Mick Day

Dom: if you do suspect the pump get the pressure checked before removing it. My problem was more to do with the poor quality aftermarket gasket. But there again the original Rover pump quality has been suspect.

Had this problem on & off for some time. 1.9 DVA K. But mine was a complete cut. No hesitation just complete shutdown. Give it 30 seconds & engine would start again. At 1st it was occasional then ok for months. But in the last 5 years it made the car undriveable. I changed all the usual suspects: coil, crank sensor, TPS, distributor cap & rotor arm, plugs etc. In the end had the fuel pressure measured which was low. So tank out to remove the pump. The gasket had melted forming a goo around the pump inlet partially blocking it. So after a new pump, gasket & filter I'm now back in the game.

20 years ago we ditched the foam & fitted a baffle in the sump. This is one example: https://www.lakesideengineering.com/art markus/Sump Blurb.htm

Try https://www.tracknroad.com/ Steve Greenald

GEMS.... DVA engine

Fan is switched by the aftermarket ECU. 86 on, 82 off. 82 thermostat. Engine sits at 77.

That's a simple repair by any engineering metalworking shop

Bump

Still available.

West Sussex

Originally purchased from Machine Mart in 2006. Little used (funny how you don't need it once you've got it!). In excellent condition throughout, buyer collects. £99

Had this happen a few times: Once it was a poor engine earth: working one minute, turn engine off, after 5 minutes nothing, not even headlights. Another time duff battery. And finally duff starter. OK when cold but when hot the battery wasn't man enough to overcome the increased electrical resistance, & maybe partial mechanical seizure when hot. Coupled with a failed/failing fuel pump relay so really a fun day out! Good luck!

Roger: it's easier with 2 people, but.............................when you're on your own use a G clamp to hold the screwdriver in place. From memory it can be clamped to the sump/crankcase flange.

As you have found out there are some variations in the use of the 4 relays within the MFRU. If you find an ECU pinout diagram & follow the wiring into the MRFU (& out again) you can check what the various relays do (use a multimeter to confirm continuiity). My car is a 1994, originally with the old 1.4 K series. 4 relays were used controlling lambda sensor heater, fuel pump, starter & injectors (IACV & charcoal cannister). The lambda sensor, IACV & charcoal cannister were removed a while back, & I installed a separate relay for the starter for obvious reasons. However when I was getting a misfire, & odd fuelling problems, I got rid of the MFRU in favour of standard relays to just control power to the fuel pump & injectors.

This header tank also works well with a K series, especially with a dry sump oil tank in front of the engine.