Andrew Hooper

If you haven't done so already, try changing the plugs for platinum tipped ones. The same thing happened to me after a re-build. Andrew

I use the one standard gauge, but leading through a switch to either the oil temp sensor on the apollo tank or to the water temp sensor. Works fine.

4x14" wheels - ally any type. Needed for worn tyres (Trackdays etc)

Sorry to bring this up again, but has anyone got a definitive answer? I am now on my third starter motor. The first was a Magnetox (Died) the second (standard K series)wouldn't disengage, now this one suffers the dreaded K click. I've got a new solenoid, well wrapped in tin-foil which is better but hasn't cured it. I carry a crowbar, but it isn't the best answer. I want to avoid another starter motor if I can. Any suggestions?

Yes, arming it does help in the short term and I do intend fitting a battery master switch as in FIA. I'm glad at is not just me!

Car: ‘06 K series Built1600 converted to1800 Problem: Starting, press key fob, flashing immobiliser light goes out, turn on ignition, press starter, engine starts, but immediately stops and immobiliser light comes on. Attempted solutions: Switch off, go through same procedure – negative. Re-arming procedure – negative. Jumping up and down with appropriate noises – negative (but feel better) Try using spare key fob – negative. Solution which works: Disconnect battery – reconnect – go through rearming procedure i.e. press key fob (blank button) repeatedly. Engine starts – hoo-bloody-ray. Weird bit: Once the car is warmed up, the problem disappears! Possible way round problem: Fit Battery master switch which will make “Solution which works” easier. Any Ideas? (realistic ones that is – renewing the entire engine management system is not!) ☹️

I had similar symptoms, and it was a loose sender for the temp gauge. Coolant had leaked over the exhaust manifold and below, so it looked for all the world as if it had come from the head itself. Check it out anyway.

What day? I was there Sat 2nd.

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: Give it a go Do you have the plastic or alloy TB? Ally - anyone got one to spare?

Mine was a 1600, but has been re-built as an 1800. It still has the original throttle body though, with the counterweight - I must say removing it does seem a cheaper option than buying the larger throttle body.

I may have missed a thread, but has anyone else read this bit in Lowflying. The reason the 'wedge' is there is to act as a counterweight in the unlikely? event of the throttle cable breaking. Without it the throttle could stay wide open. The mind boggles!

Interested in the FIA roll bar. How do we get in touch on this thing? I live near Ipswich. Old Peculiar

Definitely interested javascript:insertAtCursor(document.postpage.message, ' *thumbup*'), sorry not to have replied earlier, I was stuck down in Devon getting seriously wet. I live near Ipswich. Old Peculiar

You tell me! Anything after 1982 was supposed to be metric, but the Americans are still using imperial - your wheel nuts are still 3/4", wheel sizes are still imperial, so are tyres. Old Peculiar

The car is a '56 classic, or at least it started that way. However it has a de-dion rear axle. Old Peculiar

Is anyone upgrading? I need an FIA roll bar for trackdays, also 4point harnesses. When I bought the car, I never knew I would be so keen! Old Peculiar

I guess "M" stands for medium - too small i'm afraid. Old Peculiar

What size? - I have a large head (No comment required) Old Peculiar

I am looking for a pair of 4point harnesses/seat belts - anyone upgrading to 6point? Also a FIA roll bar/ not cage. Old Peculiar

Good luck with the new dipstick! It is almost impossible to read with clean oil as the yellow plastic is exactly the same colour as the oil. Also according to the instructions as given by CC you should check the level with the engine hot & running. Why on earth is there not a mark on the stick so you can read it cold? Beware also when adding oil after a change/new filter. Go for a drive round the block and throw the car round a few corners - the oil doesn't always fill the filter first time around. In the old days the filter was fitted vertically and you could fill it first. Not so with most modern engines. Andrew 1800 Classic (It grew up)

Many thanks - CC have fitted the panel with screws, so we are on a roll. I will also probably fit the panel with the captive nuts, making it easier for next time - also adding weight (What would Colin Chapman have said?) Are there wing mirrors which fit the holes for the full screen - I seem to have seen them in pics? Andrew 1800 classic (It grew up)

Come the warmer weather, I would like to fit a pair of brooklands type aero-screens. This doesn't look any great problem except! How do you get at the nuts holding the windscreen brackets. Someone has said this job takes about 10 mins, so there must be a simple way - any ideas

Thanks for this you guys - Mothers sounds homely - I'll try that. In reply to the guy who asks if polishing makes it go faster - well - elbow grease to the factor 21 minus the square root of SFA means of course it goes faster

Can anyone help me to find a good polish for my aluminium body - the car's that is? So far I have tried several kinds, but the best results have been with T- cut. The car was new in October 06 so I expect to have to do a fair amount of polishing to achieve a really good result - the bonnet has come up reasonably well, but the topsides, as we sailors say, still leave a lot to be desired. ☹️

I have recently taken delivery of a factory built 1600K series Classic I was interested to read the bits about the handling toe in - out - skittish at speed etc. Same here. Toe in has helped - now handling delightful However the speedometer is a work of fiction - at least 10% out arrording to GPS - ok at 30mph - daft at 100. Can it be adjusted ? Help please