rj
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Everything posted by rj
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And when anything else fails, then I can make it in Denmark!
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Doesn't it have an alarm for low level being a "modern car"?
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I would imagine the tube is manufactored by Arch. Maybe they could do one where the tube is turned 180 degrees
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Thank you for clarifying. Then I suppose there's no reason to dig up the fastner pack in the garage :-p
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How much are you prepared to spend? Red Top batteries are better than the Banner, but the ultimate would be a proper Lithium battery. You just need to be aware that the marking often is the equivalent CCA capacity battery rather than the actual capacity of the Lithium battery. This has almost the same capacity as the Banner, but a lot more cranking juice. (Unfortunately in Denmark, but that's a detail to overcome)
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It would be informative if you'd tell us what the content of the secret message is :-p I was just about going to my garage to see if I could sort you (it's 8 miles away) but if you already have the information it'd be waste of time.
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Alan, I think it depends on the age of the car. Some cars (earlier) have it fittet purely from the top and bolted down to the chassis like live axle cars, whereas it later was bolted from the bottom with a turned down shallow head bolt, just above the damper.
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Use a piece of paper / cloth to lay down the dipstick on. This will give a clear reading as it's easy to see where it gets "wet"
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Well done for preserving the moulds Chris
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I think I'd go for Omega pistons for a 1.6.
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Use a piece if paper / cloth to lay the dipstick up on. It'll be very clear where it gets "wet".
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Is it me or does it look like the sensor (No 5) has snapped from the water rail? Depending on which ECU you're running, this could control the fan, and if the sensor is broken there's no fan! I have had issues if I didn't cool down the engine properly following a track session. The water flow at idle is insufficient to handle the accumulated heat and the heat from the primaries. The water rail is very (too) close. In the end I added an electric booster pump that kicks in when the water temperature is above 85 degrees. This has cured the issue.
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Andrew, Sealy sell the exact same crimer as the "pro.point" Maybe something in their catalouge? https://www.sealey.co.uk/search?q=ak3857
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I've seen pictures of them and can vouch for the condition - No wonder if you know how Ian looks after his cars though.
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It is correct
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Most assembly guides online here: http://www.caterham.dk/Assembly_Guides/index.htm
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Andrew, Dry ice is the answer to removing them :-p
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Arch asset the correct fitting points for you as they depend on the driver/seat/hans device.
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Mark It could be a 5V peak to peak from the ECU, and I doubt you need a pull-anyway resistor. I don't on my MBE 967...
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You get used to doing it. I've worn glasses for 44 years and can get them behind my ears wearing any helmet.
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I agree, You may not need the spigot bearing, but one in ten times you do - big time. Is saving £5 worth being stuck in Spain witout it?
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What Ian said. Wrong oil can cause funny issues - such as missing or sticky gears. Even correct grade (GL4) oil behave differently in the 6-speed. (Edited to add I replied to an earlier post of Ians - the one about the oil)
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It's not bad at all. You don't need to take out the gearbox, and it's - with the right tools - a 4 hour job or so. Let me know if you need an assembly guide for a K-series car. What I tried to say earlier: Remember to source a spigot bearing. It's easy to damage it.
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Spigot bearing
