Grim Reaper

They're the non SVX version, not the same reflector shape as the SVX that Jonathan has pictured which also has a metal reflector surface (quite heavyweight as well). The lights I am using are The G4's from post #67 in this thread http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/how-to-modify-h4-led-to-reduce-glare-this-is-the-one-you-want.1080510/ They need a little fettling to clear casting flash from the fan surround and the 'wings' and rotational position may need a little tweaking to get the best beam pattern but they have been in use in three of my vehicles for over a year now with no failures. There are some updated versions from Philips that are getting good reports. https://www.amazon.com/AOSI-PHILIPS-LUMILEDS-Headlight-Highlander/dp/B01HA02O5G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492364543&sr=8-2&keywords=lumileds+h4

I replaced the standard 7" units with the Land Rover SVX units, they have been the best lights I've had on a car. I'm currently running them with a set of LED H4 bulbs that are pretty good as well.

You can get a version of the ​press-stud that goes on the boot cover that has a further base on the outside, I have these on the forward most popper and the half hood snaps onto this point. I did change the forward most studs to 'lift the dot' versions and oriented the part on the boot cover so the additional pressure from the half hood straps would not pull the boot cover off its base on the car. labelled as 'stud with integral eyelet' on this web page http://www.jetpress.com/Products.aspx/14054/DurableDotSnapFasteners/

The 1:1 ratio that 6th gear has is just too low for long distance driving. I changed to the 3.14 diff a few years ago and not looked back. With 210BHP I have not noticed the slower acceleration that it gives but the relaxed cruising has been a revelation. Improvements in fuel consumption have been a plus.

Red with a Black stripe down the middle? Couldn't tell if it was an SV as I only got a side/rear view.

Nice day for it. I was sitting in my van having lunch just down a side road when you drove past, with a Police van behind you.

The tensioner used to be tightened about halfway through it's quadrant to get the tension right, now its at full 'tightness' and there is still slack in the belt. Not to the extent that it could slip, but more than I would like. I wonder if a Gates 5559XS at 141 x 25 could be a solution?

I had issues getting second and third gears on my 6 speed box a couple of years ago. Sent the box off to Raceline, who took it apart and put it back together again and it's been fine since. They also changed my diff ratio to 3.14 which has been great as well.

On a similar note... my 1.8K (VVC derived) seems unable to get the belt tight, the tensioner is at full swing but the belt is still loose. I have confirmed over several different manufacturers/part numbers that they are all the same (Gates 5416XS 143x26, Conti CT929 143x25, Gates LHN100830 143x25) I've just ordered a Gates 5238XS 143x23 to see if that's any different. It used to be about mid range on the tensioner adjustment range a long time ago, but with various belt, tensioner and water pump changes it seems to always be slack even at max tensioner adjustment. Have manufacturing tolerances changed over the years? Has the tensioner pulley diameter got smaller? I've had a head skim but surely that wouldn't have dropped it that much. It's almost as if I need to drop a couple of teeth on the belt to bring it back into range of the tensioner adjustment range.

I changed from a 3.62 to 3.14 a couple of years ago, best thing I ever did, it makes long distance trips a breeze and I can't say I've noticed much loss of acceleration. 1.8 DVA K series 210bhp 6 speed box

No, I was on my motorbike. You were in a layby doing something in the cockpit.

Spotted Friday evening while on my way to the Bruce Arms, here for the weekend with Blazing Trails.

Blue one, wearing yellow Autocom headsets. I was on my bike going the other way so you won't have seen me.

Roof up, probably a wise choice as it was throwing it down as I headed back up the A1 towards Middlesbrough just after.

but it does on it's own??

Why won't mine work*irked*

Keep the max allowed adjustment low (+/- 2 or 3%) and regularly apply the auto corrections to the map. That way, if the sensor does go up the swanny, it won't affect the fuelling too much. I would recommend getting some sort of readout (like this) so you can keep an eye on what it is doing, otherwise you will have no idea it's not working until you attach a laptop.

Mr Aston leaving Croft, and two others heading for Croft I presume, Friday around 1-2pm A167 at Great Smeaton and Blackwell Grange. I was at work, but waved.

At £45 each I'm not surprised.

It was wet so I appreciate why you had the hood up. I was test riding a new BMW GSA1200 going the other way (Orange helmet) so forgive me for not waving, I was still trying to work out what all the buttons did.

Soda Blasting! Did mine when I had it apart over the winter and it works a treat. DIY with a sand blaster from Machine Mart here, sleeve the pickup tube down to about 3mm with some small tubing or heatshrink. Buy a bulk bag (25kg) of Alkacarb/ETI SODA or equivalent Sodium Bicarbonate from your local farm feed supply store (about £12 a bag) Find/Borrow/Rent a suitable air compressor and away you go. Wear eye protection and a mask (unless you want to look like a coke fiend as I did today after cleaning up the front of my bike engine, the bloke I helped inflate his flat tyre must have thought I was a druggie with white rings around my nostrils) it's not toxic but it is salty, and be prepared to turn the surrounding areas white (which you will do very quickly if you don't sleeve the pickup tube down) Sieve the bicarb into the hopper to remove any big clumps and try to get the air as dry as possible or it clogs the gun up. Wash everything down with plenty of water afterwards to remove the powder that collects and you'll be amazed at the results. I cleaned off the tops of my 10 year old Accralite pistons, and could see the machining marks when I'd finished. Same for inlet and exhaust ports.

Another reason for running it in the collector is that wideband lambda sensors don't like being run too hot, at least 40" from exhaust port IIRC. Some info here

There's no 'one way valve' in the filter that I've seen (took my old one to bits to see if there was much in it last time-nothing worth mentioning after 10 years or so) Whichever way around it is, the fuel needs to pass the plate end, the only difference is whether the fuel passes through the filter material one way or the other, so long as you don't turn it around at any point in the future I don't suppose it matters which way it's installed. The only thing is, if you sell the car at some point in the future and the guy who bought the car finds the arrow pointing the wrong way, would he be inclined to turn it around and not realise he risks any already filtered bits getting flushed out and into his injectors? I'd say install it as it is marked.

Please don't tell us you paid £15 for the filter A quick scan through the past years posts (search for Fuel Filter) would have got you one for under a fiver (delivered) here As for fitting the new one, just follow the arrow, it's all you can be expected to do.