Grim Reaper

Have you noticed the temperature reading going up and down a lot more? In a 4 mile journey through town yesterday I had everything from 89 to 105 on the dash. Wonder if the 'better' heat transfer of the evans is doing its thing when at idle and there's not much movement in the coolant.

Not the same as the fronts if you have vented discs there. The rear discs are actually the front discs off Triumph Spitfire and similar. There have been a few threads on changing rear discs and how best to approach it, usual requirement is to get some new disc to hub bolts before starting as their machined down heads tend to get chewed up during removal. alternative Edited by - Grim Reaper on 3 May 2014 08:22:54

Try Derby Performance Hose here

I did manage to find someone who could make the pipe long enough but I'm buggered if I can remember who. I think I found them on ebay but rang them up to get the longer length. I'll see if I can find the name for you.

Better specs given here Forward current If max=20mA I note that Farnells say the brightness is 2200mcd rther than 1600 at Maplins. If you'd prefer a yellow one, the maplins 5mm here whilst rated at 2100mcd there, is rated 3300mcd by Farnell, and is still 20mA If. Edited by - Grim Reaper on 24 Apr 2014 21:58:57

Battery turned up today but it is a smidge longer than both the Banner and the Yuasa, a little lower as well as there is a 10-12mm gap under the strap. I have flattened one end of the tray and trimmed a bit off it and rotated the tray 90 degrees and re-rivetted it in place, battery sits snugly in the tray and up against the bulkhead rail, fortunately my leads will reach the terminals OK.

Well, the battery turned up today, it wouldn't quite fit in the tray though so I've had to modify it slightly, turn it through 90 degrees and re-rivet it. Reloaded the maps and the config file and tried the starter with the fuel rail off and injectors tie wrapped in place and they fire away merrily. 😬 Refitted the rail and tried again....started first time No oil leaks, no coolant leaks (using Evans) and it sounds reasonably quiet mechanically so here's to running it in again..

here 1600mcd should be bright enough if it's in your eye line

I've just ordered an Enduroline 895 battery from Tayna to replace my current Yuasa 32A19RT(S) which replaced the original Banner when it gave up in the middle of France in 2006. so 8 years isn't too bad. I chose the 895 in order to have the terminals the other way around to the original so I can reverse it when in situ as there is a bit more room for the cabling to fit to the rear, but the 896 is the same arrangement as the Banner/Yuasa. It is 20mm higher than the Banner but higher rated at 32Ah and 310CCA and at £38.99 as opposed to the £54.02 for the Banner I reckon it's worth a try. Edited by - Grim Reaper on 23 Apr 2014 22:05:50

Emerald led is turning green so it is seeing the crank rotation. VVC motor so plug top coils. If it doesn't start now I've reloaded the maps (and I will reload configuration file too tomorrow) I'll be back for more suggestions.

The fuel rail pressures up on ignition on (connecting a 9v battery on a junior timer plug with a push button switch fires petrol into the air about 6 feet) so no issues with fuel pressure being off. The injectors fire ONCE when I hit the starter after ignition on, but subsequent attempts don't give anything (this is not a lack of pressure because I can get a half dozen fires with the tester as above) Not been able to try again today as fixing broken wire to the map selector switch initially then found garage roof leaking so I've been up there painting it with Roofix all afternoon New battery should arrive tomorrow so I'll try it then.

Any particular reason for using the 50 or 60 weight oils? Heavier weight does not necessarily equal better oil pressure/better protection. In fact too thick an oil can cause the opposite to expected, not able to flow to where it is required as easily can cause starvation in critical areas. Stick to the 5W40 in Fuchs Titan and I suspect you'll be just fine. Have a read of this Edited by - Grim Reaper on 21 Apr 2014 22:28:17

No, the fuel pump runs fine and there is no immobiliser fitted (at least not one that would have that effect). I THINK I may have answered my own question though... just been out and checked and it looks like the maps have been corrupted. there were some silly figures in the injection map and in the column headers so I've reinstalled them from the laptop. Will find out tomorrow if that was the problem. During testing I have also found a wire broken on the map switch wiring so that explains why position 2 seemed to have so much effect (it was not getting to earth via the resistor so looked like map 3) Will fix that in the morning too.

