DJ.

If it's working and it isn't noisy, I wouldn't worry Mine makes more noise than I'd like, but I'm not sure I can be bothered to get Caterham to exchange it ☹️ Duncan

I put copper slip on the threads, and then undersealed all over the stays and bolts to try and stop that. I hope you never have to touch them, but 5 minutes with a dremel should do it Duncan

CC bond the wings to the stays but self builders get this kit instead That's interesting, I'm surprised the car can get through IVA without the wings bolted. I used plastic bolts on the rear wings and Caterham charged me for replacing them with metal ones to get it through the test. Duncan

The previous comments are correct, there are fixings for all 4 wings. My reason for posting is I've used the pack, and it worked well. The front wings are drilled, foam strip placed in the stays and then the dome head bolts clamp it all together with half a gromit under the bolt head and a nyloc nut under the stay. If the bolt is just tightened enough to slightly compress the foam and gromit, the wings is secured well, but there should be some movement to avoid crazing of the gel coat. Hope this is of interest. Duncan

Thanks Duncan

Does this only apply to the aero style filler? I have the plastic cap from Rover and hope to pick the car up soon. Duncan

I haven't had a chance to drive my Sigma 125 on the road yet, so can't comment personally. ☹️ However, considering Martin Jeffrey reported achieving 41.8mpg in this thread: here I suspect there is something wrong as your driving style seems to have been pretty economical in your other cars! Duncan Edited by - DJ. on 12 Apr 2011 10:12:27

This thread started me thinking about stone protectors. If they look awful after 50 miles without a protective film, do they really serve a purpose? Has anyone tried just applying the protective film straight to the wing and not bothering with the so called protectors? I haven't driven my car on the road yet, so my stainless ones look OK at the moment, but I'm resigned to them being battle scarred very soon 😬 Duncan

That's how the return circuit works! I kept looking at the set up and couldn't see how it could work. In the end I just blindly trusted the manual and installed them, but I'm glad I had the hoses on by then or I'd have been really scratching my head. Duncan

What a pain, sorry to hear that ☹️ Do you think there's any chance it could come out with the oil if you just take the sump plug out, or you might be able to gently scrape around the bottom of the sump with a bit of wire. Duncan

I used self adhesive velcro 20mm wide by 5m long was £11.99 from C&H fabrics. I've had to remove a couple of bits and so far the velcro has separated easily letting me replace the carpet with minimal hassle Duncan Edited by - DJ. on 26 Feb 2011 14:43:55

Great news, thanks for that it will be good for builders to have a copy before they start Duncan

I'm glad you got home OK I'm no expert, but it may be the cable is about to break and is sticking. Assuming it's not hydraulic of course, I've never owned a Golf.

I'm not sure what to do either, I asked Sean and he said use the semi synthetic supplied in the first fill kit. It did cross my mind that if I use something other than what Caterham recommend and the engine expires in the first year they will use it as an excuse. As regards oil consumption, I have now had three Citroens from new and they all ran semi synthetic from the start with the first oil change at a year. None of them have needed topping up at all in our annual 8000miles (ish). Also when I had a Civic type R they recommended semi synthetic for the first 20,000 miles to "let it run in" and then onto fully synthetic after that. I did have to top that up occasionally but at 7800rpm it's bound to use some oil

I've sent the PDF to Jason, Rattie, Andy, and three others who e-mailed me. Alan, sevenmad, Mark and Tony, can you e-mail me please? I can't figure out how to add attachments through blatmail ☹️

I've just found out the correct way to run the headlight wires with the new headlight brackets. Unfortunately I'm not far off finishing the build and I had to remove the anti roll bar brackets and the wishbone bolt to get access. I thought I'd share this, because my manual (December 2010) doesn't cover this yet and it is now much easier to fit the headlights at the same time as installing the front upper wishbones. To pass the IVA test it is important top install a gromit in the hole just above the front upper wishbone mounting point (another one is needed as the wires enter the tube). Once the headlight bracket and wishbone are installed it is very difficult to do this. It is also very difficult to run the wires through the headlight support tube and get them through this gromit. I have an IVA update PDF from Caterham that shows pictures of this and several other useful points that I was unaware of. If anyone wants me to send them a copy, just e-mail me. Duncan

I've bought plastic bolts from Caterham, they should prevent any corrosion problems, and might help a little in reducing accident damage ( I used to use them to attach model aircraft wings and they work well but need a bit of a jolt to break, so probably don't work so well in a low speed accident). Duncan

The 5 speed box has a taller top gear, but I should think it would be cheaper to alter the diff ratio. Most people seems to prefer the six speed, so I should keep that Anyway, let's wait for the experts. Duncan Some pictures of my build: here

I wish I'd seen that before I went the Dinitrol route. However, I'm starting to like the "poo brown" colour, and at least it's easy to spot bits I've missed 😬

Just out of interest, why do Caterham put the carpet on them? My brother has a car with tillets in plain glass fibre, and I find them much better than the carpeted ones that came with my kit. Some pictures of my build: here

Glad to hear it's OK Duncan Some pictures of my build: here

Good luck, hope it starts soon Duncan

Well spotted Jason, that's the plug from the oil pressure sender that I was trying to connect to the loom. I've phoned Sean at Caterham and the loom connector is now routed down into the front of the transmission tunnel. The wiring diagram is out of date, as it is shown coming out near the oil temperature cables. This is why the cable attached to the sender is so long now. Thanks for the tips on the extra battery/earth cables, I had 5 and need only 3. As I'm new to this I tend to assume I'm doing something wrong rather than it being over supply from Caterham. Duncan

I do prefer the stripe to go right from front to back which ever type of car it is on. I can see the point about the spare covering it though. Duncan Some pictures of my build: here

Sorry about these dumb questions, but I've tried searching here and google. I'm building an S3 Sigma 125. First, the manual says to connect a black wire to the oil pressure sender on the left side of the block. The wiring diagram show a cable with a ring connector on the end. Well I can't find the cable, and the sender doesn't have a bolt on connector, it has a long cable with 3 wires and a round plug on the end. I can't find any matching socket. Should I use this plug? And can anyone give me a better idea of where the black wire comes out of the loom? Second, I have 2 red battery cables, and three black (the shorter one is attached to the engine mounts). The manual only seems to mention one red cable from the battery to the starter motor, but both of mine are too short to reach the positive battery terminal. I plan to attach one of the black cables to the bell housing and negative battery terminal, but is there another one somewhere or have I been given a spare? Thanks in advance for any help Duncan Some pictures of my build: here Edited by - DJ. on 7 Jan 2011 13:14:25