Grim Reaper

I found the Beeswax polish (with the yellow hive cap) for about £1.25 at Home Bargains.

Does the hose set include the heater valve to heater matrix pipes?? I'd be suprised if they did.

I believe the filler rubber hose is off the Rover 100/Metro

Ford Specific.. from Polevolt Or have a look at SBD's website here as there are variations. The Crank sensor could be Junior Timer or Econoseal. The Coil connector could be Oval or Rectangular. Injectors are generally EV1 Junior Power Timer. Edited by - Grim Reaper on 6 Jun 2014 17:03:29

They are known as Junior Timer connectors. I'll let you spend hours googling cheap sources of them. SimtekUK are reasonable for a complete kit.While AutoElectricSupplies are more bulk buy oriented. I dare say CBS, Polevolt, Demon Tweeks and JJC Rally do them as well as ebay. Edited by - Grim Reaper on 5 Jun 2014 19:22:41

Take a drive with a passenger and a sat nav, then have the passenger adjust the wheel size figure while on the move to match the GPS speed.

Do you have a figure for 'Lift at TDC'? If you do then you need to zero the dial gauge when the valve is closed and take the figure when the piston is at TDC. Advance or retard the vernier pulley in relation to its centre section to make this figure match with your 'Lift at TDC' figure. Or follow guide here Much the same.

There is always the option of making your own... http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/12075029666/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/12074397985/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/12074713303/

64mm high is the official motorcycle size, 59mm is 3/4 of the official car size which is 79mm. Maybe if you had requested motorcycle sized letters in a car format you would have got what you wanted. I have been using M/C size letters on my plates for the past 11 years and (touch wood) have had no problems. The plate sizes look right on such a small car. Edited by - Grim Reaper on 23 May 2014 15:27:34

Still looking for these adaptive settings, anyone know where I might find them?

Heat does soften thread lock. I have seen figures for the required temperatures somewhere and they are not that high that you'd need to get the bolt/nut glowing red. Heat is often used to release threadlocked bolts into alloy where it's not desireable to heat those up too much. Found Loctite Red succumbs at 550F/287C Edited by - Grim Reaper on 20 May 2014 11:36:17

The emissions test at MoT is governed by what it says on the V5 in the 'emissions' data. Section 7.3 of the MoT test manual, bottom right corner... Kit cars and amateur built vehicles first used on or after 1st August 1998 are required to obtain Single Vehicle Approval and should be tested to the limits stated on the log book / registration certificate. My V5 has no emissions data on it (2003 1.8k built and SVA'd by me) and at the last 3 or 4 MoT's where I have pointed this section out to the tester and shown him the V5, resulted in a visual smoke test only.

So they all seem to do it...I've cleaned up all the connections I can get at but the heater and instruments are on the same feed (teed at the heater switch) so this suggests that it's not a bad earth but the voltage drop caused by the heater pulling current causes the readings to go up/down depending on whether the senders go up/down in resistance. I've only noticed it because I'm using a very thin running in oil after a rebuild and have been paying particular attention to the oil pressure. Changing the oil for my usual stuff this weekend so I'll be less worried once that's done.

Could you do me a favour? Put Stack onto voltage option, and turn the heater on (with the engine running) What effect if any does the heater have on the voltage reading? And then does it have an effect on the oil tem and pressure readings as well?

If you have a 1/4" to hex bit adaptor like the shorter of the two here, often in socket sets with bits in them, you might be able to get a 1/4" spanner on the protruding hex end.

Don, I have a 1m breaker bar if you want to borrow it, or a decent pneumatic impact driver (450 ft/lb @90psi) if you have a compressor that is up to it.

You need an oscilloscope to test the output from the ECU to see what the waveform looks like and peaks at. If the signal is not up to spec then you'll get odd readings from the Stack. If the wiring from ECU connector to stack connector is fault free but you are still getting some form of signal from the ECU I'd suspect a pull up/down resistor has gone awol. You could use an LED with a suitable resistor (something like 130 ohms if the output is 5V up to 600 ohms for 14V output) [or try a 12v led] as a quick test light to see if there is ANY output (positive to tacho feed, negative to earth) and if the output is consistent and there are no pulses missing, but if this picks the signal up while the Stack doesn't you'd need the scope to be sure. Setting on dash is to account for number of pulses per rpm, if connected to a classic single coil/distributor setup you get 4 pulses per crank revolution, ECU tacho outputs usually only give 1 pulse per rev.

Quoting charlie_pank: Your comment didn't seem relevant While I read Quoting Culminator: First thing I noticed was that compared to all the other 7's, I was really struggling to hold on over fast bumpy roads on the journey down. as he was having trouble with bumpy roads, which is what uncorrected bump steer will give. I give up.

With absolutely no intention to ruffle your cloak: just because that worked for you, doesn't mean that's what's wrong for him, or that your 9mm adjustment would be right for him. Which is why I said "could be", "look into" and "not always right". I gave the details of what I did to my car as an example. I won't bother replying with any suggestions in the future if all people can do is flame them at the first opportunity. 😔

£4.84 delivered from ebay here

Could also be being affected by bump steer, look into the steering rack height (type and orientation of rack supports) as they are not always right. I fitted some 9mm blocks under my rack mounts and it made a dramatic difference to how the car behaved on bumpy roads.

I've been getting this since the last day of my european jaunt last year, still doing it now but it only seems to be at higher speeds and it does appear to be intermittent (first real run out this weekend since engine refresh). I'm going to try moving the sensor a bit closer to the hub bolts to see if that cures it.

Been down at Stoneleigh this weekend so not got much access to testers and tools. now home, will take the dash out and check it over along with the wiring and senders. A strange fault, only noticed it because it's the first run out since the rebuild and since I'm using running in oil for the first 500 miles or so I've noticed the oil pressure was a little erratic since it's so thin. Now I know it's not a problem I'll be less worried about it.

Cleaned that up, no difference. Have noted that same fuse feeds instruments and heater. Voltage reading on stack changes dramatically with heater fan turn on but not with headlights or radiator fan but multimeter on battery terminals doesn't change.

Think it may have been something else, on the way down to Stoneleigh I had a low oil pressure moment, and it seems that when I turn the heater fan on, the oil pressure goes down and the oil temp goes up suddenly?? As an additional twist, my speedo is reading erratically as well. Bad connection to the dash (Stack)? Earth or supply?