rj
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Everything posted by rj
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I like that. That's adding lightness
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Seemingly I need new glasses. Sorry! -
If only I could see who that was...
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Who got the clamp? (Or in other words: Did I?)
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I could find use for the steering column clamp subject to logistics
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Organic with springs. Called uprated, but AFAIK they all were ever after the R500. And I'm being told it was marginal. I have a TTV setup for a 1.9 engine (no springs) that ought to be able to survive +260hp with a sequential box, but this is with bespoke flywheel as I'm moving to 36-2 rather than 36-4 trigger pattern.
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And Putin can't hack 😉
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As per the guidelines "Please stipulate a price or at least a guide price, for the items you are selling." And the asking price is???
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Hmm. I've just added extra holes to add lightness
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But true. It says so in the build manual. The blue stuff - has it dried up? It can be silicon sealant in spite of looking like Hylomar. I have blue silicon sealant... (But never used it there!)
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I was told to do nothing - and it has never been leaking (there)
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There should be no sealant on the mating surface of a 6-speed. That was actually what I was about to tell Malcolm until l re-read his post.
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My bad, please ignore!
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It seems it has no number in the parts catalogue :-/
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My Sillylight overheated after spirited track (ab)use. I thought it was a HGF, but it turned out that the water boiled in the water rail above the primaries if the engine was not cooled down properly. In the end a small electric water pump that kicks in at +95 degrees in the water rail was the cure
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Charlie Are you on WhatsApp? I'd like to see some things, which maybe could be done on a video call. It's not so easy for me just to pop in as I'm some 650 miles away from you.
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Reading this I am getting more and more convinced it's a faulty earth somewhere. As Richard suggests it only takes very little to fry the gauges, and even less if it's reverse polarised.
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PS: Have you checked the earth strap between engine and chassis?
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Two possible reasons for frying the gauges: Either overvoltage (caused by a faulty voltage regulator inside the alternator) or a failing earth that causes some of the installation to draw current through the gauges. - I'd be happy to look at the car if it was brought to me - and I am not scared by the DTA Ecu. Only unfortunate issue is my location...
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Yes, but it's internal
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Almost sounds like a faulty alternator
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Are these still available? (No picture in the link)
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A bit late, but everything needs to be freshly cleaned and preferably with oxygen starvation to prevent the surface from oxidising. Also the flux is important.
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The simple answer without confusing anybody: 3.9 will result in lower engine revs than 4.1
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Would this work? You may need to remove the symbol https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/small-black-bezel-warning-light-indicator-green
