tomlil01

Thanks, Dave. The car seems to keep running ok with ~3.5 on each barrel. I can obviously increase the idle to increase the air flow to something nearer 5. I am just a bit confused, as then my idle will be above 1000rpm, and 1000 is what they recommend in the setup guide. Is it normal to have to use an idle above 1000rpm to achieve this air flow?

Thanks, yup, I'll remember to let the car warm up first

Thanks, Steve. This is actually the guide I was using.

thanks, JV. This is interesting. So, it sounds like I should probably increase my idle to 1100 (or perhaps even higher) to try to achieve this air flow of 10 per pair. At the moment I have 3.25, 3.25, 3.25, 3.75 at 1000rpm idle, so nothing like 10 per pair.

Thanks for the responses.I've been trying to follow this guide: http://www.bikerhouse.com/testsite/minister2011/support/roller_barrel_setup_k-seriesr.php If there is some way to balance between the two individual throttle bodies in each pair, then it doesn't mention it. I'm not really sure what I'm looking for, but I can't see anything obvious that might be this "bleed screw". The guide says to use 1mm opening for idle. Lee

Hi, I am trying to balance the roller barrels on my R300K, and I had a few questions that maybe someone with more knowledge might be able to help with. With the idle set to 1000 rpm, I am only getting about 3.5 on each barrel with my synchrometer. Is this normal it should it be higher? In order to achieve a higher air flow I assume I would need to set the idle to more than 1000rpm? In order to get the roller barrels as closely balanced as possible, they do not all seem to be open 1mm at idle. Rather the two barrels towards the back of the car are open ~1mm, and the two barrels towards the front of the car appear to be completely closed (as far as I can see). How does the balance adjustment screw work? Does this balance between all 4 barrels or just the left 2 vs the right 2?Thanks Lee

Hi, Thanks for that. Very helpful. I just checked again and mine is a 967. So, the CAN connector (box) that I bought is no good? What do I need in terms of connecting to the serial connector? Thanks Lee

Hi, Hoping someone might be able to offer some advice. I'm looking to adjust the Throttle Position Sensor on my car, as I am getting bad throttle response/kangarooing at low revs. Up until now I have taken the car to a specialist to get this sorted (along with balancing the throttle bodies), but it seems to not last long before I get problems again, so I want to learn to adjust the TPS and balance the RB) I understand from other posts that I should be able to check the TPS voltage with "easimap" software, by connecting my laptop to my ECU. I ordered an MBE CAN mapping kit, and received this today, but it wasn't until I went to connect it that I found that the garage had installed a serial cable onto the ECU instead of a OBD. The guys who sold me the CAN mapping kit said that I can get a OBD connector (which I can wire into the back of my ECU plug in place of the serial cable), then I Can use the mapping kit Should this work, or is there some reason why the garage attached a serial cable instead? Am I on the right track? The car is a 2004 R300 k-series (with RBTB). There doesn't seem to be anything helpful written on the ECU itself. Thanks Lee

I had this problem. I think it is caused by the clear lacquer wearing thin and letting water in. It seemed to get worse and worse over time. I sanded mine down lightly, then resprayed them with "Hycote Clear Lacquer" that I bought online, and they look pretty good now. Haven't been out in the rain much since but I'm hoping the water marks won't come back.

So, I think the car starting after I rocked it in gear was just a coincidence. I just tried the same a couple of times and also hitting the starter with a hammer and it won't start. It feels like the voltage not dropping at all when I turn the key is a clue, but I don't know anything about this stuff. Seems almost like the immobiliser light has gone off but the immobiliser is still on. Anyone got any other ideas? Thanks, Lee

Hi, Jonathan, I am currently waiting a few days before I can test the "starter motor hypothesis", by rocking the car when in gear. I only tried it once so may have been a coincidence that it seemed to work. I was just wondering, does the fact that I get no change at all to the voltage when turning the ignition (when it won't turn over) indicate that it is probably not the starter motor, but something else. I was assuming that if it's a problem with the starter motor I should still see a voltage drop when turning the ignition? Thanks Lee

For anyone else looking, I found what seem like some good instructions for removing and cleaning the starter motor here: http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/solenoid_service.htm

I'm not sure how many SV R300s were built. I do appreciate the extra shoulder room though! And I understand that the old SVs had the same size tillett seats as the S3, so no "rattling about" in the car that people speak of!

My chassis number starts with SDKRDS5R3300. I think the "3" you refer to is perhaps "series 3", as I have "S5" (SV). Yes, I think my next step is to confirm that rocking the car always works, and then I will try cleaning up the starter motor. I'll take a look at your blog. Thanks.

Thanks, Piers. No, my car only has a key rather than red starter button. When I'm checking the earth I will see if I can access and clean the connector under the throttle bodies. Once the car starts, mine will now sit quite happily at idle without any revs. I used to have to rev it a bit to stop it dying but since having a faulty "throttle position sensor" replaced (which was causing all kinds of issues) it will keep running on its own. Lee