Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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Keith Try Brise; quite closeish to Caterham in Dartford
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Good luck with the sale Steve.
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Try looking here Then do a search & pick up all the other threads.
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Another option is Paul Harvey at Western Road Garage, Shoreham.
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TADTS You could fit one of these.
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er..... maybe you should have fitted the clutch before replacing the engine. *confused*
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Yes please. K series no heater.
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You need a 5w40 oil to API SJ & above. If you stick to the main well-known brands you can't go wrong. Some of us use the 5w50 oil previously mentioned but unless the car is regularly thrashed (on track?) then it's very much over-kill. No doubt you will change the oil very frequently, like most of us do, so maybe buy on price?
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It's much easier to torque up the front suspension fastners without the engine in place. But you need to do it with the weight of the engine on the supension. So get someone to stand in the engine bay whilst you use the torque wrench. Job done.
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Quoting Richard Price: Les, I think the standard temperature sender is 1/4NPT. Er no its 1/8 NPT!
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Good discussion on running a sealed system here. I run a non-sealed system.
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Unused & boxed (box never opened). Provided as part of an insurance settlement but not really suitable for us. Cheapest I've seen it advertised at is £137.98. Sell for £98. "1100W, 230V 32cm cutting diameter electric verticutter ideal for aerating and removing rooted thatch and moss Patented jet collect system provides a better collection, increasing convenience and saving time Fourteen slitting knives ensure deep rooted thatch and moss is cut and lifted The 2-piece, 50 litre rear collection box reduces emptying trips and splits for storage The four variable raking heights from +5 to -10mm suit all lawn conditions The Z folding handle and stackable collection box provide compact and easy storage"
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Ask anyone who has had a tyre blow out on a 4-wheel braked trailer & most would say they hardly noticed it. Ask anyone who has had the same with a 2-wheel unbraked trailer & they'd say it really messed up their day.
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what is the thread of the green air temp sensor on a rover K series ?
Mick Day replied to Jason Plato's topic in TechTalk
Mine is: M10 x 1.25 -
Big screwdriver then petrol to remove adhesive. Never damaged a wheel yet.
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You need to retain the bearings in the A arm (wishbone) with bearing fit.
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Having helped out on changing valve springs recently it's easier to remove the head completely. At least then one can examine the valves/head interface & know that everything is in good order. The thought of dropping a collet between the valve & seat, & wasting time getting it out, would give me nightmares, especially if I couldn't find it!
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Don't bother with a mechanical battery master unless you're prepared to replace it every year or so. Why? Most cause electrical problems which IMHO detract from the benefits. Doesn't do anything to my ECU when I disconnect the battery.
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TADTS! Common problem & the above post explains why. Learn to live with it & invest in some earplugs. Amazing how modern it then sounds! Oh & the 6 speed also does the same. Raising the tickover above 1000 rpm does reduce the input shaft rattle somewhat so something to try along with the earplugs.
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If it's any consolation a very nice guy set-up a Pace bulk-buy back in Oct 2005. I received mine 15 minutes before DVA was ready to bolt the sump on in March 2006. Talk about just in time!
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Quoting Dave Jackson: there must be something wrong with your bush (phnaar phnaar) or the chassis shirley ?dj Don't you mean Shirley Bassey?
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The coil on the side of the block is the one to use & if you have the correct injector wiring that corresponds with the setting on the Emerald then......... so check all plugs are firing when they should. To start the engine needs a correctly timed spark, fuel at the right point & compression. So if it still wont start it must be one of the 3.
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Assuming you are using a distributor, have you set-up for batched or sequential injection? What coil are you using?
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Coupled with the above comment I think your problem was caused by the PRRT. May I suggest that any other owners who have problems, following a new-fangled thermostat set-up, revert back to the OEM thermostat set-up 1st.
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Quoting Grubbster: He also replaced the round expansion tank with the old style flat one (had to make a bracket to enable this as my car doesn't have the mounting points for it). Hmm.... What does the shape of the expansion/header tank have to do with this?
