DJ.
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Everything posted by DJ.
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Thanks It'll be much easier to be able to move the car as well as the hoist if necessary. To cap it all the roof is low too, so it was going to be tight installing the engine high up on stands. I've ordered the same as you Martin, 125 Roadsport in yellow. Nothing fancy (only options are the composite seats and harnesses), but it should be good fun and quick enough for the 98% road use I'm planning. Nice to hear yours is going well, the only problem with forums is you mostly hear the bad news. I'm already expecting a noisy diff, leaking brake calipers and the clutch release bearing to fail!
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My kit is due to arrive later this month. I've read the guide a couple of times and looked at some build diaries (thanks to those who've posted these ). I have very little space available, and I think it will be easier to get the car moveable before installing the engine. Are there any drawbacks to installing the diff and rear suspension before the engine/gearbox? I know I have to get the prop shaft in before the diff, but assume I can just rest this in the transmission tunnel until the engine goes in. I think I've read that the prop won't go in from the front in an S3, is that correct? Thanks in advance. Duncan
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I didn't have any beading on the aluminium tube, and had no leaks for 5 years. Just use good quality jubilee clips
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When I built a Westfield in 1990, I used aluminium tube for the main radiator hose, and didn't have any problems for the 5 years I owned it. The antifreeze should protect it like the aluminium engine parts.
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I asked Dominic at Caterham that question. They had an academy car with the adjustable metal plate adjusted right up behind the headrest of the Tillet seat. Like you say it's fine when wearing a helmet as it will provide the energy absorption. However, without a helmet the drivers head will hit straight onto a steel supported hard suface. I would seem sensible to cover the headrest with some sort of expanded polystyrene/foam padding when not wearing a helmet. I decided to buy the standard roll cage, because I won't be on circuit very often and the FIA bar has the tubing very close to the driver and passengers heads.
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Excellent, had a good laugh at that. 😬 My favourite is the cable that goes "To center of the sun"
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It amazes me that this area isn't blanked off when Caterham build the cars. I've seen some good tips on how to prevent this on Blatchat, and plan to copy them when my chassis arrives
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That's a kind offer Duncan
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Brilliant 😬 Edited by - DJ. on 30 Sep 2010 20:52:29
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I'm no expert, but my brother has a Fisher Fury with a roll bar that is too low. However, is has a bolt on hump for the drivers side that raises it to a safe level. I don't know if this is a standard option or a custom job, but it should be cheaper than a new bar and although he doesn't use a hood, it looks like this could be removed quickly for road use and allow a standard hood to be used most of the time.
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This is an interesting thread, I'd never considered that :) Just out of interest, do you think the standard braked car might not be able to lock its wheels in this ultra high grip situation?
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Thanks for the replies everyone
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Thanks that's good to know When I first ran a crossflow powered car on track, it transferred all its oil into the breather catch tank. Where as my Elan Sprint was quite happy on track days.
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Do the Academy cars have any modifications to suit the engine to track use? I'm assuming they wouldn't have dry sumps!
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Hope you don't mind me asking, but where did you get the good diff from, and were Caterham OK about you returning their one for a refund? I'm waiting for my kit, and after all the trouble people are reporting, I've been considering getting the diff checked over even before fitting it! ☹️
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I'm still waiting for my Roadsport 125 at the moment (getting very impatient!), and I was just wondering if the standard engine is OK for track day use. I'm not wanting to go really fast, it would just be for fun with standard tyres. So would you recommend any changes to prevent engine problems or are they up to this sort of use without any modification? Thanks for your advice
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I live close to the sea, and everything in my garage rusts like it's going out of fashion. In a carcoon I could leave the car over winter and the brake discs were shiny, left in the garage they were red with rust in 2 weeks ☹️
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That sounds a good idea. How did you get the zip fitted into the end?
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I'm looking into this at the moment. I have had a carcoon for years, but it is a real pain having to zip it up each time I want to get the car out. I see that Airchamber do a drive in version which would be much more convenient and isn't much more expensive: http://www.airflow-uk.co.uk/Car-Airchamber-Sportscar.html For the size you mention, it'll be fine for length, but the width is only just bigger than an S3 and you'd have to be very accurate placing the car on the base. I've seen adverts for a drive in carcoon, but there aren't any details on their site so I've e-mailed them. I hope this is of interest Duncan
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It all depends on what you want. I suspect you already know the answer and are going to go for the 175. It would be a shame to end up selling or upgrading after a short time. I assume you've driven cars with both engines. Are you plannig to upgrade the wheels and tyres? I think 185s are fine for adjustabilty with the small engine, but with duratec torque, I think you'll be wanting stickier tyres. I've ordered a 125, but I've owned a Lotus Elan sprint with a standard engine on 155 tyres and never wanted to upgrade it. I'm just the sort of person who enjoys exploring the limits of a car however slow it is. If you crave the excitement of very rapid acceleration you'll want the 2 litre :)
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I hope you get it sorted soon. It must be very frustrating ☹️
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Brilliant I'm glad it went well for you!
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In my limited experience of Ford differentials, the nut is used to adjust the backlash and won't affect the oil seal. Shame you're having so much trouble ☹️
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Thanks for the reply :) That's a good idea to start with the pressure you want and let them down. It saves starting the first run on noticeably under inflated tyres. I was just surprised to see them talking about tyres pressures 9 psi above the usually quoted figure. I used to add 8 psi to the tyres on my elan sprint for the track, but with 80 section tyres it was more to stop the car squirming and keep the tyres on the rims than to alter handling balance Duncan
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I just had to ask about this I know that Avon ZV3s aren't rated much on here, and it seems most people consider 18 psi a good starting point on tyre pressures. As I'm sure many of you will have read this months Evo magazine, what do you think about the 27 psi pressure they were trying at the ring? I know the tyres were warm, but this seems radically different.