If the tank goes dry, the engine stops, the ECU stops the fuel pump. Requirements satisfied.

Dear Aunty Blatchat... Long one, stick with me here... Had my K series apart over the winter months (right down to crank out to change all the bearings) and have finally finished rebuild and installed it back into the chassis. Battery was flattened completely by an USB adapter left in the 12v socket but it has been out and on charge and get a green light on both Halfords and Optimate chargers. Tried to start it for the first time at the weekend, turned it over without plugs, coils or injectors connected to get oil pressure up, but starter gave up/battery went flat around the same time as pressure came up (about ten seconds), recharged battery (which gave a green light after around 10 mins-> first sign that battery is fubarred I think) Borrowed a Leisure battery off a mate, charged it up and connected in parallel via some (allegedly 400A) jumper cables yesterday, fuel pump is working OK, see fuel in return line (and proved good during later injector firing tests) engine turned over a couple of times and got a few pops and bangs and it ran for about 5 seconds then stopped, not been able to start it since. Both batteries go green on the chargers within 15 minutes from being unable to keep starter engaged, so suspect BOTH batteries are knackered, but also tried it connected to my car battery (Dodge Nitro Diesel so battery is rated at 700CCA) and still not starting 🤔 Took the plugs out and they are dry 🤔 Took the fuel rail off (and left coils disconnected so as not to cause a fire) and I get ONE squirt out of it ( but only if I turn the ignition off and on again, if I don't do this it gives nothing out), I'd expected to get multiple injector fires when cranking, is this right? I have connected a 9v test battery up to the injectors and can get them all to fire like this so the injectors themselves are OK. Connected a 12V led up to the injector plugs and I get a dim light BEFORE I start cranking, see one bright flash then just flickering off/on dim light. I didn't expect to see anything until I pressed the starter button here, is this right? The Emerald led goes from red to green on cranking (also tried a spare crank position sensor and this also turns Emerald green) checked that it doesn't go green if the sensor is left unplugged. Battery voltage drops to just over 10 volts when cranking (even when connected via jump leads to BOTH leisure battery AND running Nitro battery) Now I have a replacement battery on order but it will not be here until Wednesday. Can anyone confirm that the injectors should, and do, fire away merrily on the starter (and with the coils disconnected..I imagined they would be independant of each other) The Emerald/everything else is as it was when the car went into the garage in October. It was running at that time having just done 3500 miles around Europe and Scandinavia. I hope the new battery is the answer but why doesn't jump starting it work? and why no fuelling? (not checked sparks as yet since there is nothing to ignite but that will be my next test) Perplexed of Stockton on Tees.

I'm changing to Alumslip or Nickelslip instead of copaslip, better for stainless bolts into aluminium and useable pretty much everywhere copaslip is used.

Interesting that the flowchart here says that Kit Cars and amateur built vehicles post '98 are to use the emissions data on the V5... but mine has no emissions data on it, and it is a 2003 SVA's K series. Does anyone else have emissions figures on the V5? My other car does (2009 Dodge Nitro Diesel) but not the Seven.

Soda blasting cleans up throttle bodies and carburettors REALLY well. Doesn't damage the surfaces but takes all the grime and varnish off. Wash off with hot water afterwards.

It doesn't matter about the hose diameter, it's not got to cope with flow of any sort, just pressure.

which is great if you have the fortune to get one ordered a week before you start work, but when you've got the wheels off and the car's on axle stands in the drive, the angle grinder tool 'might' be in the drawer and available while waiting for ebay items to arrive is going to put a spanner in the works.

To wind the rear caliper pistons back in before refitting, use the tool supplied with an angle grinder (spanner type thing with 2 pins sticking out) Works well and if you don't have either an angle grinder or the proper wind back tool, buying an angle grinder is more useful than buying a wind back tool.

can you 'carefully' hammer the back sides flat with a hammer against an anvil or vice?

Just bought one of these from my local Range Rover dealer, at £1.10 it was cheaper than postage from anywhere online.

Seven Day Shop have 32Gb for under £12. here

Brake fluid is quite flammable, if it was burning off you'd know about it.