Mick Day

2nd tip: never drain gear oil before removing filler plug...............

I don't see what the problem is. Put the car on stands so the car is level, it's really simple. Get under the car & work out how much to cut off the Allen key. Undo filler plug & check level. A piece of 13mm copper pipe makes a good extension for extra leverage. Drain via drain plug in bottom of box. To fill get long piece of tube & funnel. Warm gear oil in hot water if the ambient temp is low. Feed tube down through engine compartment into filler. Place funnel on tube & fill. Replace filler plug & don't over-tighten. 10 minutes work??

There was also a 4th option as very early Rover K's (pre 1993?) had Rover clutches that required a different input shaft spline. Circa 1995 Low Flying had an article on the K series that showed CC using a long drill to ream out the rear of the crankshaft so the longer input shaft could be used.

Also check your engine earths...................

I'm running more or less the same geometry/ARB as you with wide-track. 1994 chassis. I have 250 ft/lbs on the front & 170 ft/lbs at the rear & this gives a nice neutral set-up. Don't bother with wide-track unless you need new wishbones. If you do the maths 250/170 gives the same (ish) vertical component of spring force at all 4 corners (the front springs being canted at about 45 deg ish). From then on its playing with tyres, pressures, rake & damper adjustment. On the road it is firm but my wife & I do a lot of touring & she doesn't complain.

Could be tempted..........

My way of getting the level correct with Apollo: 1. Fill with approx 6 litres. 2. Start engine & bring to temperature. 3. During the warm-up constantly dip the level to check. Remember with the oil splashing about it's difficult to always see the level with clean oil. 4. When at temp turn off engine & immediately dip. 5. Top up level & recheck as at 4 until you're happy. Now to ensure it is not overfilled monitor the oil temperature. This is easier to do when the engine has been "well used" such as at a track day; more difficult to do in normal road use. If the temperature goes up to 120degC plus then it's overfilled (crank thrashing oil etc). Drain off a small amount (use one of those pump thingies down dipstick tube)till oil temp levels out at about 110 or 115degC. Remember this is the oil temp in extreme situations. Now do some sums based around how much oil to fill less small amount drained gives total fill for next oil change.

Quoting 7heavensoon: That's what I thought! So the air just gets compressed then?The gauge measures pressure & doesn't know (or care) whether that is compressed air or a fluid.

I can't reach my handbrake either, however mine's a proper 7 not one of those namby pamby offerings with a handbrake where my left elbow resides. 😬 😬

That's too much of a Witches Promise Ian!

So I guess you're running an 88 deg C thermostat? If you want it to run cooler then try the 82 deg C option.

Mine would do that & like a lot of owners would always err on the slightly overfull on the dipstick. Resulted in the crank thrashing the oil & heating it up quite quickly to 120. Although I had an Apollo I reckoned the additional aeration wasn't too good either. So I started experimenting with oil levels to find the sweet point where the temperature on track would sit between 100 & 105 (105 is better than 120!). OP wasn't affected. So how did I do this without draining oil? On long touring holidays I'd monitor the oil temp & oil levels & noticed the point where I'd normally top up (to again overfill) equated to a slightly reduced oil temperature. The difference was maybe a 1/4 to 1/3 litre only. Problem went away with a dry sump.

Yokohama did advise that their cross-ply slicks should be fitted with the front tyres running backwards for a RWD car. There were other options advised for FWD/AWD/motorcycle & sidecar as well. The reason is as explained previously. Some have extended this reasoning to treaded tyres but be prepared for much less grip in the wet.

I had a local trailer centre replace & modify the braking system getting rid of the rods.

Hi Kev One thing to check is the cabin temp sensor as mentioned previously. These often get clogged with fluff &/or the little fan that draws air over the sensor stops working.

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: I only know of one issue, where it wouldn't turn the car over, but suspect a duffer - .............. Wow powerful battery...!

You two into cider then?

Quoting weeman: How ever you decide to fit them, I would seriously recommend that you cover them with a paint protection film. The wrap around guards from Millwood look good when new but the quality is questionable. They lasted about 50 miles on my car, I've since fitted 3M film but the damage was already done. If you don't protect them you won't have to worry about removing them at a later date to fit them elsewhere because they will have been shredded. 'Carbon bits' are in the throws of producing this style of wing guard and I for one can't wait. Be lucky!! Martin Fit them with 4 x M5 black alloy/plastic nuts fasteners. The sort of thing that is sold to fix M/C fairings. So they can be removed PDQ when the new wings arrive. Millwoods quality??? I bought a pair about 8 years ago & they were retired in 2006 for new wings with paint protection film only. The Millwoods Protectors will be refitted once the new wings have "caught up". So, in effect, protection film is better than the Millwoods c/f guards! Now I wonder how much better Carbon Bits offering will be? Edited by - Mick Day on 10 Apr 2011 20:41:21

Hi Jo As mentioned before you were out on the wrong day........Should have been out yesterday.........!

Well if you'd been out yesterday you could have spotted me!

When I had a wet sump the OP would drop on LH bends.

Why would a knackered scavenge pump cause high oil pressure? Pressure is a product of the pump output multiplied by the resistance to flow. So either the pump output has gone up (is there an adjustment on the pump?? Pace pump??) or the flow has been restricted. What oil filter are you using??? Is it a different brand to previous? Personally I've found VDO gauges/senders to be very reliable.

Nobody thought what API grade it requires? Is viscosity the only parameter?

Take off the distributor cap & throw it away along with the rotor arm. After 11 years it might fail tomorrow. New parts only cost a few quid so it'll be good for at least a few more years.

Bonnet & Nose Cone Storage?........it's called a Se7en Alan! 😬