Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Mick Day

Member
  • Posts

    2,931
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mick Day

  1. Check the float levels as well, plus you may need to replace the float level needle valves.
  2. Is new glass easy to fit?
  3. Another way to change the ratio is to put 185/70/13 or 205/60/13 tyres on the rear wheels.
  4. *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* Steve & Steve are the best mappers in the business. No doubt Emerald are just as good but Dave will only work on his own ECU's.
  5. My rad was replaced under warranty as well........................in 1996! Drain plug boss just fell out!
  6. I've put many engine things in the dishwasher including the bellhousing. However do not use dishwasher stuff as it will etch the ali. I used auto clothes washing powder. Nobody noticed until I put the coolant header tank in, the idea being to get rid of the 10 years of accumulated gunk in the bottom. Cleaned it up OK but left a very strange smell behind.
  7. It's easier to get in to clean.................... It looks good.................. You can say: I've got wide track...................... As said by someone at Caterham when I asked does the aero widetrack have any benefit?: Ask the marketing dept! If you're a skilled track driver then maybe; if you need new wishbones then go for it; if not then save some cash.
  8. My money's on the FIA switch &/or dodgy earth.
  9. Gary popped them in when I ran narrow track. IIRC it gave the same advantage as the post 96 anti-dive geometry. Now on wide track & have the spacers in situ: not too sure whether I would notice the difference either way though.
  10. The other thing to check is the water rail gasket at the back of the head on the exhaust side. Have a look at Angus & Tessa's pics: here
  11. Could it be that the mechanic is trying to fit a Rover starter motor?
  12. I have a 1.9 DVA K with a Radtec rad & standard fan. Using a 82deg stat the temp sits at about 76deg on the SPA gauge. The ECU shows about 5deg more. ECU switches fan on at 86deg & off at 84deg. Seems to cope quite well even in 35deg ambient.
  13. I've had all 3. Steve Greenald didn't like the 74deg variant as like you we couldn't get much heat energy into the system. The 88deg variant is considered too high so most plump for 82deg in a tuned K series engine: Halfords part number HTK 605
  14. Any 5w40 API SL good quality oil will do; Halfords do a nice synthetic 5w40, again made by Comma (allegedly). You could try these people Opie Oils as they offer a club discount plus extra discounts from time to time. Don't discount using your local parts supplier as they often sell Comma oils at a lower price than Halfords own brand. Oil is a religion & as such there are so many opinions on what is best but consider this: as most people do little mileage & treat their car better than the average then a yearly oil/filter change with a good quality API SL 5w40 will more than suffice.
  15. It's allegedly made by Comma who also supply the 5w50 oil to Caterham. As has been pointed out before there is no API certification on the bottle. Do you really need 5w50 in this cold weather? Most of us use 5w40 API SL all year round.
  16. Mick Day

    Endoscopes

    ..........a testicular problem Aves???
  17. Mick Day

    Fuel Tank

    Dry to full should be 8 gallons (imperial).
  18. MT90 is heavier than MTL & is mainly used in gearbox/diff combinations (transaxels) MTL = 70w-80 GL-4 Gear Oil ****this is the one you want***. You'll need 2 quart pots. MT90 = 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil
  19. Another trick is to put a blob of yellow paint on the lower spring perches so that you know when you've wound on 1 turn. Remember that you'll need more turns to change the ride height on the front than the rear.
  20. Tyre pressure changes can be a bit of a moveable feast as sometimes it has the opposite effect. With 180 BHP maybe 185 section rear tyres would be better. But before you change this experiment with ride heights: front down, rear up & damper settings as this will be the cheapest/easiest option. Don't drop the front end too much as a smashed sump..........................
  21. To 'cure' understeer there are a number of routes you can take: 1) Soften front end...damper or a/r bar or springs. 2) Stiffen rear end...damper or a/r bar or springs. 3) Raise the rear ride height. 4) Increase front tyre pressures. 5) Decrease rear tyre pressures. 6) Increase negative camber on front wheels. 7) Decrease rear negative camber. Only change one thing at a time.
  22. That's why if you ring Redline & tell them what car it's off they will send you the right part.
  23. Have a chat with these people: Redline.
  24. When I stripped my 1994 chassis down in 2006 it was surprisingly sound under the powder coating that was flaking off. However I've owned my car from new & it doesn't really go out in the rain or get used much in the winter.
×
×
  • Create New...