Albert Donaldson

I have just done this. I fitted a JC50 filter instead of the scouse airbox. Its not a straight swap. New backplate required and indeed the fuel rail does not quite realign with the securing bolts. It took two attempts to get the holes for trumpets in an acceptable position to make it fit. I bought a blank filter plate, but screwed it up and had to make my own out of 2mm ali, not too difficult but time consuming. for the fuel rail I have secured it temporarily with tie wraps through the bolt holes until I think of something better. Can't tell you about any possible gains as I still need to put it on RR. This is with 90mm trumpets, note it is only possible to fit upside down so the tabs that hold on filter are a little awkward to say the least. Also had to move the cooling submarine right out to the chassis rail and tie the thermostat hose down to avoid contact. Clutch cable still contacts in front of pedal box...

Interesting, I have repeated suffered with this on both a 180bhp K and a 220bhp K. temperatures absolutely fine on start up and when racing, come into pits and temp just keeps on rising. At first I couldn't understand why the fan would not come on but discovered that the emerald does not actually control fan its done by sender in radiator. Eventually I just put a switch in to turn on fan manually, however does not seem to cure. I'm going to try the submarine to relocate and see what happens.

It displays 008786.

Interested, but would like to know the answer to below- Has anyone fitted this type of imperial cage to a metric chassis? Albert

Thank-you very much gentlemen, it is a 2007 metric chassis K-series. I believe speedo is compatible. I am going to try picking up on the propshaft with an led inductive speed sensor from merlin and try to utilise the original piece of harness, if this fails it will be the front wheel, as the toothed driveshaft is not fitted. Albert

Wondered if anybody had changed from gearbox speedo sensor to a wheel/propshaft speed sensor on a k-series and if so what was involved. thanks.

Try this link: http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=293765&page=2#pid5026592 Explains a bit about sleeving the oilway with aluminum tube as the original may be a source of oil/water contamination.

I've got a k-series standard caterham exhaust manifold available if you want.

I will have available in february a 1.6 K with ported head, oversize valves, 1320cams, piper followers caps and single springs, forged pistons. It has no sump and no cam cover. It made 171bhp at 8000rpm when conservatively mapped (lambda 1 throughout). It has been raced for 50hrs in my possesion with dry sump and jenveys. Oil and filter change every 10hrs. I also have available original ss exhaust with new cat and the original plenum with rover mems ecu. You can view the engine in action here, its now out of the car as another new build is on-going https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbNDorM2MsM. Would consider delivery to the english side of tunnel... Rgds Albert

Thanks Oily, all done now and in good shape....

Good afternoon, I'm presently in the final stages of putting together a new k-series engine and am looking for a little bit of guidance when putting the head and bottom end together for the first time. As I see it I have two options: 1)(preferred) set the cam timing on the head on the bench, assemble to bottom end with pistons at mid stroke, bring piston 1 up to TDC gently, check for valve piston contact if all ok fit timing belt and check cam timing again 2)Set the cams at safe position with old non vernier timing pulleys set pistons at 90 deg BTDC fit timing belt, bring no.1 up to TDC then swap the timing pulleys for the verniers and set cam timing. I'm fitting 1444 cams with omega pistons and have the feeling that there may be no safe position as in option 2. The other question I have is with regard to the engine management. I'm running an emerald with wasted spark and batched injection-presumably this means it is not possible to get the timing 360 deg out as fuel and spark are available whether on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke ie ultimately the opening and closing of the valves are determining whether a power stroke occurs or not? I had a bad experience in my youth with a ford transit where I managed to do exactly this and hole a piston- I don't want to repeat. Sanity check appreciated.

The duratec tank fits in front of a k series in metric chassis, its what I went for after scoring one on ebay for <200ukp.

Mine 2007 academy car had the same.

When it was still mounted my passenger seat sat on two strips of 4mm(h) x 35mm(w) aluminium that appeared to be bonded to the lowered floor, the bolts passed through the strip and the floor no deformation even after squeezing a 100kg passenger in and taking him round the track. Not directly to the floor though.

Screwdriver and hammer, old filter is junk anyway........