Wrightpayne

I’m fairly certain that the very early dedions had the rod type rear shock fixing and the cages had a footplate the shocks passed through (like the live axles). The later ones with the eye style shocks had 1/2”UNF threaded bosses in the end of the cage tube and need a thin headed bolt to fix them in. I did once buy a second hand tall double D cage that fitted inside the screen and doors. It was properly stickered up for motorsport so an officially manufactured item. It did seem even taller than my Safety Devices tall cage so I didnt end up fitting it I’m 6’1” and have a lowered floor and tall cage and have lots of clearance. Anything tall for imperial cars - FIA bars / cages for DeDion and Live Axle chassis’s are quite rare now. I also have a tall FIA bar for mine.

The 4-2-1 is better from a ground clearance perspective

To disconnect the UJ at the rack end, the column sliding joint clamp (near the scuttle end of the column) needs to be slackened off. There is a very specific tightening sequence when putting back on - 7/16” head bolts first, then the grub screw and finally the locknut. Some had tightened the grub screw first or left it protruding too much and when you fully tighten the side bolts the end plate bends!

Is the ‘test and ideas’ a members only category on the forum?

Steve - I do wonder if the price is a little strong, especially for the time of year. Dealer forecourt would perhaps attain that amount. Whilst it is a numbered limited edition they dont have the same desireability as the Superlights. That said they are a cracking car and do have a cult following!

What are the ‘new’ acceptable engineering terms - primary / secondary?

Yes - send me a PM

Gridgeway - I have a lot of old flux cored solder from when my father used to repair telephone exchanges (ex GPO!) I’m happy to post you some for next time though I might need you to sign a health and safety disclaimer! 🙂 Ian

Poppers are easy to fit in the new carpet - masking tape on the back of the carpet, press onto the male poppers on the floor to mark position then a bradawl to make a hole for the female popper.

In the VW Transporter world, Rugs For Bugs and Fat Bobs Emporium are the places to go for van carpets. They will make to measure and bespoke pieces. Not used either but wouldn’t hesitate buying from them. Two trapezoid shaped carpets with edging and one heel pad shouldn't be too difficult for them! Also, they have different grades of carpet - I’d describe the OEM Caterham carpets as ‘entry’ level!

I’ve made effective repairs with superglue on pottery by dampening the edges - didnt think about doing the same with other materials.

Lots of people have converted to mechanical gauges so I bet a wanted advert would yield a cheap replacement. Ian

Hopefully it doesnt come with a silica bag installed!!

I have an FIA switch and the fused Sutars 12v socket is the only thing live when the key is out (other than the battery cable to the FIA switch!) It is set up like this so I can easily plug the charger in! Ian

12voltplanet will cut to length and have a vast array of colours incl with tracer. All looms (as you’re probably aware) use a colour schema - its just a case of finding the right era for the colours to use (or copy the existing) As an aside, Brother Needham sent me a link to a video of a guy rebuilding an Alfa Junior with a ferrari engine. For the recreation of the loom he used polypropylene rope to map out the routing in the car, taped on offshoots etc where the loom needed to split and labelled it all up. He then transferred it to a board, nailing junction points / transferring the labelling to make it! Simple really!

Different Ian Payne to me 😉

If it does then you’ve been mis-sold. The 6sp is all ally - no cast iron! The caterham 6sp has the drain plug low on one side rather than bottom / centre.

Another vote for the larger wheel. Until I sorted the bump steer out my wrists used to get jarred with a 260, which I fitted due to knee/wheel clearance, which a lowered floor fixed! Iike Stu I dont really take my hands from a set position, not that I need to apply a bit of ‘oppo’ that often!

Might do better in the ‘For Sale’ section rather than wanted 🙂

Nothing you need, however, the connector plugs for the BL switches are made by Rists just in case you need any replacement blocks / connectors.

SVC sell new shells - I’d say 2 hours tops to swap them including tea! It can be fiddly getting the wires through the brackets especially when the sleeving has gone hard. I replaced the sleeving when I swapped over to LED headlights and added side repeater LEDs into the bowls. Ian

FIA bar looks like the tall version which is also quite rare. GLWTS.

I fitted an R500 flywheel in mine and it makes a big difference. There are good aftermarket lightweight K series flywheels available new if you cannot source an Rxxx version. Ian

The 1.6/1.8 standard Caterham flywheel is Rover part number PSD102170. The production Rover cars with the 1.8 engine used a different gearbox and larger flywheel which doesnt fit the Caterham. Purely speculating, I expect the production flywheel is cast iron and the R500 flywheel is steel. As you remove material, the metal needs to be stronger to stop it disintegrating!

If you’re changing the m/c look at the AP uprated version. There are other outlets that sell them other than Caterham. I got mine from BG developments. I believe they were an option on Westfields too. It does alter the pedal characteristics - shorter travel & more leg force required. I soon got used to it for a mainly road car. Ian