Rattie

Ah, that's better than my lashed up tooling. I'll add a set of those to his shopping list.

That old "metric chassis never matched the Sierra diff hole spacing" issue seems to have gone away with the move to the BMW diff carrier. I'll be helping a mate build his 360R in a while, so may have to insert a barrier plate somehow, to give him the full build experience that he will otherise miss out on. I assume the front top suspension bolts are still a nighmare? Martyn

Simon, do you actually still do the following kit...? https://www.meteormotorsport.com/shop/caterham/meteor-caterham-adjustable-arb/ Martyn

The obvious would be: http://caterhamparts.co.uk/search.php?orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=whisker Otherwise, you have third party, quality unknown... http://www.aerodynamix.co.uk/carbon-canard-winglets.html or http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/canard-winglet-carbon-pair.html Hope that helps

Hi John If this isn't a plenum chanmber, then you won't get much bypass. The sensor won't care which route air took to get to it, via the filter or a hairline crack between the TBs and the back plate. I'm assuming I'm not missing something really obvious here Martyn

Andrew, By my understanding it's not quite that simple. The instantaneous centre moves inward as you say, but the main effect is to lift the line from that centre to the contact patch. Where this line crosses the centre line, you find the roll centre. That lifting of the roll centre is what reduces the roll moment. Hurrah for Cambs Sevens!! Martyn

The difference in geometery would be tiny, but should lift the roll centre ever so slightly. You could do it with a washer or two if you wanted to try it.

We went through this a while back. Tried mirrors mounted on the stanchions. visibility better, but not being able to open the doors fully sucked. Once you swap to convex mirrors, putting them on the doors is less of a problem as the vibration cause less blurring than flat glass mirrors. We bought a pair of the large SPA carbon mirrors and fitted them to the doors. Work well for us, especially with the wide Longacre rear view mirror Martyn

If you use the two Steves down at Track'n'Road in Rainham, Steve Greenald might be able to help you out. Not sure if he'll have a Sigma map, but he did our Duratec. Do you have the MBE USB interface? Martyn

Got one direct from SPA UK. Only trouble is the cross bracing of the rollbar now gets in the way of rear view. Swings vs roundabouts? They may do one part way between the two though. Long stem in video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWpEDRtzpHw

Exact same crap weld snappage as mine. Fixed it myself with the MIG. I also got a proper clevis from Rally Design. If the length is right for where I want the biting point, I'll replace the one sided original with that, making the pedal fork redundant. I'll post if/when I get around to it. Garth, good luck with fix/Spain Martyn

Thanks, that makes more sense. CC parts have got the centre plate in stock, but not the cover. Burton however do have the -1 cover. Currently joining the dots to get the car back on the road/track. Cheers

Caterham parts list the AP CP5905-500 (single red paint dab) as a "Rover Clutch Cover" and the CP 5905-1 (three yellow dabs) as a "CSR Clutch Cover". Pendennis and others have also stated the -500 as being Duratec R300 - R500 compatible. I know ours in a 2010 R300 is a CP5905-1. I can't find any useful specs for the two parts on the AP site. I wondered if anyone knew what was actually different? Max/Min wear thickness? Clamping force? Martyn

Sorry John, I wasn't clear, it's not a time thing but a displacement thing. The hydraulics are working just fine. I've had my wife hold the pedal down for a minute and there was no creeping of the slave/bearing to the rear (I could see down the bleed/hose slot with a torch). No the centre plate must have come apart. I see it happens a fair bit. I'm currently trying to find out what exactly the difference is between the two AP cover plates that Caterham have used on different engines recently. Mine's a CP5905-1, but I see the Rover one was a CP5905-500 and yet people have been fitting that to Duratec cars, presumably without problems. Another thread I think

Had more time to bleed and test the clutch over the weekend. It actually appears to have fragmented. It'll disengage for a short distance, then latch up, which I'm guessing is fragments of clutch getting wedged between the plates, randomly. So, time for a full replacement in all probability. Damn

I'll just leave this here... http://www.burtonpower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=flywheel HTH

