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Wrightpayne

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Everything posted by Wrightpayne

  1. Wrightpayne
    I looked at Nick's car at the club meet last week and the front suspension is the classic type with trunions and the additional wishbone attached onto the cast iron top link. The springs have lots of coils with not much gap between them - I've seen them like this on other cars of the era. The front shocks have adjusters on them. Nick said the rears were the original bilsteins.
  2. Wrightpayne
    I've used that company before for VW connectors. Always been good service
  3. Wrightpayne
    They are the same switches as many British Leyland cars of the 80s including the classic Mini, so I expect they are a Lucas Elliott part. Edited to say googling Lucas Rists seems to bring up the connectors you need. Ian
  4. Wrightpayne
    Years ago I repaired a friends heater from his very old Mercedes sprinter camper. Basically the bronze bearing had worn out and had about 1.5mm of play! Bit of googling and found a suitable bearing. A garage had looked at it and wanted several hundred pounds to fix it. They gave him a box of bits having dis-assembled it. Bearing was little more than the price of postage! Most things can be repaired!
  5. Wrightpayne
    They can get gravel jammed between the runner and the ally floor - you can sometimes flick out with a screwdriver on the inner edge. Ian
  6. Wrightpayne
    Which type is it - the slim low level metal box or the plastic one with a 7 moulded into the front? I seem to recall the plastic one has a classic mini heater core - not sure if they borrowed the motor too. (I don't have one BTW - might help with your search!)
  7. Wrightpayne
    Lots of FIA switches on sevens have been wired incorrectly - I was speaking to someone at Curborough recently who said quite a few engines carry on running when the scrutineer throws the red key! Unless you're absolutely sure its wired correctly, I'd disconnect the battery.
  8. Wrightpayne
    You need to look for posts by Revilla - Andrew has worked out how the Rover engineers built the ECU and created free accessible information to tweak it! There are some very detailed posts by Andrew about the inner workings of the ECU.
  9. Wrightpayne
    .
  10. Wrightpayne
    Another brilliant piece of electronic engineering!
  11. Wrightpayne
    I've two points worthy of mention Firstly, I've had an ignition switch fail and the car wouldn't start. When turning it the red charging warning light didn't come on ie no power to any ignition switched circuits. This should be easy to test for, with a multimeter and wiring diagram. I fitted a replacement land rover switch (from Rimmer Bros) into the existing lock barrel thus keeping the original key. Secondly, the K series 'click' is a known fault where one of the relays within the Multi Functional Relay Unit (MFRU) fails. Googling these terms should yield some solutions. Reading your description I'd start with the second suggestion. Ian
  12. Wrightpayne
    Is the oil level OK? Sometimes the gear lever itself seizes up - make sure the pivot and end are well lubricated - I use LM grease. You might have to lift the tunnel cover up to get to the level (held in with three bolts). Check the adjustment / operation of the clutch cable - they can stretch. They are the simple fixes - clutch wear or a problem inside the box are next! Ian
  13. Wrightpayne
    Wet or dry sump?
  14. Wrightpayne
    The only disadvantage I've read about is some tyre shoulder profiles make it difficult getting the wheel on and off. I did buy some race stays but never fitted them so sold them on. I wasn't sure I'd be sticking with 185/60R13s - anything bigger could be problematic.
  15. Wrightpayne
    Most people got theirs from Think Automotive. They sell two versions - one with an extra low pressure switch so you can rig up a warning light on the dash and the other version is without the switch. This is a link to the Demon Tweaks kit (with LP switch) that looks identical in every way to the kit I got from Think Automotive. Demon Tweaks MOPG kit My suggestion is to call Think as I expect they'll be cheaper. When I installed mine I put heat shrink electrical insulation sleeve on the section of feed pipe that runs from the bulkhead to the gauge (behind the dashboard). There are lots of wires in there and the tube has stainless overbraid. Ian
  16. Wrightpayne
    I dont recall reading about one leaking previously. Lots giving incorrect readings and the odd damaged housing. I changed mine for a mechanical one years ago.
  17. Wrightpayne
    There are two sizs - 13/14" or Race. Race hug the tyre more tightly.
  18. Wrightpayne
    Its been discussed before - Team Leos make replacements far cheaper than Caterham!
  19. Wrightpayne
    Now sorted…64 plate 2015 model Move Up with a few extras like heated seats, 41k miles. Few little bits and pieces to sort out but it is a 9 year old car!
  20. Wrightpayne
    PS - I have a couple of new surplus 3/8 allen keys if you want me to post one, save sacrificing one from your set. Drop me a PM.
  21. Wrightpayne
    I cut mine a bit longer. Also slipping a bit of tube over the key to extend the handle gives some extra oomph!
  22. Wrightpayne
    I put 8mm under my rack, based on concensus rather than accurate measurement and it made a massive difference. Be aware the hole for the rack in the side skin may need elongating so the gaitors dont catch. I used an emory flap wheel in the cordless drill and took out 5mm. Ian
  23. Wrightpayne
    Rhys, Its 10mm but I've always used a chopped 3/8" on mine. You can also get replacement OEM plugs with a square hole that a std ratchet will fit. Ian
  24. Wrightpayne
    This has just appeared on ebay.....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364272278913?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yuERDGHlRWS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=lIIQa3JRTlK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  25. Wrightpayne
    My 98 car is visual only, registered in April. Interesting about the Q plate vehicles - some people are put off these but the emission rules are a positive (albeit they're fairly old anyway)
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