Rattie

Worth checking that the breather is mounted the right way round. The opening under the black plate should point backwards, towards the propshaft output. Can't remember whether the top vent points in the same direction, I suspect so.

Quoting Silverback: was certainly interesting with 6th to 2nd hairpin braking zones... Nah, 3rd through both hairpins, otherwise you'rescrabbling for grip and gears Smashing fun that track. Here's footage from our last session (just before lunch) Bedford Fast Laps Quoting Silverback: Thanks to Paul Croll trackside as well for his advice and the R300 couple that were there as well (sorry didn't get a name) Martyn and my missus, Alex. Great to meet you. Glad you got some more driving in and nothings now bent out of shape

The latest GoPro Studio (they've removed most of the CineForm branding now) even does fisheye correction and is a good thing to use for first cut treatment of footage and basic editing. If all else fails, you can use the camera itself to format the card. It's the bin icon in the settings menu. Might you have the read only switch set on the card/adapter? Have fun

Hmm, could be gearbox. Particularly if it's in just some gears and not others. Not a given, because it could be a product of speeds and loadings that you only get in those gears, but I'd have my suspicions. Our 6 speed box is now more noisy than the diff since our swap to BMW. edit to add: Noises get transmitted along the propshaft/tunnel and can appear to be coming from the opposite end to where they originate. Edited by - Rattie on 8 Jul 2014 16:38:11

The rubber that goes round the lens is usually fairly stretchy and you can peel it back to expose the oval lens box with the light inside. That lens box is a bayonet fit onto the bulb holder. It's a bit like a novelty xmas light Replaced mine with truck type LED markers. Shouldn't ever have to mess with them again.

Oh dear. Same happened to GRR a few years ago in a car park. I got Taylors Foundry Motorsport to strip, take to Arch for reskin, paint and reassemble. Chris should be able to do the same. Arch did have to jig one of the bottom tubes back down into place as the skin had pulled it up a bit. Hope you get it sorted soon

I suspect we'll be seeing more of this with some water based paints. It looks like the patch I had lift from brake fluid. At least I knew that was a risk, petrol, not so much. The one way valves allow pressure to build up in the tank, so you do need to adjust the o-ring compression on the filler cap to keep it in, like Simon says in his no.1 suggestion. I had quite a bit of slosh out under trackday accelerations before tightening up the filler cap. It's a nyloc nut on the inside of the filler, working against a spring.

Most of the shadow is due to: A) the perfect angle of the light to make it look alarming and B) the tyre is a tiny bit stretched, the application for that size is for wheels 6.5" to 7" width and the tyre doesn't have a rim saver lip, so the rim can shadow the sidewall. If the bead was about to unseat, you wouldn't be seeing any shadow from the rim, because the sidewall would be self shadowing all the way from road to rim

@SBD, How much UJ shunt do you have? To work this out, the easiest thing to do is to jack up the rear and rotate each of the rear wheels to see how many degrees it'll turn without rotating the inboard UJ casing on that side. It may help to select 1st to provide some resistance, depending upon diff type. I'd be interested to know what kinds of angles people get. Mine is a bit slack and can even help cause kangarooing at low speeds and small throttle openings. It does concentrate the mind on smoothness, even to the extent of declutching when transitioning from power to overrun.

Quoting Golf Juliet Tango: Quoting Rattie: Is the 21 a 5.75" or 7" fitment? JWS also do various mounting options, with adjustments, for panel mounts like LandRover or 70s/80s BMW. 7", and of course, a smaller substitute would not be appropriate. Ah, in which case you have even more choice... JWS 8700 range at MC (Obviously you'd want the ones with "front position", i.e. sidelight) The TruckLites are 7" also, along with those SVC multi multi element ones. Andy, no probs once we have a dry night and I have some time. Edited by - Rattie on 28 May 2014 15:57:02

Interesting. I didn't notice the drive shafts originally having spring centering in them, which you would feel as the axle carrier needing preload to mount up on the deDion ears, but maybe at full droop you just don't notice this. not sure where a spring would dislodge to, maybe they're using tripod joints without springs. Anybody got a recent driveshaft off the car, or experience with one that has noticed preload?

