm it clicked at 36 on the adapter) while the large Lidl £15 special was spot on (set to 75Nm it clicked at 75Nm +/- 1Nm on repeated tests) Adjusted the Norbar to give a correct response via the allen key adjuster and it now clicks at indicated value +/-0.8Nm)

Well, I've ordered one, it should arrive by Tuesday so I'll use it to calibrate my existing wrenches and report my findings back. I have two Norbar twist end cap, (One small, one large) and a Lidl special large one I bought last year and which I leave set at 75Nm/55lbf for wheel nuts. We'll see if any of them need tweaking to bring up to spec. After this I will of course be offering torque wrench recalibration services for a modest charge.. 😬

I have a few normal torque wrenches already but not sure if any of them are really in spec/calibration (certainly the two I inherited from my Father have never been recalibrated since they were bought) Rather than sending them away to be calibrated I thought one of these could be useful, A to calibrate the wrenches I already have, and B use as it is instead of the wrenches if space precludes their use. Just wonder if anyone else has one and can comment on their usefulness.

If you send them back to Nitron, ask them to revalve them to the same spec as Peter Ellis (Petrolhead on here) I had mine done and they are just about as good as I could wish them to be.

Mann Filter W713/28 (Good for 1.6/1.8 K series including the 160) £2.66 each plus an additional 10% off if you use the promo code FILTER10 at checkout, FREE DELIVERY. See here

I didn't think they did the R500 in a build it yourself option? Those calipers look like the sierra rear single pots to me.

Yes that's what I can see is happening, I'll be getting the dremel out before it goes back together.

No, it's mechanical (1227 cams)