Andrew Hooper

If you haven't done so already, try changing the plugs for platinum tipped ones. The same thing happened to me after a re-build. Andrew

I use the one standard gauge, but leading through a switch to either the oil temp sensor on the apollo tank or to the water temp sensor. Works fine.

4x14" wheels - ally any type. Needed for worn tyres (Trackdays etc)

Sorry to bring this up again, but has anyone got a definitive answer? I am now on my third starter motor. The first was a Magnetox (Died) the second (standard K series)wouldn't disengage, now this one suffers the dreaded K click. I've got a new solenoid, well wrapped in tin-foil which is better but hasn't cured it. I carry a crowbar, but it isn't the best answer. I want to avoid another starter motor if I can. Any suggestions?

Yes, arming it does help in the short term and I do intend fitting a battery master switch as in FIA. I'm glad at is not just me!

Car: ‘06 K series Built1600 converted to1800 Problem: Starting, press key fob, flashing immobiliser light goes out, turn on ignition, press starter, engine starts, but immediately stops and immobiliser light comes on. Attempted solutions: Switch off, go through same procedure – negative. Re-arming procedure – negative. Jumping up and down with appropriate noises – negative (but feel better) Try using spare key fob – negative. Solution which works: Disconnect battery – reconnect – go through rearming procedure i.e. press key fob (blank button) repeatedly. Engine starts – hoo-bloody-ray. Weird bit: Once the car is warmed up, the problem disappears! Possible way round problem: Fit Battery master switch which will make “Solution which works” easier. Any Ideas? (realistic ones that is – renewing the entire engine management system is not!) ☹️

I had similar symptoms, and it was a loose sender for the temp gauge. Coolant had leaked over the exhaust manifold and below, so it looked for all the world as if it had come from the head itself. Check it out anyway.

What day? I was there Sat 2nd.

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: Give it a go Do you have the plastic or alloy TB? Ally - anyone got one to spare?

Mine was a 1600, but has been re-built as an 1800. It still has the original throttle body though, with the counterweight - I must say removing it does seem a cheaper option than buying the larger throttle body.

I may have missed a thread, but has anyone else read this bit in Lowflying. The reason the 'wedge' is there is to act as a counterweight in the unlikely? event of the throttle cable breaking. Without it the throttle could stay wide open. The mind boggles!

Interested in the FIA roll bar. How do we get in touch on this thing? I live near Ipswich. Old Peculiar

Definitely interested javascript:insertAtCursor(document.postpage.message, ' *thumbup*'), sorry not to have replied earlier, I was stuck down in Devon getting seriously wet. I live near Ipswich. Old Peculiar

You tell me! Anything after 1982 was supposed to be metric, but the Americans are still using imperial - your wheel nuts are still 3/4", wheel sizes are still imperial, so are tyres. Old Peculiar

The car is a '56 classic, or at least it started that way. However it has a de-dion rear axle. Old Peculiar