Wrightpayne

I use BCP7ES in my EU2 1.6. I'm sure I read in the archives the EU3 engine should use BCPR7ES (resistive version of the above). Searching on these two plug types should bring up the previous discussions on the subject. Ian

Open to offers need it gone

Which rivets on the scuttle do you mean? Single rivets at each tail end by the door aperture or the multiple rivets between the curved top and vertical panel in the engine bay? If the latter many people (incl me) replace with ally rivnuts / allen bolts to make the scuttle easy to remove. I also replaced the two end rivets with rivnuts along with the two with poppers on the scuttle top. Ian

My imperial chassis mainly uses 5/32 / 4mm rivets.

Doesnt the duratec have a different bearing set up with hydraulic clutch actuation?

Or team parker racing

Narrow or wide track? (Looks narrow) Mine are wide track and are 185mm or 7 1/4" from centre of bush to locknut face. Ian

Another good read and great effort Andrew.

Jonathan, I 'think' the OP means the front legs of a cage which use the same boss as the forward petty strut mount on the near side and matching one on the drivers side. Ian

The chassis bosses are 7/16 UNF (seatbelt size)

Selling daughters phone due to upgrade. As per title unlocked iPhone 12 with 64gb memory. Battery on 85% health. Always had case and screen protector so in very good condition. Comes with original box. Purchased outright sim free from Argos. Will have factory reset before sending. Includes used clear case to get you going. £240 including tracked postage or a little bit less if collecting from LE9 - Broughton Astley. Any questions please do not hesitate to ask. Regards Ian

Now on gumtree at £75 ono

I've been told I have short arms and deep pockets, usually in the vicinity of an establishment selling alcoholic beverages!

From internet....

There is a plate on the front of the box held on with 3 bolts not present on the std box. I think it originated from the 2WD XR4i Ian

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Or take note of the wire colour positions in the plug, remove all the connectors and have a close look at the plug on the bench.

I've done a couple now. As ECR says, slowly and a bit at a time. Tools I used were a junior hack saw blade with the pin knocked out and gaffa taped to hold it, orientated to cut on the pull stroke. Some small tin snips (I have a set of jeweller curved snips). Half round file and various grades of wet and dry to finish the edge. Sharpie and plastic ruler. If painted be wary of using masking tape up to the very edge of the cut as you dont want to peel the paint off with the tape (I've known someone peel the chrome off a headlight they were altering!!). Reseal the ally edges with paint once you're happy its the right size. My technique was not pretty mid task but looked good once complete. Use the saw blade to rough out to the desired size - this often meant cutting little triangles of ally, as the blade doesnt cut curves very well, then blend in the cuts with the file. The filing needs to be done gently with light pressure. The ally is quite soft and can distort easily. On straight sections I used the flat of the file at an angled to get a reasonable length of file along the cut edge and file it straight. I've read about others using an emery flap wheel to enlarge the hole, which I did when increasing the height of the steering rack holes by a few MM. I think there is too much material to take out when doing the exhaust aperture. Ian

You will (should) definitely hear the pump whirring when the ignition goes on.

SVC sell shells that come with the lamp unit fixing ring and the fixing bolt / adjuster in the base. In 2021 I paid £46 + VAT for one black 5 3/4" shell.

SPC claim there is an issue with second gear on the 6 speed, in that the internal bore tolerance on the gear is too small and that they seize up when really hot. When he rebuilt mine he honed out the bore to a 'special top secret' size to prevent the problem occuring. Not sure if relevant here but worthy of mention! Ian

When I built mine I had problems with power to the fuel pump. There is a crimped connector in the loom just down from the inertia switch plug which was faulty - green/yellow wire (or was it yellow green??) You will need to undo the tape a bit to find the connector (assuming it is this) - a wriggle of the loom might cause the pump to spring into life!! Found this - its Yellow with Green tracer! The bit of black tape on said wire shows where the joint is, just outside of the main loom (its EU2 BTW)

Nick, I changed all mine to APEM brand switches 10+ years ago which have metal levers as opposed to plastic. Much better quality than the originals. They are available from Polevolt around £4 each. https://polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Apem_Toggle_Switches.html Ian

This is an interesting read.... /forum/techtalk/bdr-spring-rates

Stephen, Are the new dampers on? How are they performing? Ian