rj
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Everything posted by rj
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I found with uprated fronts and "blue" rear pads the bias was way out - when I had standard brakes with Mintex 1144 pads at the front I was able to brake a lot harder at the end of the long straigth. Then I fitted CL brakes RC6 rears and had a Brown Trousers Moment following that and fitted a bias valve at the rears. Now the car stops as it should again. If the car didn't brake on the fronts there'd be a lot of those BTMs. If you undo one of the brake pipes it'll cause a mess with leaking fluid, but beleive me... you'll notice the lack of stopping power! (Guess why I know)
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Andrew, This is pretty much how you control stepper motors :-p Sometimes you do "micro stepping" as well. Probably easier to google it than listening to my rubbish :-o
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Link please Ian :-p I could be interested for a future project
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A lot can be done. Shave the loom and loose at least two kgs. Nitrons and aero wishbones is another 4-5 kgs. Which tyres do you use? The original CR500s weighed at least 1,5 kgs less than ZZRs (each) - now the lightest would probably be a set of slicks. MB wheels *are* light. Titanium wheel nuts Lithium battery Do you want me to continue?
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Weights have always been quoted dry and without driver. Here, in Denmark, we have just recently had the EU kerb weight with driver introduced. Until then it was the dry weight. As a guideline you can add 125kgs to the dry weight to get the "ready for takeoff" weight.
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I use an M12 connecting nut and a set bolt (obviously M12) to remove the ball joint from the upright. Best to grind off any markings from the bolt - or even better turn it down to be a little hollow. Remember to leave the nut on the ball joint undone just enough to cover the whole end of the thread on the ball joint (to protect the thread and to avoid funny things from happening when it lets go). Like Ian says: They come off with a bang! /r
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I'll second Ians comment on the threadsert - I use Würths "TimeSert" and sometimes do it just as a matter of precaution.
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Andrew, Just a daft question: Have you any idea if your software could "easily" be adapted to cover the VAG groups ECUs? I am currently looking into remapping of a 1.8t, and the money asked for the software to do so is horrendous. You could probably make a decent income from this if you felt like...
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Andrew, Insufficient fueling will make it pop and bang because the fuel ignites in the exhaust rather than in the combustion chamber
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Well done Andrew! Always amazed with the detail of your work.
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GS Valves or DVA Power would probably be best guesses
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Sorry Andrew, I had missed updates on this one. I've never seen a Vref for sensors that was not regulated to +5V on aany ECU I've come across so it makes sense in every way. Pretty sure it'll go in "safe mode" if the input is above say 4.8V or below 0.2V and assume the wires are, or the sensor is, broken.
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Linky https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/caterham/all-models/1994-caterham-hpc-w-250hp-jpe-engine/10473797
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As I understand it, the replacement is a pickup and an external pump
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Any "32" hydraulic oil would do the job
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Like Chris says: When you clear your cookies you'll be logged out. It happens to me too and when I had the browser set up not to clear the cookois or if I keep the window open I'm not logged out. But I am when I close the browser and it clears the cookies.
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Linky here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-GT-TDI-140-One-owner-64k-miles-only-FSH-Black-Manual-Gearbox-/324089497033
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I suppose the input of the ECU is a pull up resistor and the sensor is an NTC resistor. Could it be something that relates to the input voltage on the ECU pin generated from this?
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I thought so, and the multiple injection diesels was well described by VW when they introduced the PD engines.
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I very much doubt so in an engine where the fuel is injected before the valve. It is pretty hard to get anything in the combustion chamber mid-cycle :-p
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I am certain it has to do with emissions.
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Not sure I'll make it this year. Need to strip the engine snd rebuildvit to stop it leaking and struggle to find the time. However there will be at least three trackdays, two with the Nordic car magasines and one in the van to prove that I can do a certain lap time
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Be careful with fitting the VW rears. They have smaller diameter pistons!
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You've done it again Andrew
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I usually jack mine just under the scuttle lifting one side at a time. (I have rear exit exhaust as well)