Is the 21 a 5.75" or 7" fitment? JWS also do various mounting options, with adjustments, for panel mounts like LandRover or 70s/80s BMW.

I suspect people may be barking up the wrong tree there. These tripod type UJs are wide tolerance items. They clonk annoyingly, independent of the diff, which I've found to be great since the swap to BMW. If Steve or anyone else find any low slop replacement for the standard tripod UJs I'd love to hear about it.

Alan, they replace just the glass/bulb unit. Details: These are held in place by three clips bearing on the glass flange. The flange is slightly thicker on the JWS unit and you have to make sure the clips don't ride too close to the main body of the JWs light, or they foul on the rim of the headlamp bowl, preventing you from bringing the two parts back together properly. GJT and JK, I got them from MobileCentre... 8630 UK at MobileCentre As you'll see from the page, not cheap. I was sold on the benefits over the TruckLite units (not that they do 5.75" units) after watching a demo on youTube... 8630 on youTube see 11:00 for US pattern The UK pattern is the flipped version obviously, but you can really see the pattern quality. The MobileCentre guys do offer discounts for Landrover club members, so they may be open to cutting a deal. Edited by - Rattie on 28 May 2014 09:08:36

Here you go. http://i60.tinypic.com/125ja6p.jpg Edited by - Rattie on 27 May 2014 14:25:34

Just took delivery of a pair of 5.75" J.W. Speaker units with Hi/Lo/Side, and a set of their 70mm front indicators. Proved to myself they are a frop in replacement for the small Caterham headlight units. The side light is a single blade connector on a flylead, so clipped and crimped a receptacle onto the original sidelight lead, removed ground wire. Hope to fit second over the weekend and post some pics. Seems very bright and defined light pattern. Looks wicked, almost evil 😬 Martyn

Quoting sforshaw: I have this slimline version from Car Builder Solutions... I also have this one. It's bright, made by Hella and by far the best quality I could find at the time. Very easy to mount to the top bar or a diagonal (my choice since I run cameras on the top bar). Martyn

Hi Garth Yes, those are commoning points. Some will be earth, some 12v, some switched live,etc. Martyn

Car Limits - Andy Walsh Worth every penny Bedford very good as a first track day. Nice wide track, mostly huge run off. Only places where there is armco are places where a noob is unlikely to lose it. Martyn

WHS 😬

At speed, the combination of full windscreen but no doors creates a very noticable low pressure zone in the cockpit, which actually makes breathing quite difficult. OK, for short blasts, but not something I relish for more than a few miles. Aeroscreen doesn't generate this zone, so apart from the risk of stone/bee hits, it's actually more pleasant, if a bit intense at motorway speeds. On track with helmets, it's the only way to go. 😬 😬

Yeah, the MBE doesn't "talk" ODB, it just uses the connector to connect CAN. As John says, you need the MBE CAN-USB adapter. Best price is from SBD. Then you can hook up to Easimap. That does allow you to see the realtime data, but you are locked out from anything else. Martyn

Hi Mark, I had the same kind of problem, but opted to raising the centre mirror by getting SPA to sell me a long stem for the exisiting mirror. Martyn

I use Dashware to merge DL1 data with GoPro 720p60 video. Works well, but can be a pain to set up data channels. I suspect that's similar for other packages. BTW, it's Race Technology, no RaceLogic (their major competitor) 😬 Martyn

Andy, I'd bite Brett's hand off if I were you! Our R300 with the new BMW diff is far quieter than the old Ford one, and I now reckon the only residual noise, like yours comes from the gearbox once it's warm. It does however sound like yours is terrible in comparison, if its as bad as our old diff was! The guys at Midlands do a good job and like to see people sorted. Martyn