rj

2014 assembly guide here: www.regins.dk/Caterham/2014_assembly_guide.pdf This has diagrams, but I am not sure it's the VVT Sigma engine...

Could I also have a copy, please? blatchat@rj.dk

Have you checked here? http://www.caterham.dk/Assembly_Guides

Another issue I've seen is if the mapping connctor gets wet, the ECU may think you've started mapping (!) The engine ran very poorly, but when I connected the mapping lead to ask it why it was unhappy, happiness came back. In other words it seems that the inputs for mapping on the MBE is high impedance, and as such sensitive to moisture.

I agree that the rear brakes are marginal. For the same reason I'm looking into fitting the discs off a VW Lupo 3L: 15mm vented discs. I will be using them front and rear as they are significantly lighter than the uprated fronts from CC that are way overspecced IMO.

I had a similar issue when I upgraded the front brakes (DD) and at the same time fitted "blue" rear pads. The "blue" pads are supposed to have higher friction than the std. pads. I lost faith in the brakes! I then changed the rear pads to CL brakes RC8 and had a brown trousers moment at the end of the long straight - and then fitted a Tilton lever type bias valve on the rears. Works a treat. I now have faith in the brakes again and can adjust depending on being alone or not and rain or not. One advantage is that it's easy to return to a known position that may not be absolutely ideal, but easy to find compared to the continiously adjustable knob type. My car is far from standard, so you may find you have a different outcome than I did.

I think it was a JPG I pointed at

Dunno, but it was identical to my Cambridge Motorsport alternator except from the latter expect a battery sense on the "dummy" wire to compensate for the voltage drop across the wire to the battery. This can, however, be connected to the B+ terminal to simplify wiring.

That was what I tried to do. Obviously not good enough :-/

Jonathan I had just liked to the image via the image button (not the upload). Maybe the problem is that it's not on the BC server? It's not a PDF as you can gather. Your image showed as it shoud, and mine didn't with Edge, nor with Firefox. Alan If everything else fail, then we can have a look at it when I come over to collect the exhaust.

It displays when I edit the post. Wonder if it's a Firefox issue.

Jonathan LMA226 and no. It's a circular connector with 3 spade terminal like this: Strangely the image does not display in my browser. Link to picture here: http://fuelinjector-connectors.sell.everychina.com/p-110020360-round-3-way-vehicle-wiring-harness-alternator-connector-for-toyota-black-color.html

Jonathan, Unfortunately the fitting instructions were somehwat limited. The issue could be caused by the warning lamp in Alans car being a LED integrated in the tacho. Exactly how the lamp is wired in is not described in the wiring diagram of an EU3 car, but for older cars it would be an ordinary bulb with a diode in series. Alan, I think I'd try to wire in a 12V/2W bulb that simply goes to IGN and see how it behaves. A bit like on page 52 - top image - of this file: https://www.denso.ua/media/815126/160747-denso_manual-starters-en-alternators_a4_web_locked.pdf Depending on the electronics inside the alternator you may need a diode in series. It should have the cathode pointing towards the alternator. It doesn't matter what ide of the bulb it's on as long as it's in series with the bulb. The diode could be a 1N4001-1N4007, that doesn't matter as the last figure simply identifies the maximum voltage. I think the non EU3 diagram in the K-series build manual from around 2001 has the diode the wrong way around, so don't be confused ;-)

Not many would be able to do the work you've done Andrew. I certainly don't know anybody who would.

Andrew, Once again you've done the impossible... Well done!

Doesn't the screen have to be e-marked and heated for UK MOT?

Don't get me wrong. I simply think you should be honoured for the time spent. I am very very impressed with what you have done and I admire you for giving it away. I hope, at least, that people who use your software for professional work show their appreciation.

Andrew You should sell the software, not give it away for free!

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/steering-rack-refurb-0

Unfortunately Caterham don't sell them and have exclusive rights, but Titan do a repair kit for the Elise rack that might fit. They are just ordinary Igus bushings, so you could source them "anywhere" was I told. I ended up making bronze bushings for mine when I refurbished it.

Usually the bushings at the ends of the rack that have worn out.

Something's wrong if it has to idle at 1400RPM unless you have silly cams in it. I have no experience with Zetec engined cars, but for the Rover installation the flywheel can be from 3.2 to 7+ kgs. You quickly learn to adjust to it, but of course if your clutch is a pure race clutch and has only "on" and "off" it can become difficult.

+1

Very clever Andrew. I'm still amazed how much effort you've put into your mapping tool.