Rattie
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Everything posted by Rattie
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I saw these at Stoneleigh - or something very similar - and thought "ooh that looks nice to build up on". After a bit of research I found a few manufacturers and sellers. Now we always like having the right tools for the job, with cost not figuring too highly in our decisions. This the kind of thing. Does anyone have any experience of this kind of lift? We will have three cars in total and it would be very nice to be able to lift any of them for working on once we've got the R300 together. Opinions? Martyn R300GRR specced and ordered for a winter build
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The new TomTom Home allows you to design a route on their Google style map routing page, then upload it. Seems to work fine and of course it uses the same routing data as the hardware, so there are no "arguments" between google maps and the hardware about which way you should be going. The user interfaces seem to very much a personal thing. I've never really got on with the Garmin UI and find the TT one very intuitive, but I see plenty of people who are completely the opposite. Horses for courses. R300GRR specced and ordered for a winter build
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Edited by - Rattie on 11 Jun 2009 23:37:21
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Cheers guys. I'll leave it at 3.62 then. Ours is going to be an SV so no point making any more sluggish than it needs to be. Martyn
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In discussion with Dom at CC I have the option of going from the stock 3.62 to the taller 3.38 final drive, but he was very concerned that it would comprimise the on track oomph of the R300. Now reading Alex Wong's old post about his move to 3.38, he said he was very happy that it hadn't dulled the performance much at all. The difference is not a great deal, it would move 70mph from 3887rpm to 3629rpm on the 15" and CR500s. I'm inclined to think that it's hardly worth going for the longer drive at this point. Any thoughts? Martyn
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So those that have used both, how would you describe the differences between the Titan and the Quaife ATB? I understand the mechanicals behind both, but not having driven either I now have to select which one to get in the R300. Input welcome. Martyn
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For cutting CF I've used diamond grit abrasive holesaws. I think I got them from B&Q, who sold them as "tile cutting holesaws". Anything with a "cutting" saw blade will usually tear up the weave, so abrasives with water are the best way to go. This is the kind of cutter Also when you're done, you can tidy up the ends of the weave by running some cyanoacrylate into the ends of the cut weave. That helps stop it fraying and/or delaminating. Martyn
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Like what Rupert said. If your graphics card has a white DVI socket and a blue VGA socket then you should be fine to run two monitors either as duplicate desktops or a single desktop spread over the two. If you have a single white socket on the graphics card then you're out of luck with your current graphics card, unless you just want to mirror the display on two screens, in which case a splitter will be ok. Martyn
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IIRC, you'll probably want to remove the balance shaft assembly and block the oil feeds to it. Cosworth do a "Balance Shaft Delete Kit" for this purpose. I know the MZR 2.3L in the Mazda 6 comes with balancers, so I expect the Ford applications do as well. One to check. edit: Can you get the duratec Ranger in the UK? The current UK brochure only lists the diesels. I guess there may be used ones though. Martyn Edited by - Rattie on 13 May 2009 12:25:49
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heh, glad to be of service The VStorm was really quite a surprise - being such a close design to the Atom - but I bet it sounds fantastic with that Subaru boxer engine in it. The three wheeler from Rayvolution was another interesting piece of work, being a GSR-R with half a car instead of the front forks, literally! Martyn
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The owner was saying that he'd got Cosworth to do it, since they were building the engine anyway, he just commissioned them to build one in the higher state of tune. He built the car as a kit and made a very nice job. The engine bay layout was just lovely. Martyn
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That does look rather spiffy Nigel, that lime is a good "in your face" green.
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We're after an orange R300, so I shopped the red R300 with white stripes into orange with black stripes. Check it out! Martyn
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Ahhh, that makes more sense. Cheers, Martyn
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OK, I give up. I can't find a pic to answer my question, so maybe some one can enlighten me. I noticed at Stoneleigh that the Caterham duratecs don't use the coil pack mounting flange on top of the water adapter, leaving that free to look daft and corrode. I guess it could be a useful site to mount stuff, or could be removed or covered up. That however leaves the question of where the coil pack is hidden, and how the wiring is laid out. From pictures I have taken / seen I can only see a small loom bundle going under the plug cover, so logic leads me to the assumption that the coil pack is under the rectanglar bulge in the cover. Is that right? How is it mounted? Is it a stock FoMoCo item or a slimline special? Has anyone got a picture? Cheers, Martyn
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Oh, I doubt any of them do. It was the red line, with zero offset that I was meaning. You can see that the lower half of the sinusoid-oid is noticeably fatter than the top, so the rates of swept volume of pistons going up won't cancel those going down. Hence the "wobble".
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here you go. The displacement graph tells the whole story. Edited by - Rattie on 20 Apr 2009 14:31:06 Edited by - Rattie on 20 Apr 2009 14:31:53
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If your con rods we infinitely long, yup. The piston heights aren't true sinusoids though, due to the angle of the con rods in motion. HTH, Martyn
