rj
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Everything posted by rj
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That could be a relay that has started welding the contacts. You could tap the top of the relays when it won't stop and see if anything happens. Tap IE with the handle of a screwdriver.
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The D-Sub connector will likely be for flashing the processor. Do you hear a realy klicking when the car won't start? It could be one of those that has started to fail. Unfortunately it looks like it's all glued in some sort of epoxy and therefor extremely difficult to repair.
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How are the cables from the switches routed and secured?
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I did it long time ago on a Crossflow. If you think that's bad, then come and join me when I do it on the Passat TDI DSG. Just to remove the DPF you need to lower the front subframe (requiring re-allignment of the steering geometry afterwards). I am to change flywheel and turbo on the car. I think lowering the subframe will not do; have to completely remove it, I think. (But I have an assembly guide though)
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Stephen, I guess this was the 21 where access is a little more complicated than in a Seven. I have taken engines out of quite a few cars over the time. The Seven is one of the easiest to work on. On my K-series I could change clutch in about five-six hours prior to dry-sumping it. But OK, there's been a lot of rehersals...
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Cons: Slight rattle from the gearbox at idle, and you can't be quite as clumsy with the clutch. But still not an issue at all. Otherwise none. Pros: Everything. And it's not difficult at all!
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What is more "modern"? Heavier?Easier to tune? In a car, where less is more, it's very difficult to find a more suitable engine than the K although it has it's flaws. As things happened there was no option but to replace the engine, but I still think the K-cars are the best handling ever built. In the 20 years I've been lurking around I don't think I've seen five sets of used Jenveys, and they've been priced in a way that I'd buy new just for the comfort.
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I shall check if I still have them ;-)
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Second that ;-)
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Martin, Neutral - is that carbon you're after? I might still have a GRP set in green - but not Caterham green - if everything fails. But you know where they would be...
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Mine didn't arrive today :-/
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310 will be CANbus The inteface recommended by Richard should arrive today, but I don't think I'll be able to test the next couple of days
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No Ian An S4 does not look nice regardless the colour!
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Could you also turn the wires, please? Then I can better see colours and tracers.
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Hi Stuart Tracers etc on the wires may be hidden. Hence my question. I'm unsure if it's a brown with a yellow tracer and a green with grey tracer. But yes, it makes sense - especially if the warning lamp is an LED.
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It could be a ballast resistor for the alternator warning lamp - in which case it should only get hot when the engine is not running. What colours are the wires it connects to?
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Richard I've not even with a laptop with native RS232 been able to establish stable connection (!) on anything later than XP
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I doubt you'll have steady communication with anything higher than WinXP - or at least: I've not managed to.
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What Andrew said
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Not quite D-shaped, but this is about to come in my S3 Picture not of actual item because it's in the garage and I'm at work :-p
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You'll need to prove it's in compliance with the local regs
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Well done Andrew!
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Diagrams in the 2001 assembly guide here: www.caterham.dk/Assembly_Guides No need to keep it secret
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I've used it for trackdays with success
