David Lynch

You and me both.... Now should be a good time to get in touch with the race support teams (DPR etc.). A few appeared when R300's first went over to Sequential boxes. perhaps as now nearing end of season spare boxes can be released from the shelves (or as more cars prepare to get converted). If you find two let me know http://www.lotus7.club/sites/all/libraries/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/wink_smile.png Few been through here in last year and having been to Road and Race for a Refresh (critical to any purchase in my opinion). Similarly low hour or zero hour ex race units been through Ebay (rather they were offered here at reasonable price so that they don't lose a load in fees). The bargain Buy it now ones I've missed...

Liking the auto 460 pixel width resizing, though getting this text below the image was a little hit and miss http://www.lotus7.club/sites/all/libraries/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/thumbs_up.png

Ah, good old HTML type tool. Just going to be a case of familiarisation. http://www.lotus7.club/sites/all/libraries/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/thumbs_up.png

Getting there. Need to work out how to get some images uploaded next http://www.lotus7.club/sites/all/libraries/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/regular_smile.png

Agree, efforts by many much appreciated. http://www.lotus7.club/sites/all/libraries/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/thumbs_up.png

Malcolm, think it's all to do with this. ECE R90 When was your car originally built, if Pre 1999 believe it's no (legal) problem. I could see an issue with some race specific pads not working cold, or cheap imports with unknown friction material being well below 85% of OEM performance. A particularly callous insurance assessor could in theory say brakes were not to standard just as if you put W rather than OEM spec V rated tyres on or (going the other way) ran winter tyres (But good case if ran H). I'm very happy if 1144's are >115% 😬 and TMD/Mintex test theirs way beyond what ECE R90 asks Reminds me I need to get in touch with them regards an experiment at their test track near Sherburn in Elmet Out of interest what is the full coding on the Pad backing ?

Half that and be prepared to spend a lot of time and money sourcing, making or commissioning some of the rare bits !!! Money no object I'd love one as part of an S1 to SV set 😬

I have the Wipac units up front like AndyD used in conjunction with the small side repeaters in the Headlight Bowls. Take care that suplier does not supply Rear units. Mine did and Wipac were good enough to send me the CE type approval documents to show me the difference was nominal (Fronts are slightly brighter but a rear unit is still well above the EU requirement for a front). Saved me a return hassle. What is poor about them is lack of any side projection. The Type approval test bears that out as they are only required to be tested to +/- 20° up/down and side to side IIRC and light fall off is significant. Certainly wouldn't use then without side repeaters.

Nick, I have replaced mine but aim to refurbish original as a spare. Could be worth taking a few to Preston Power Steering (Inskip?) to make the journey worthwhile?

My thoughts too OliW Keep an almost standard design with a little nod to our little cars. C7SKSi-MK2 (which has the steering wheel back ) with a Grille style "7" rather than dial marker. Else something that suits a big 7 in a white roundel. I pointed friend towards Christoper Ward and the Malvern he bought feels and looks great for little money (even happier as his initials are CW). C700 Grand Rapide for me when have some folding spare I'd actually wish Caterham (Cars) would consider licencing the name to Christopher Ward for us mortals that can neither afford or like the B.R.M. especially now no longer directly associated with the F1 team. Yuk ! Now how best to approach them regards the above and commissioning configurable die cast models ? 😬

Angus's Site Moved on a bit since then with the BMW etc. but I'd expect if yours is a Slippy it'd be a ZF.

I did the POR-15 thing...Like any job preparation is the key. POR-15 it is not a paint in the traditional sense and sort of defeats the object of it's adhesion properties if put over existing paint. Did mine after a little kerb indiscretion Agree get everything out you can. A-Frame, and Dedion out (Replaced ) along with ARB (repainted, new drop links) and Radius Arms (replaced), Suspended brakes temporarily from damper upper bolts, Drive shafts out and diff holes taped over, boot floor out and fuel tank lifted by straps from Cage/FIA bar rather than removing. Cleaned as much as I could back to bare metal, masked bulkhead and the blue bits, Metal ready primer, POR-15 then Chassis Coat black. Rebuilt using all new bolts. Preparation took a verylong time (and in a single garage). Only thing I should have done was send diff to get overhauled while had good access. Still looks great nearly 2 years on.

Sorry didn't make myself clear. They had some wheels awaiting collection. They've not had any of mine yet. I've also seen results from the Barnsley Mob and very, very good but hard to justify on a set of wheels you could buy in fine fettle for similar money.

Badbob KM powder coatings in Featherstone. Tested them out recently with Wingstays and Light brackets and did a very nice job. Had some finished alloys waiting for collection and looked good. £30 a corner all way up to 19" rims (and believe that will include removing and replacing tyres). Best days to deliver are Monday or Wednesday as they tend to fire t'oven 😬Tuesday and Thursday. Open Saturday morning for collections too

Go on then Oli, YHM. I want to try one so this is a reasonable way to start Cheers David

Update.. will be in touch Myles to see if you still have any as have a trip to Milnathort to organise in a Month or so...but in meantime if anyone has a pairof tatty but round 13x6 et23 within striking distance of the middle of Yorkshire ? Or a really shiny nice set of 4 with black centres ? Edited by - David Lynch on 13 Jun 2014 11:47:59

Any idea which one it is Oli ?

Quite common for 5 and S to get mixed up. DVLA are great at it 😬

Never underestimate the importance of type and volume of fluid. Interesting that Simon

Are we talking fluid temperature or metal body ? The body and any remote reservoir will act as a heat sink so I'd agree with Grant's guess (for the casing). Inside fluid needs consistency from sub zero to well beyond 100°C (as locally sure it will exceed this momentarily) i.e. need a thin, low viscosity fluid with decent lubricity and excellent shear resistance. Must exhibit broadly similar flow properties at both extremes of opeerating temperatures Seen many race or offroad units looking burnt or gummed up Simon ?

Interesting Reading Stu With Mechanical gauge I've noticed drop off is very level dependent. With the (now removed) sponge fitted I had less drop off but suppose oil will flow faster around it rather than through it with the return flow compromised. I might be the only person in the world considering putting it back in 😬

Crikey, someone is optimistic at that price. Cursory search says £720 a pair. About £600 more than non LED one's I've just fitted 😳 Doesn't make sense given excellent Cree T6 900 lumen bike lights are thrown out of China for £25. Appreciate hoops of type approval to jump through but it's a switching light source, few reflectors, heat dissapation and a piddling sidelight. How hard can it be ? I got Wipac's TÜV test cert for the LED Indicators I fitted and that's a joke as to true effectiveness.

Yep, this is ahttp://www.localcarsearch.co.uk/motoworldparts/images/thumbnails/DSCF1893_tb300.jpg

NSC100932 is the Rover part number for the item Caterham list with captive lead. Looking at crossmatching via Rimmer's or Autopartoo it appears a simpler sensor and a link cable (would expect this is loom dependent) is suggested i.e. NSC000310 plus YSB0002390 (subloom flyout cable). Both 'new' on ebay for a lot less than £80 From my search I could not tell if NSC100930 and NSC100931 have the captive lead or not, information was contradictory. Have you identified yours ?

I'lll check tonight as few years since did mine. Actually the Racetech branded unit (identical 8 pin) but works great off a front hub optical proxy which is what you appear to want to do. It replaced the VDO mechancial one that failed after a bit of Curborough Grass Tracking did for the gearbox angle drive 😬