Richard K

#11 The bench seat and Pre S Type are interchangeable. The base cushion of the bench seat rest directly on floor between the back panel and the bar on the floor ie no movement. The Pre S Type runners bolt to a fixing at the rear and through the floor bar at the front. I think 'S Type' seats have a bolster supporting the thigh at front of the base. Paul - A length of oval hanging rail is the same size as the head rest bar. Might be a mm under sized but I tried in my seats and it fitted and 'gripped'. Richard

If the seat is moved forward the head rest can be fitted with it still in the car (just).

Paul The stem is 130mm in length and a flattened oval that mirrors opening in your seats. 15mm x 30mm The stem is held in place by 'pinch rollers' that you should be able to feel down the opening. When inserting the stem into the seat it a tight fit as I guess they are sprung and they stay at what ever height (if that makes sense). Richard

Paul The stem is 130mm in length and a flattened oval that mirrors opening in your seats. 15mm x 30mm The stem is held in place by 'pinch rollers' that you should be able to feel down the opening. When inserting the stem into the seat it a tight fit as I guess they are sprung and they stay at what ever height (if that makes sense). Richard

The seats you have are known as 'Pre S Type' l have the same seats including head rests. What do you need to know about them? Richard

I just 'turn off' the engine. Because of the small grill opening if you sit with a 'high' idle the fan will probably stay on. Not had a problem in 18 Years of ownership... Richard

I have a 1988 x/f with Girling master cylinder that is leaking. Seeing the post above I took it to 'Past Parts' as they were only an hour away from me (they are in Bury St Edmunds). They said that could carry out a complete refurbishment for about £120 + Vat. Turn around time 3 weeks. This unit stamped 74660152 039 is not interchangeable with the later AP master cylinders. Richard

Had mine repaired by a friend who is a plumber with 'solder'. He was not sure it would work but it's still working 6+ years on....... It can work. Richard

Sorry I don't have an answer but to be clear...... The engine will rev too 6000 when the car is stationary and not under load but when driving it starts to miss fire at 4000. Is it possible 'push through' or does the loss of power prevent this? Richard

Millers Oils - COR 20w50 Part Synthetic Richard

Had a look at the 123 Ignition site and it looks to be a good solution but only if you want / need to alter the advance curve. The Aldon Ignitor will replace the points at half the cost. The 3D mapping 'should' improve drivability / response because it uses a TPS. The down side is the additional cost espescially when you factor in the RR session (more than the 123 Ignition). It does have a built in rev limiter and can be used without the TPS but that means you will only be altering the advance characteristics. Horses for cources etc. Richard

Neil - The 3D mapping was fitted a few years after the initial Ignitor and coil. In addition you will also need to fit a Throttle Position Sensor and have the distributor 'locked down'. I could not get into the base of the distributor to attach the 'elastic bands' to stop the balance weights doing their thing so I sent it to Aldon who fixed them permanently. This means you will be without it for a few weeks. Over winter would be best!. Aldon did not have any 'maps' for a X/F and it comes with a stock 'safe map' installed so the car will run. I went to Track 'n' Road (The 2 Steve's) for a RR session. They had problems getting the software on the memory stick to be recognised by their computer so we ran it from my old lap top. As I said in my previous post, they had not seen it before but their impression was that it was fairly 'simple'.. I can't really really say that I have noticed a massive difference in drivability but this is probably because it could do with another RR session to fine tune it. On pure VFM - The Ignitor and coil will give a significant improvement in reliability. Once the timing is set it does not need adjusting. I think Nick Tapley was thinking of / or may have fitted one at about the same time. Richard

I fitted the Aldon Ignitor to my X/F about 8 or 10 years ago. It must the first version and I bought a new coil from Burton's at the time. It runs faultlessly and is fit and forget. I also fitted their 3D mapping at a latter date. This required the distributor to be sent away to Aldon to have the advance balance weights 'locked down' to get the best out of the system. (I was told by the '2 Steve's that it was OK but they had not seen it before). This was about 5 years ago. If I were you I would go for the basic Ignitor 1 and a new coil. This will be fine for everyday road use. Richard

I have the Aldon Ignitor 1 fitted to my car for over 10 years now. Easy to install but looking at their website there was not the 'range' of choice they now offer. Might be worth contacting them direct if you are thinking of using one. Richard

I had the 'standard' set up (coil and points but no electronic ignition) I replaced the points with an Aldon ignitor which uses a 'halo' ring inside the distributor. Once set never needed to re set the timing. Richard