Hi John, Yeah I saw your problem posts while searching for hints on mine. Scored flywheel is a bugger. I've ordered a 5/16 Wilwood clevis from Rally Design, which may solve the issue once and for all, if it fits round the pedal lever. I'll update as and when. Martyn

I realised at 4pm on saturday that the Banner was knackered. Even the Ctek wouldn't revive it. Trackday was looming on monday morning. Slim chance of getting a Banner at short notice without much messing about. Decided to pop to Halfords, A1 and Wlico to see what was available. Everything at Halfords was huge compared. No chance of fitting. Everything that is except a Yuasa ride-on lawnmower battery. They have both terminal orientations, boltable tabs at that. No terminal covers though, but 30Ah and more CCA than the Banner. Works perfectly. Better than the original has been for years. £35 Did sterling service at Bedford until the cluth pedal broke. ETA: I wrapped the terminals with insulation tape, but will be 3D printing a solution in ABS very soon.

This the broken weld on the clevis at the top of the pedal. As you can see the clevis pin can slop around, causing the short release bearing travel problem.

I think I have this one on the ropes, but I thought I would share and get see if anyone had had the same issue before and if there are any better solutions. Almost at the end of our trackday at Bedford on monday, I was heading up the pit lane to start one last session, when the clutch suddenly stopped disengaging. Got it out of first, but then couldn't get it back in. Could feel the syncro drag as I operated the lever. Got towed back to trailer, called it a day. Upon inspection through the slot where the hose and bleed nipple stick out of the belhousing, everything looks OK, no fluid splashes or damage. No drop in fluid level in the M/C either. When the pedal is operated, the release bearing extends and operated the release springs, but not as far as I would expect. So, after some thought I open the pedal box and find the pedal clevis (thin, welded on additional support) has snapped off at the weld. This allows extra movement of the clevis pin and hence the lack of disengagement travel. Bit crap that. The weld has a nice fillet profile, but very little penetration into the thicker pedal steel. So I've tacked itback myself and ordered a replacement. What bothers me really though is the single sided clevis on the Wilwood M/C shaft, hance requiring the tacked on plate on the pedal itself. Would it not be a better plan to use a proper clevis "nut" on the shaft? Has anyone changed over to this arrangement? Martyn

No major issues to report. They are very good units, now at a much lower price than I paid. The wiring is straightforward, you end up having to clip the wire going form the H4 socket to the original sidelight holder, then putting a spade receptacle on instead. That then connects to the sidelight flylead on the JWS unit. I haven't had any heat problems, they put out far less heat than a halogen anyway and seem to handle it. You reuse the clips to hold the unit into the surround, but take your time, they are fiddly and need to be sited in exactly the right places to secure the fatter unit properly. I also had to cut a little off the tab opposite the surround screw, so that it doesn't foul on the JWS unit body, which as I say is thicker than the old reflector. It's worth wrapping the H4 socket etc in a bit of foam tape to stop it whacking around inside the bowl. The rattling noise can be loud and probably will damage stuff over time if allowed to happen. Obviously the connectors were originally fixed onto the bulbs, now they are in the middle of flying leads effectively. MOT was not a problem, the units are E-marked behind the lens, plus the beam pattern is textbook for a change. Enjoy the massive improvement in lighting Martyn

Sorry for the necropost, but here is more info about the J.W.Speaker lights. I got the seven MOTed on monday for the first time since swapping to the 8630. Passed no problem, as indeed it should, the beam pattern is super crisp! The lights are now vastly cheaper at MobileCentre and there is a new improved Evo version, which has more elements to it. At some point I may even get around to taking pictures of the beam patterns. No breath holding please.

I do, but I wouldn't recommend either ABS or PLA for this use. ABS is degraded by UV, which caused the most expensive recall (seat belt latches) in US history. PLA softens at 55degC, which black PLA can eaily reach in direct summer sun. Sounds like Bent Metal is your man!

I'd recommend adding a wind cover to the mic, like a Rode Dead Cat. Then you can use the mic in pistions within the car that are likely to get a bit of wind swirl.

Jerky clunkiness is usually play in the tripod style UJs on the half shafts. With the car jacked up you can generally feel the play is mainly in that area. It certainly can make the low speed behaviour annoying if excessive.