Wrightpayne
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Everything posted by Wrightpayne
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There is lots in the archives - I've posted in several threads on the matter. Its just finding the right key words to use as the search criteria in google - not ideal I know! Quick summary - drilled t-stat, raise front of car, top rad bung removed (old copper cored rad) fill via heater hose bleed tee using funnel until coolant overflows at rad bung, bung back in, lower car, keep filling at bleed tee till full and put cap on, top up header tank to level. Fill slowly - unavoidable with a bleed tee!! Heater valve open throughout (if you have one) and squeeze the bottom rad hose vigorously a few times at various stages of the filling process to encourage coolant to settle / air locks to move.
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There is often a correlation between the chassis and engine numbers - mine has 5 numbers in common between engine and chassis. On a K series, this doesnt necessarily mean the engine is as per the original spec - with the bore being the same between 1.6 & 1.8 engines, a change of pistons, rods and crank would gain the extra 200cc. On this and other forums I've seen people post asking 'what do you think of this vehicle as I'm thinking of buying...?' With a sellers description and a few good photos, the expert knowledge on the forum usually comes up with some questions to ask / observations on the vehicle. -
I've saw new ones for sale a couple of years ago, put back in production IIRC
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The norm is to remove the connectors at the other end - either bullet connectors on older cars or econoseal on late 90's onwards cars. The assembly guide explains how to fit them - just reverse the instructions.
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So do we think a PTFE dry lube would be better or worse than a mineral oil considering the bearing itself is PTFE lined?
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I'll be there in October and can collect on their behalf :-) (Saundersfoot)
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What SM25T says - check over all the suspension joints for wear. Regarding lubricating the lower sperical joint make sure you wipe off any excess once the lube has worked into the joint. You dont want road dust / grit getting stuck in it and wearing the joint prematurely.
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I know Mickrick is on Majorca with a seven.
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Lots of the bearing material is not magnetic - if you're down to the steel backing then its seriously worn! Not saying its this just that slightly worn bearings won't appear as debris on a magnetic sump plug
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2nd dibs please (I have an older wanted advert so technically first in the queue :-) ) I'm near Lutterworth Leics.
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They can be made to fit crossflows - there was a how to article in LF years ago - I think it involved a 1" spacer plate between the box and bellhousing. Also supplied by Caterham on the dedion crossflows.
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Has it got rigid or flexi lines? Rigid have been known to cause issues. Have you tried backing off the piston with a wind back tool?
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Used to fit - longer ones are standard now!!! I fitted some uprated front hubs last year and they came with the longer studs
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The black open wheel nuts are 15.75g lighter than a full closed chrome wheel nut (caterham supplied) so 252g lighter on a set of 16
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Marginally, as they are shorter due to being open ended - a feature I was keen on so I could see they were on fully. The early ford hub cars (mine is 1998) had short studs where the threads only engaged 5 turns. The engineering acceptability of this was debated on the forum many years ago and the general consensus was it was borderline. At some point in production (early 2000s ????) a longer stud was introduced by Caterham. I retro fitted them. An FYI for new members!! 5 turns to tighten then you have the short studs. Ian
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I've no idea but been fine for 10+ years
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I have these on my seven.....mk 1 Lotus Elise wheel nuts. There are posts in the archives on the subject. https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/wheels-and-tyres/nuts-bolts/19mm-hex-open-ended-black-wheel-nuts/
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I bet there are a lot of new members unfamiliar with the spec of the Superlight 'R' - might be worthwhile elaborating....
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I use a shortened 3/8" allen key which has a bit more slop than a 10mm. I stick a bit of steel tube over it to increase the leverage. I bet Paul R and the LADs guys have their own thumb wrestling league - how many pumps for a full fill :-) Ian
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I use a 35 year old bottle that has a tube going to the bottom so as you squeeze it, it forces the oil up. I've bought some nylon tube, an elbow and brass bulkhead fitting to replicate it - I made one for Tazio (as he was always borrowing mine) and it works perfectly for the sierra diff and gearbox...
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If its a new screen it probably has remnants of rubber lube on it from assembly.
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I've pondered this as there has been a few 'wanted' posts over the years due to cracking. I think the options are limited - either fabricate a new case out of ally or swap to the later type of heater. Maybe fabricating some metal brackets to fix into the casing and attach to the normal fixing points, however, I expect all the plastic has gone brittle. There was a later type heater on ebay recently being sold by a breaker so seemed a tad expensive! Ian
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Looks like a sierra box - thats the speedometer drive which has an oil seal. On older cars there is a cable drive, yours is electronic. The seal can be changed in situ and is a standard size oil seal the details of which can be found in this thread.... Oil seal sizing Ian
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SBB5-20 seems to be the spec code. I can seek advice on Monday from our technical experts. I do think the easiest option is to seek someone with a lathe who likes beer - turning 0.75mm off a couple of bolt heads should be an easy task for them assuming they're not Ti! I'd have a go sticking the bolt in the cordless drill at full speed and attacking with a file. Ian
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Where abouts do they fit on the mirrors? If it is through the top of the mirror body into the stem I think flange head bolts would be good. If through the fixing bracket into the mounting surface, I think these are countersunk. Ian
