DJ.

You can use the rubber base as a guide for the hole sizes and a hand drill to give complete control. I just used a rat tail file to enlarge the wiring hole, it's surprisingly easy but does create dust. Duncan

In these Health and Safety days, if he's said go, you can be sure he's 100% sure it's safe :) Duncan

I'm not sure about the swept area, but I would always fit new pads when replacing the discs. The old discs will have been worn irregularly, and the pads take on this shape. Using old pads on a new disc will mean you have the flat new disc surface contacting the no longer flat used pad, at best you'll have reduced braking efficiency until the pads wear to fit. At worst the new disc will be grooved by the pads. Duncan

I know what you're going through. My brand new Caterham diff makes that whine really badly between 50 and 60 mph. I'm sure it's whining at other speeds, but it seems to hit a resonant frequency and is loud through earplugs ☹️ It takes away the pleasure of driving when you stuck behind a queue of traffic at just the wrong speed! Mine is an open diff, so I'd agree with the other posters. Duncan

The only thick underseal I could find at Halfords was Hammerite like this It wasn't as rubbery as I would have liked, but went on quite thickly with a brush. It takes ages to dry though. Duncan

Don't panic. First I would try one of those extractor screw things. If you've just tightened it up, it won't be corroded solid, so there's a fair chance you can get it out without damaging the thread. Second, you can try drilling under size until you can pick out the bleed nipple thread, hopefully without damaging the calliper thread. Third, you always resort to a helicoil thread insert. When things are going badly, it's always a good idea to step back and have a think over night. If you don't feel you have the knowledge to rectify it, seek some assistance from a friend or someone who specializes in these things. Good luck Duncan

I'm no expert on gauges, but it does worry me that it is so slow to show a lower reading. There's no way you'd spot oil starvation if you don't have a warning light as well. Duncan

The build manual says to centre the De Dion tube by measuring the end faces to the outer chassis tubes, so you are doing the right thing Duncan richy beat me to it! Edited by - DJ. on 3 Jul 2011 14:36:07

Sorry to hear that. What a nightmare ☹️ Good luck, I hope you manage to find a more helpful test centre. I believe there is one in Southampton which might be convenient. Duncan

Thanks, I'm glad I didn't waste my money. Duncan

Has anyone tried a disc holder like this one here? I've been looking for one, and I like the way the front just unscrews. Duncan

CSR reg. We spotted you coming up the hill away from Eastbourne towards the traffic lights I didn't wave as we were in our Citroen C1. I had the Seven ob the Sussex blat all morning. Duncan

That really isn't good enough ☹️ Duncan

I've always used a really big stilson style pipe wrench if there's access. The harder you pull the tighter it grips. No doubt there's a more modern way of doing it. Good luck Duncan

Yes I'd say that you can be fairly certain it is OK. Logically if the switch had failed in the on position, it would come on before the engine starts, but wouldn't go out. If the bulb had gone or the switch wasn't ever making a connection, it wouldn't come on at all. The switch I bought is set at 35psi, so when the engine is hot it comes on at idle as the pressure drops to about 2 bar then. I'm not sure whether to leave it as it is (which is a little annoying) and have the advantage of early warning that the pressure has dropped, or to adjust it down to about 25psi. Having said that access to adjust it is a pain, so I'll probably leave it

I wouldn't think there would be any timing problems inside the engine, it is most likely that the throttle bodies aren't balanced. I've heard about problems getting the 150 to run nicely and I have read that some people have left it to the post build check. I'm afraid I just have the 125, so hopefully an expert will be along soon. Duncan

Jason is right, you won't see the central bolt, because the plate is in the way. I haven't tried it, but I think it should be possible to replace the mount if you have space to move the engine and gearbox far enough forward to get access to the hidden bolt. Weird things happen after an accident like that. I had a heavy shunt in a Lotus Elan, and had a lot of backlash in the diff after it was repaired. In the end I think what happened was the weight of the propshaft flying forward when the car stopped was enough to crush the adjustment washer on the pinion shaft in the diff! I hope you get it sorted without having to take the engine out. Duncan

Right, I've been busy doing research into this, and fitted a low pressure light which works. I thought I'd post the details in this thread to help others in the future, as the FAQ post only covers K series. The oil pressure sender thread on Ford engines is 1/4 NPT tapered thread. I bought a switch here with an 1/8NPT thread. A T piece here with the 1/4 NPT main thread and 1/8 NPT take off thread. And a small LED here. I went for the red non-flashing one. I chose the LED as it was the smallest diameter I could find and saves cutting a huge hole in the dash. The only problem I didn't resolve is that the take off hole in the T piece has to point downwards when the adaptor is screwed into the block or there is no way to fit the oil switch. In the end, I just took a chance on it and it happened to fit the right way round. An alternative would be a flexible hose like this Access is a nightmare with the oil filter in place, so it's best to do this when changing your oil Once the filter is out of the way, the T piece and switch and original sender can be fitted. the cable should just reconnect onto the gauge sender. Connections for the oil pressure switch are straight forward if you don't have an oil temp gauge. Tucked away behind the dash is a green live feed and a black/yellow cable that runs into the engine bay quite close to the dipstick on Sigma cars. Where it emerges from the loom there is an earth cable as well. All that's needed is to attach the LED between the green and black/yellow dash cables (watch the polarity), and to connect the switch to the black and black/yellow cables and the job is finished. I hope someone finds this useful. Duncan

I hope it works out well for you. I know the LSD diffs are stripped and rebuilt for Caterham, so like you say hopefully and open diff should be better. Duncan

I'm really sorry to hear that 2slo, it is such a shame when the rest of the car is so good ☹️ I hope it quietens down for you or Caterham get it sorted soon. I've just done 1000 miles with the Ford (type) diff, and have a noticeable whine particularly between 50 and 60 mph. I was thinking of going the BMW route, and took it for the first service. The engineer said the whine was within normal limits. I'm sure they say this to everyone, so I explained I had the option to buy the BMW diff at a special price, what should I do? He said some of the BMW diffs are turning out noisy and I'd be better sticking with mine one as it isn't too bad. Fortunately, I haven't got any backlash problems, so I've decided to stick with the Ford style one for the summer, but have bought an old Sierra secondhand diff to get rebuilt and plan to try fitting it during the winter. Duncan

I'll be interested what you think. I was at Caterham last Saturday for the 1000 mile check, and wanted advice on whether to go for the BMW offer. The mechanic said mine wasn't that bad, and some of the BMW ones can be noisy, so it was best to stick with the Ford one in my case. Duncan

I've been wondering that, and also if they might do upgrades from the 125 in the future. I think it is like the 150 but with the single throttle body. Duncan

Well done for passing Good info for builders there. Download the IVA guide from the caterham website At least you can now. They only put it up after I sent 20 copies out to fellow blatchat readers earlier this year! do the headlamp grommet realy early on, you need to fit the headlamp when you put the upper wishbone bolts in, or (like me) you can do it later and take off the radiator and front ARB and a simple job takes hours longer than it should. Shame you had to do that. On my Sigma car I got away with removing the brackets for the anti roll bar and just bending it up slightly. but I was charged ~£300 for extra work to get it through the IVA They did me for £180 and mine was said to be the best one they'd had in since the chap started working at Caterham! Duncan

Yellow with dark (black?) stripe going north on the Uckfield bypass Saturday 11th June. I was in the Yellow Roadsport going south, thanks for the wave Duncan

There is a brake warning that comes on for handbrake and level, an engine management light, and I think the third is alternator charging. There is no oil warning light, which is why I'm in the process of fitting one. Duncan